Roman Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 What is your starlet going to do / going to be for? 6 or 8kg is fecking stiff for a rear spring for a street car or track car of that size/weight I reckon. My car is bigger and heavier than yours, but everyone told me to start at about those rates.(TRD AE86 springs are 8kg front 6kg rear, so seemed like a good starting point) Ended up lowering spring rates 3 different times and picked up stability, and speed each time. and lowered laptimes by a big margin. Ended up about 3.5kg in the rear and probably 6 or so in the front.With the hard springs, under braking any tiny bump in the track would cause wheels to lock up because the car bounced. And cutting over ripple strips (the most fun thing about trackdays) was impossible.It was scary and not very fast! But it depends on what you're wanting to do, drift cars generally seem to run much harder springs all round... I'm guessing these are what the TRD springs etc with the high rates are designed for.Or if you're running 13s or 14s with a big sidewall on the tires then maybe it's a bit nicer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 6-8kg rear is too hard for kp. im only running 250lb (about 4.5kg) and 275lb front (5kg) which is pretty stiff. tried a few different springs. found that running the rear rates close to the front handled the best/gave the best feel, due to the lack of rear swaybar traction brackets are good. long as they relocate the link to the correct location. if you drop the bottom link too far it will start to rollsteer. (when you push it though a corner, the diff will toe out and make the ass end loose) i have a range of holes in mine, if you look in my thread pretty sure there is a picture, the bottom hole is good for drag. 2nd hole from bottom is the sweet spot for corners. which is only 25mm further up 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Have you played around with fitting a rear swaybar or not, on any of your cars KPR? I've got the option to fit one on mine. On one hand though the current feel of the car doesnt seem to need or want one. But on the other hand quite a few live axle cars of the era came with one. the GT Celica I got my diff from had a swaybar from factory. But all of these cars had very soft springs to start with.If you've increased the spring stiffness you get more roll resistance anyway... And the roll centre distance to CoG reduces when you lower the car a bit too. So seems like it becomes redundant anyway. I guess I should just bolt it up and see haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 6 and 8kg will be awful in a KP. Kris' spring rates feel bang on, even on the street I find it pretty liveable even though it is stiff. Roman you are right as far as spring stiffness goes contributing to roll stiffness in the back of the KP - I have found I can't get a soft enough spring (65mm ID coilover springs we're talking here) that's short enough to allow my chosen ride height (and mine's not even that low) if I was to use a swaybar anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AGEMAD Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Will be used for mainly drift. Coilovers are for an ae86 hence the higher spring rates. 8kg fronts/6kg rears btw. Will be doing more r&d once shes going. Im sure there will be a few things that I wont like but wont know till then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 You've seen kpr drift his right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AGEMAD Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Yes I have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AGEMAD Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Tried getting lower spring rates but mrp can only do lower fronts not rears.. Would it be advisable to have near 6kg springs all round similar to what you have done kpr or try for even lower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 The point of coilovers is usually that they use a generic sized spring. So you can usually just find the measurements and then get generic coilover springs in whatever rate you want.A coilover setup that uses an oddball sized spring diameter probably isnt a good choice when you're likely going to tinkering with it as you go. but if you can only buy the kit with 6kg then yeah it's a more useful starting point than 8! Speak with some local spring shops and see what diameter coilover springs they can get and how much for. Then see if this matches the size used in the package you are getting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AGEMAD Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 With the setup im using in the rear, its the same setup as factory but adjustable height shock and coil perch. So the spring sits flat on one end and normal at the other. ONCE the crack tester gets their a into g ill chat to a few spring specialists and see what they can do. As for the front ill go with what you say and start off at 6kg's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 your effective spring rate will be slightly different than mine. with yours being in the stock location more inboard. will have less resistance to roll than mine. but harder when the whole rear squats. so 6kg probably isn't so bad for drift and your setup. Don't quote me on it, but remember reading somewhere, that the old jap kp race series cars used to run very similar rates to what im running. with the closely matched front/rear combo. its possibly where i got the idea from. Haven't tried a rear swaybar on mine. its also still running the factory front bar. Its been running the same spring shock combo pretty much for the start, after a few spring and shock swaps. Over the years doing things to the front,like adding a lot of caster over factory (kp's have near none) camber, front track etc.. It gained alot of front end grip so would oversteer everywhere. rather than tone the front down or play with swaybars, thats when i modded the diff, added camber and an a slight bit of toe in. (was toeing out) made a huge difference and somehow matched the front grip pretty much spot on. to the point you notice in a big way, if running different brand tyres front to back. so yeah cool story bro. im not sure if there is anything to gain messing with swaybars. but you would have to do both ends on a already neutral setup not to induce over or understeer back in the day i got my coilover springs from stocks they did/do 25lb increments and good range of diameter and length. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AGEMAD Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Good point, ill have it 6/6 and see how it goes. Ive also herd that fitting a rear sway bar to kp's induces oversteer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4AGEMAD Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 good news, Techno Toy Tuning have come out with a rose joint/nolethane bush link setup option https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/kp61/bushed-4-links-te72-corolla Down side theyre bloody expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 those arms are choice ^ I built this jig to prove no bind with rose joints. now to put the leafs back in my hilux 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Hummmm wonder if I can buy the bushed ends separate if rose joints prove dumb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 You can just make your own ends from appropriate steel tube and threaded rod to suit urethane or rubber bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 That would require me to buy a welder, learn how to use it and spend money on making fuck ups and remaking etc etc. It's much cheaper to buy them I imagine 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderwebfx Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Hummmm wonder if I can buy the bushed ends separate if rose joints prove dumb I'm wondering the same thing to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 you can buy them on summitracing but they are all quite large as they are generally designed for 4wd suspension. so big wide bushes and 3/4" threaded ends 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/art-90001953/overview/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.