Tender Raisin Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Alright so i have a 1983 Toyota Mk ii corona with a 1g-eu....auto. 1st problem-Starting. Around a month ago my car just decided not to start (wouldn't even attempt to turn over)...Starter contacts got a freshen up and i thought all was good. But it still occasionally will not turn even if warm? are there any tips or tricks any one knows or what could fix my problem or had something similar before. On one occasion on my way to Toyota Fest a few weeks back, I had been driving for 2 hours pulled over for 5 minutes... went to start it...didn't turn over... gave it a minute tried again and started first go? (car was in park haha) 2nd problem-ticking / knocking So i will let this video explain my problem. So it started ticking occasionally 2 months ago then started ticking more often.... re-done the oil put in 20-50, and drove 1000ks in one weekend (from Christchurch to Cromwell and back for Toyota Fest) without any ticking (I have only driven it 2500ks over the last 10 months)....after that weekend it started ticking again. This is the worst it has been so far. So anything i should really check? Is it rooted and should i just give up on it and start a project build thread and find a 1g-ge and manual conversion haha? Any help is appreciated, Thanks Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 check power to and earths to the starter check to see if its binding up, possibly the spring needs lubing, does the starter solenoid make a noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tender Raisin Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 There usually is a whine as the key is being turned in that area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 as for the ticking, where does it sound like its coming from? head, exhaust gasket, front of engine etc? do you really need oil that thick? its probably increasing the noise because it will take so long to warm up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tender Raisin Posted April 10, 2016 Author Share Posted April 10, 2016 not easy to distinguish where exactly its coming from more mid and rear of the engine close to the top near rocker cover... its a bit of a cunt as its echoing off everything... Why 20-50, thought it would be worth a crack to see if thicker oil would help....thought it did during the drive to Cromwell.... but im back to square 1. Im no motor expert so i wouldn't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Take a long screwdriver and press it against the engine and the big end against your ear. You should be able to locate where the noise is coming from After confirming that I would go ahead and check the valve clearances it's probably that (possibly it's really gummed up under the rocker cover with old oil if it's had poor maintenance in the past) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Re the oil. It would sound OK once it's hot on a long drive but will be too thick for the engine (I don't have ven use that thick in my 70year old flatheads) Better to put in the recommended stuff Does the car have an oil pressure gauge? Edit again: anyone want to chime in if these have hydraulic lifters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBlades Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 These engines tick but usually go away once warm, mines pretty bad to, you can buy this stuff called mbl8, Chuck it in when you do a oil change and make sure you follow the instructions, it helps with the ticking. Hydraulic lifters in these to and are quite expensive to replace, not worth it imo. These are just rubbish engines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tender Raisin Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 Re the oil. It would sound OK once it's hot on a long drive but will be too thick for the engine Better to put in the recommended stuff Any-one know the recommended oil off the top of their head? as for oil gauge i will check tonight. These engines tick but usually go away once warm, mines pretty bad to, you can buy this stuff called mbl8. These are just rubbish engines Yeah I was going to try that stuff next but thought i would ask here first before going straight to the temporary fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 with the lifters, if they are not pumping up correctly you want to check that the oil pump is getting up enough pressure, that the pick up isnt blocked with crap, and that the system is cleaned. of course check everything else first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tender Raisin Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 So Hydraulic lifters confirmed as culprit...haven't checked the oil pump yet though, it could also be apart of the problem. So the next step is dealing with the problem haha....Should i: a) use an engine oil flush or something along those lines to try and clean it up a bit inside and through in new oil (drop the oil thickness) and mix in some mbl8. See if that makes a differance and for how long.... b. so someone mentioned to me bleeding hydraulic lifters... has anyone done it? does it fix the problem? or is it just a waste of time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch.W Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 every 1geu ever has noisy lifters. most people just deal with it hahahh. will still run for ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tender Raisin Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 every 1geu ever has noisy lifters. most people just deal with it hahahh. will still run for ever. Yea haha i know they all tick but just lts just been getting louder and louder, and when you can hear it over your standard speakers it becomes a tad frustrating sitting in traffic with it echoing off the car next to you . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBlades Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 I must say yours is pretty loud. Oil change and mbl8 will help if your daily driving. Mine stopped ticking for a couple of weeks then came back, but I was hardly driving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 bleeding them would be a waste of time most likely, you would be balls deep in having to try clean any shit out of them etc personal experience with g motors they don't like not being serviced and tend to cake up with oil oil flushes scare the shit out of me as that generally blocks up your oil pump pick up more than anything maybe try running a diesel oil 15w-40 for a bit with some mbl8 and do an oil change 1000km later 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beachlander Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 Unless you're like Cheees and have never changed the oil in his. If he did it would probably implode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE25 Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 1g-eu manual says: Use API grade SC, SD, SE, SF or better and recommended viscosity oil. Gives a chart for recommended viscosity vs atmospheric temperture. mega frozen balls to 10'C use 5W-30. but dont. -22'C up to 30'C you could use 10-30W. 10W-40, 10W-50 starts at -22'C ish up above 38'C 15W-40, 20W-40, 20W-50 starts at -12'C ish up above 38'C. seems 15W-40 is about the sweet spot for NZ temps. oil pressure (warm) at idle speed .. more than 0.3kg/cm2 4.3psi 29kPa at 3000rpm ... 2.5 - 5.0 kg/cm2 36 - 71psi 245 - 490kPa says when bleeding lifters, dont pull them apart. gives leak down test specs.. 20kg takes 2 -7 seconds/1mm after the first 2mm. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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