Gator Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51888-gators-1982-kp-starlet-4age/?p=1658889 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Looking good man. If the car doesn't start until you let go of the key, then it wouldn't surprise me if they got the feed for the coils from the normal 12v feed, but that turns off during cranking, so you'll have to find a better feed for that... You would normally run a couple new relays driven by the ECU that get fed by the fuel pump signal (on when the car is running and starting) and use that to power the fuel pump and the ignition (and injectors if you had them) and then another relay to drive the fan from the ECU as well. Didn't you say the ECU doesn't have a temperature input hooked up? You should hook it up. The temperature is one of the more important inputs to the ECU. I'm not actually 100% sure if it adjusts timing with temperature so maybe its not actually important unless its supplying fuel as well... Maybe ask a 4A guru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Cheers Ned. The hyperpak seems like the silver Billet in the situation. Will chuck it in and see how she goes. I have a wide band air fuel gauge too so I can play with the carbs and get the best out of her Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobClubley Posted February 13, 2016 Share Posted February 13, 2016 Looking good so far. You can come and help me with the wiring on my Audi once you've practiced on yours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 can vouch for hyperpack on 4age. so easy, never failed, went from a rats-nest loom to 4 wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 thanks man. im very looking forward to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 nice score was this the one for sale in the RWD toyota page on facebook? good project to start from looking forward to the updates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 nice score was this the one for sale in the RWD toyota page on facebook? good project to start from looking forward to the updates yes it was on there for about 2 months I was desperatly trying to get rid of my subaru eventually dropped the bottom out of the price just to get this. great starting point I reckon too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneo Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Looking good Gumboot looming is it going to be ready ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 I dont see why not I have 1 month 2 weeks 2 days and 1 hour (but whos counting) only need to finish the rewire. install the wide band new suspension maybe new wheels and tyres new seats (Possibly) put car back together and do some road tuning HEAPS OF TIME read the final of the mission pask the other night its a good one. cant wait to do it in an old school 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 As mentioned in the build thread. car has failed a wof and they have listed Improve front brake effort. should I just to pads and skim ect or should I go the whole hog and rebuilt the booster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 I would start with a decent bleed and check pads and rotors for wear etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLIZZO Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 you mentioned your tuner suggested DHLA40's were too big, I suggest your tuner didn't quite mean that or he doesn't know whadeestalkinabeet. Most 1600s that run a twin sidedraught setup will run twin 40s to provide room for engine modifications. The size of the carb (40-45) means nothing other than what main venture (choke) size it can run. a DHLA40 can take a maximum of a 36mm choke, whereas a DHLA45 can take up to a 40mm choke. A 1600 engine that makes peak power a 7500 rpm should run around a 34-40mm choke. A typical BDA choke for a 1600 would be 38mm for track and 36mm for rally. Maybe yours is choked a bit too big so is losing port velocity down low. Id suggest taking it to a decent carb tuner with a dyno and getting them set up right, it could make a world of difference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 you mentioned your tuner suggested DHLA40's were too big, I suggest your tuner didn't quite mean that or he doesn't know whadeestalkinabeet. Most 1600s that run a twin sidedraught setup will run twin 40s to provide room for engine modifications. The size of the carb (40-45) means nothing other than what main venture (choke) size it can run. a DHLA40 can take a maximum of a 36mm choke, whereas a DHLA45 can take up to a 40mm choke. A 1600 engine that makes peak power a 7500 rpm should run around a 34-40mm choke. A typical BDA choke for a 1600 would be 38mm for track and 36mm for rally. Maybe yours is choked a bit too big so is losing port velocity down low. Id suggest taking it to a decent carb tuner with a dyno and getting them set up right, it could make a world of difference. mine are 45mm . he suggested 40mm and he knows what he is doing he normally messes with escorts and such but lets be real a 4age is just a bda ford motor refined but your information is exactly what I have found time and time again thank you. and as for a proper tuner Im waiting till i have the cash to swap to 40mm one then a tuner with a dyno will be the best way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLIZZO Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Sorry I just don't understand why you want to swap for a 40mm carb, it will do nothing, absolutely zero, except limit you if you ever want to do engine mods. It is the choke size that matters not the carb size, you can run a 1300cc pushrod K series on 45s just fine, it just requires 30-32mm chokes. Swapping a good set of 45s for an unknown (unless the are brand new) set of 40s is just going to potentially give you a sore wallet. Just get the 45s jetted and choked accordingly, they will be mint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLIZZO Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 The 40 / 45mm is just the body size of the carb and defines what size chokes you can run, it is the chokes that determine flow / airspeed, theoretically you could run a 600cc engine on twin 45s if you had chokes small enough 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 ah cool thanks. I will investigate choke sizes further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneo Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I'm sure I have some smaller chokes around for those carbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLIZZO Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 what size chokes is it running now gator? i would have thought 34mm would be ideal for a stockish roady 4age, 36mm for a cammed / ported one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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