My name is Russell Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 1988 Pajero 4D56 turbo with 5 Speed Manuel Is tight into 1st gear and makes a crunch into reverse ever second time. Doesn't seem so bad when the box is warm. Have just bleed the slave and seems about the same, pedal is a little bit spongy and slow to return to top when bleeding. Going up and down gears is fine once moving, have just done 3000+Kms, apparently its had this issue for a long time. So is this likely to be the syncros? Clutch? Master / Slave cylinder? Thanks Oldschool knowledge bank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Replaced the gearbox oil recently? If not - do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Have read what you said but sounds to me clutch is not fully disengaging. Possibly not bleed properly ? Or faulty / leaking clutch slave or master cyl 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Replaced the gearbox oil recently?If not - do it. Unsure on history, only picked up car 3 weeks ago. but that's a good idea. Would that be a possibly fix or preventative? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I would be looking at clutch hydraulics if the pedal is only coming up slowly and is spongey. Or it could be the pivot ball worn down as it seems to happen often - you can shim it out with a washer to fix. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Have read what you said but sounds to me clutch is not fully disengaging. Possibly not bleed properly ? Or faulty / leaking clutch slave or master cyl Ok thanks R100, one join does look to have a slight seepage that i didn't think would matter to much? (I think anyway, can't be 100% sure with the way these motors are so good at sending oil all over the place) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 I would be pulling out the clutch master and slave and tear apart at least looking at the seal and bore condition. You should be able to get new seal kits pretty easily and cheaply - it's always fixed any clutch hydraulic issues I've had. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 I would be looking at clutch hydraulics if the pedal is only coming up slowly and is spongey. Or it could be the pivot ball worn down as it seems to happen often - you can shim it out with a washer to fix. Thanks Fuel. Can you get to pivot by removing slave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Pivot is inside the bellhousing. Yes changing oil is a good fix - especially if it has the wrong oil in it. Does the clutch pedal return slowly even when the system is bled up and the nipples are closed? Also could be pushrod length adjustment which is easy. What car man? I could take a look on Wednesday if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Pivot is inside the bellhousing. Yes changing oil is a good fix - especially if it has the wrong oil in it. Does the clutch pedal return slowly even when the system is bled up and the nipples are closed? Also could be pushrod length adjustment which is easy. What car man? I could take a look on Wednesday if you want. Ah yup, so a little tricky to get too pivot Ok cheers KK, I will check oil level and give it an oil change. Its more so just returning slowly when bleeding (kept going down and staying on the floor even, I presumed this was from letting to much fluid out at once, as doing smaller strokes stoked this), not that spungy once locked up just ever so slightly, unsure of myself now might even just be different to what I'm used too. Pushrod length looks fixed on this one? Or could the adjustment be at master end? Is this thing that tooted at you the other day getting lots of blank stares, people not recognizing me in it. Thanks for advice so far will investigate more in daylight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 When bleeding the clutch pedal - it will be lucky to return at all - there is no grunty return spring like there is on a brake pedal. So I wouldn't take a slow returning clutch pedal when bleeding as anything at all. Ignore that. Takes 2 people to properly bleed the clutch. Person 1 pumps the clutch pedal as many times as it takes to get a pedal feel then hold the pedal down to the floor and wait. Person 2 releases the bleed nipple and drains the fluid into a half full bleed bottle looking for air bubbles coming out the tube into the liquid then nips the nipple back up again. Back to person 1 and repeat until no more air is coming out of the clutch slave into the bottle. Pushrod adjustment will probably be at the clevis attached to the clutch pedal. When replacing the gearbox oil then make sure you get the right stuff (RTFM) or you could be just back at square one and $50 down the tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Castrol and Valvoline recommend a 75W80 GL4 oil, which is what Mitsu recommends for most of their FWD/transverse gearboxes. I was sure you could use a GL5 oil in the older longitudinal type boxes. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 To me it sounds like old oil and synchros . But clutch hydraulics will do that too but they tend to happen all the time, not just when cold . Could also be a combonation . KK will suss it for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Lol nothing wrong with a tight box 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 To me it sounds like old oil and synchros . But clutch hydraulics will do that too but they tend to happen all the time, not just when cold . Could also be a combonation . KK will suss it for you My initial thoughts was synchros, because you can get it into second gear, give the truck a little move forward and it will pop straight into 1st smooth as butter. As if it prefers the new alignment. When rolling up to an intersection, if you slowly put pressure into 1st as rolling up to an intersection it will pop in. Should have mentioned above earlier but forgot to re type it after loosing the first effort at making this post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Fucked synchros will often show the problem at all temps. Wrong oil mimics the symptoms of bad synchros until it warms up and the tolerances and oil thickness become less of an issue so the problem goes away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 And reverse gear doesn't have a synchro. Change your oil. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 CHAIR! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Are you sure it's not just russhole driving a manual being the issue. Ha I'm funny. Good luck bye. gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fengqiu Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Sounds a little bit like wrong oil. As it heats up the viscosity increases and lubricates everything. If it does turn out to be synchros after you change the oil you should save the oil change the synchro then put the oil back in. No point wasting good oil! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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