azzurro Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 CD66 If you dont like them, ill take them to the dump for ya 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted May 19, 2021 Author Share Posted May 19, 2021 @azzurro can you speak to the effects of running wider tyres on a 125? I realise with 1,634,210 wheel/tyre combos at your disposal it might prove a challenge to recall meaningful data, but please try... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 Option 2 for looks, 3 for size. Either of those is better than 1 for the car IMO. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 the tyres ive got are 195/60 13s, or 185/55 14s but ive never really drove it standard/ unlowered which is i think 165/80 13 or similar? All my rims are fairly weak offset too. unless you are track daying it i dont think it will really matter too much, the wider track from new rims will feel more planted and a bit more effort to turn at low speeds, and can feel tracky/tramlining if you dont get the alignment right. Your going to lower it too, right? Right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted May 19, 2021 Author Share Posted May 19, 2021 30 minutes ago, azzurro said: the tyres ive got are 195/60 13s, or 185/55 14s but ive never really drove it standard/ unlowered which is i think 165/80 13 or similar? All my rims are fairly weak offset too. unless you are track daying it i dont think it will really matter too much, the wider track from new rims will feel more planted and a bit more effort to turn at low speeds, and can feel tracky/tramlining if you dont get the alignment right. Your going to lower it too, right? Right? Stock is 175sr13 which I believe is equivalent to 175/80 (some say it’s 82). This is an even larger diameter than the 185/70 it’s currently running. 205/60s will make me 6% slower for the same rpm compared to factory. Yes, I would like to get it lower, but not too low. 125T ish stance looks spot on I reckon. Can’t remember what springs you ended up using. Wasn’t it estima or something? Mid engine supercar version or fwd? edit: according to my calculations your 13s are 8.1% slow and your 14s are 9% slow compared to stock size. Also those aren’t exactly common tyre sizes are they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 3 hours ago, Sunbeam said: Stock is 175sr13 which I believe is equivalent to 175/80 (some say it’s 82). This is an even larger diameter than the 185/70 it’s currently running. 205/60s will make me 6% slower for the same rpm compared to factory. Yes, I would like to get it lower, but not too low. 125T ish stance looks spot on I reckon. Can’t remember what springs you ended up using. Wasn’t it estima or something? Mid engine supercar version or fwd? edit: according to my calculations your 13s are 8.1% slow and your 14s are 9% slow compared to stock size. Also those aren’t exactly common tyre sizes are they? thats a funny way of saying 8.1%-9% better acceleration the 185/55 14s are uncommon, the 13s were common as muck, they may be 185s too, maybe? Front were Rear springs from (i think??) the FWD version, as in my mind the springs were very easy to pop out of their sockets from the wide selection at PAP. Still needed 2 coils dropped off. Rear springs on my sedan are reset 2 or 3 inches lower (? cant recall) and is pretty soft as a result, but has new Koni yellow up front (softest setting) and 2nd hand koni red in the rear (hardest setting) and it drives very well. Couple of 125 racers said you want the rear soft for traction. - truck as 3 leaves and they are stiff as feck, but that has the spring pack think put in upside down which may be a slightly better approach to maintain the same spring rate but also get lower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted May 20, 2021 Author Share Posted May 20, 2021 I was wrong. I had a measure up in the shed of the spare wheel. The offset is actually 29. Therefore the CD66 at 7 inches wide with a 10 offset are going to sit 45mm wider. Now I’m not so sure they’ll fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epoxy124 Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 Hi I've got a 125 with some US CD66 replica wheels that have been on for a couple of years. https://autoricambi.us/cd-66-style-wheels-15-x-7-set-of-4/ They are 15x7 and 23 offset. Fit perfectly, very snug at the rear which is just how I like it, no rubbing but wouldnt want to be any wider track there. No issues at the front either. With 205/50 15's the steering etc is very similar to the 185/70 13's that were originally on it prior to mods, of course the suspension is lower, stiffer etc now so apples to oranges. The track width is a bit wider but wheel centrelines not much different to original, maybe a cm or two wider. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 @epoxy124 more 125 content please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted May 27, 2021 Author Share Posted May 27, 2021 Thanks for chipping in @epoxy124! I have seen the 15 inch versions are available in different offset. Can we see some more pics of the car please. I’d like to see a shot of the whole car, you don’t see many fiats with 15 inch rims. I think a fat 13 suits the car, but I’d like to see yours! ps. Are you running with or without the factory “spacers” Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epoxy124 Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 The back has the standard steel spacer plates on, and the front doesnt - the brake disc hats are a bit thicker than the originals, pretty much exactly the same as the original + factory spacer. :) I put them on before lowering the car and it did look a bit like a square roller skate. I'd like to try something like a 15x7 Rota Shakotan but $$$ 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted May 28, 2021 Author Share Posted May 28, 2021 That’s a nice, straight looking car. Think it should have its own thread. Nudge. Personally I prefer the look of the 13 inch CD66, but certainly you have given me an alternative to consider if I can’t make em fit. +1 on those rotas too. Lovely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 those castor rod nuts were tight as feck on all mine too The design of the valence means you cant get a rattle gun on there either. I think i used a nut splitter on at least one of mine in the end 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted July 7, 2021 Share Posted July 7, 2021 thrust rods for all the boys. I may have a spare one? Ill let you know in a week or so 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted July 7, 2021 Author Share Posted July 7, 2021 15 minutes ago, azzurro said: thrust rods for all the boys. I may have a spare one? Ill let you know in a week or so Chur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Im no engine guy, but that bottom end and pcv suggests its got lots of blow by to me, and or run (not just sat) without regular oil changes. Maybe lots of short runs and long sitting could do it?. OTOH The outside (clean yellow zinc plating on the inlet studs?) and coolant passages look pretty clean. Hows the cam boxes look - blackened and burned like the sump or clean alloy? These engines are pretty stout, but if you dont want to take off the head, then just clean out the gunk, and slap it back together with some fresh gaskets and paint and keep an eye out for another engine to build. At least it runs-ish? I would probably also whip the head off too, just to inspect and clean those grody valves up, and replace the stem seals - a full gasket set is only ~$100. Then give it a proper italian tune up and the gummy rings will probably bed right back in 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 For the price of the gasket set, i'd pull the rest down especially that you already have it on the bench, eyeball the bores and journals, clean up whats easy then put it back together. They're bloody tough little motors, but at least you'll confirm everything is in one piece ready for a hearty Italian tune. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 I do have a full gasket set in stock. The cam boxes aren’t too bad. It ran like a champion, no nasty noises, went hard for what it is etc. but yes, she does breathe a little. I was a little shocked at how clean the studs were and how easily everything has come apart so far, but it only has 72k miles on the clock. You’re probably both right, while it’s out of the hole etc…may as well do core plugs too! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 @azzurro, you’re the man with the manual, what size are the core plugs on these things? Chur. measurometer says 40(ish)mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azzurro Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 None of the books are particularly useful with consumable part dimensions, but the notes on this page from the Catalogi di Parti Ricambio say 40mm? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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