Bluebear01

Bluebears01's '83 Toyota Crown

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good choice of engine.

is it going to be manual or auto?

tbh they're way, way better as a manual.

also what are you doing with the carb of your old M? (assuming it had one that is) 

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I was originally thinking I'd  have to go auto due to the cost of W5x boxes. Although after doing some digging it looks like getting the auto going would be a pig due to requiring the separate TCU which is missing, and I think I may have found a cheap RX60 Cressida that is running ether a W55 or 57, should find out soon.

Carb is long gone I'm afraid!

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Have you offered up the rx30 brake pedal next to the throttle pedal and clutch pedal in the car and confirmed it needs that kink in it? The brake pedal from the auto will be further across from factory I would think, so may not fit the clutch pedal next to it.

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The cressida brake pedal sits a little bit more to the left than the original, putting it a bit too close to the clutch. It also has the master cylinder pushrod mount hole about 5 mm lower, which puts a bit of an ugly load on the pushrod unfortunately.

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Actually, you're quite right. The Cressida brake pedal is a much nicer fit with a slight tweak to the clutch pedal. Cheers! I'll see what I can do to tidy up the pushrod.image.thumb.jpeg.6e6f2bf4fe1fb099ab9be2e84cf5b8b6.jpeg

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Does the Cressida manual box fit in the crown without modifying the tunnel? I thought the shifter position was different to that in the crowns?

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Your AC compressor will be a computer controlled variable displacement type. Best bet is to replace it with a constant displacement, and fit a R134a spec pressure switch for it.

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Do you know if the solenoid that controls it's displacement is pulse width modulated or a simple on/off deal? Ether way sounds like a constant displacement pump would be easier. Cheers for that.

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PWM I'm pretty sure. You could build an Arduino controller for it if you were game enough, but then you'd have to scope an operating system to get the control right. 

There should be a CD model of the same dimensions that'll bolt in its place which will be much simpler.

If you can, replace the factory condenser with a modern parallel flow unit, the old style are pretty average with r134a.

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mine is just triggered on with a relay. only need to trigger the clutch and it goes. i dont need any fancy pants rubbish.

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Note on engine mounting.  You may be aware but if not:

The UZS130 1uz was mounted on a slight angle to clear the steering box compared to others.  Hence the auto bell housings labeled U2.

So you might get lucky with the engine mounts but depends on bell housing etc.

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Interesting, didn't know that. Cheers! So if I need to keep the same slight angle in this chassis it might be better to use the U2 bell housing cut/welded or with an adapter plate, rather than the NZ Automotive complete bell housing? Thanks for the heads up.

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On 07/09/2018 at 11:23, sheepers said:

 

it can't, and won't for very long.

Bugger! Have you had bad experiences with them? If it does go pop what would you recommend as a better fit? Cheers.

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Yea you'll find pretty much everyone that's strapped a uz to the front of a W55-8 has had the same result. Especially in a heavy car like a crown. 

Second gear, or possibly third will Chernobyl at some point. 

R154 is your boy. 

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