Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted April 2, 2018 Discuss away! Feel free to critique, it's my first major swap & advice is always welcome! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheepers 13,733 Report post Posted April 2, 2018 good choice of engine. is it going to be manual or auto? tbh they're way, way better as a manual. also what are you doing with the carb of your old M? (assuming it had one that is) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted April 3, 2018 I was originally thinking I'd have to go auto due to the cost of W5x boxes. Although after doing some digging it looks like getting the auto going would be a pig due to requiring the separate TCU which is missing, and I think I may have found a cheap RX60 Cressida that is running ether a W55 or 57, should find out soon. Carb is long gone I'm afraid! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beaver 6,418 Report post Posted April 9, 2018 Have you offered up the rx30 brake pedal next to the throttle pedal and clutch pedal in the car and confirmed it needs that kink in it? The brake pedal from the auto will be further across from factory I would think, so may not fit the clutch pedal next to it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted April 9, 2018 The cressida brake pedal sits a little bit more to the left than the original, putting it a bit too close to the clutch. It also has the master cylinder pushrod mount hole about 5 mm lower, which puts a bit of an ugly load on the pushrod unfortunately. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted April 9, 2018 Actually, you're quite right. The Cressida brake pedal is a much nicer fit with a slight tweak to the clutch pedal. Cheers! I'll see what I can do to tidy up the pushrod. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kirk28 472 Report post Posted April 10, 2018 Does the Cressida manual box fit in the crown without modifying the tunnel? I thought the shifter position was different to that in the crowns? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted April 10, 2018 Not sure yet. It looked close, but I'm waiting to get the 1uz to w bellhousing to confirm how far out its going to be. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yowzer 22,377 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 Your AC compressor will be a computer controlled variable displacement type. Best bet is to replace it with a constant displacement, and fit a R134a spec pressure switch for it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted April 15, 2018 Do you know if the solenoid that controls it's displacement is pulse width modulated or a simple on/off deal? Ether way sounds like a constant displacement pump would be easier. Cheers for that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yowzer 22,377 Report post Posted April 16, 2018 PWM I'm pretty sure. You could build an Arduino controller for it if you were game enough, but then you'd have to scope an operating system to get the control right. There should be a CD model of the same dimensions that'll bolt in its place which will be much simpler. If you can, replace the factory condenser with a modern parallel flow unit, the old style are pretty average with r134a. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted April 16, 2018 Awesome, great to know thanks. I'll start keeping an eye out at the wreckers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheepers 13,733 Report post Posted April 16, 2018 mine is just triggered on with a relay. only need to trigger the clutch and it goes. i dont need any fancy pants rubbish. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hot Dog Flavoured Water 18,009 Report post Posted June 28, 2018 Note on engine mounting. You may be aware but if not: The UZS130 1uz was mounted on a slight angle to clear the steering box compared to others. Hence the auto bell housings labeled U2. So you might get lucky with the engine mounts but depends on bell housing etc. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted June 28, 2018 Interesting, didn't know that. Cheers! So if I need to keep the same slight angle in this chassis it might be better to use the U2 bell housing cut/welded or with an adapter plate, rather than the NZ Automotive complete bell housing? Thanks for the heads up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheepers 13,733 Report post Posted September 6, 2018 I can't believe something designed for a 4cyl can happily take an 8. it can't, and won't for very long. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KP_wag 345 Report post Posted September 7, 2018 Loving the project man, rad yer wee fella is getting involved Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted September 7, 2018 Cheers man, it's a blast having him as keen as I am. Lots of good memories for him hopefully. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bluebear01 338 Report post Posted September 10, 2018 On 07/09/2018 at 11:23, sheepers said: it can't, and won't for very long. Bugger! Have you had bad experiences with them? If it does go pop what would you recommend as a better fit? Cheers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sheepers 13,733 Report post Posted September 10, 2018 Yea you'll find pretty much everyone that's strapped a uz to the front of a W55-8 has had the same result. Especially in a heavy car like a crown. Second gear, or possibly third will Chernobyl at some point. R154 is your boy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
