maxted Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Been thinking of using a hydraulic throw out bearing to ditch the clutch fork and save cutting my firewall / tunnel, anyone had any experiences with them? Easy enough to set up? Seen a few different ones on trademe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Subscribed...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 The Tilton one was what I chose as it had a 'return to retracted' feature. It was easy to set up wrt distance from the 'back' of the bellhousing, but I had to turn up a sleeve to get the input shaft nose big enough to stop the slip on Tilton unit tilting and jamming. I was using a Quartermaster clutch I never actually drove th car after that so perhaps it was shit... but I think it would have been choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I have some photgrahps at work. I'll put one up tomorrow if I can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Mondeo ones work well and get used a lot in Lotus 7's. cheap too. I think Saab use the same one but don't quote me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 The difficulty i had was sorting the pressure plate to release bearing diameter and profile, I have not plumbed up the unit yet so no idea if it works. You also need to consider how easy it will be to mount the hrb in the gearbox and plumbing with braided or solid lines to keep pedal feel solid... these are some pics in my mazda build thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxted Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 have been recommended this off trademe heres there spiel This is a universal cylinder that can be used instead of a fork and standard release bearing setup. This kit comes with a remote braided hose kit. We can sell without if needed. The bore of this CSC are designed to work with American transmissions such as Saginaw, T-10, Muncie and Jerico 1.379"/35mm but can be used on Japanese Gearboxes which they are commonly used for - Toyota R154- W Series, Nissan RB20/ 25 etc however these units come with a standard flat face bearing and are designed to run on rolled tip diaphragms pressure plates commonly found on Ford and Chev V8 engines so if you want to run them on a normal flat diaphragm pressure plate you must change the bearing to one with a radius we can supply these. Failure to do this will cause this unit to essentially push the diaphragm out of the pressure plate and put loading on your crank- so please be careful matching the correct bearing to your appilcation. This unit slips over the output shaft snout and comes with spacers so the unit can be setup to correct height. Also comes with studs to secure unit from moving although are imperial. Unit compressed height is 1.688/42.8mm to a max of 2.375" /60.3mm giving a max 17.4mm of travel. It's recommend that you run a 3/4" master cylinder. a friend has used one in a hilux with a uz1 and w55 and said it worked really well, he said he spaced it off the bell housing using the provided spacers but used a 5/8" master cylinder. mjrstar- couldn't find your mazda build thread? did come across another thread about these bearings from last year with a couple of pics, seems they are quite popular in the stock cars, just a bit of work in working out set-up, definitely worth while if saves hacking up firewall and allowing mounting motor further back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 yup pretty easy to set up... takes a fair bit of measuring... engine bellhousing flange to the contact point on the pressure plate. then set the bearing up so that you will have a couple of mm free play, i usually set it at about 2mm give or take.. do this by measuring the engine flange face on the bellhousing back to the face of the release bearing, pack it out as needed.. do it in its retracted state.. the tilton units like the above pic are the better ones for this job.. plus you can buy seals and shims off the shelf.. i sourced mine for $250 delivered... when you fit it, take off the bleed nipple off the release bearing and replace it with a remote bleeder....just an extra hose that comes out of the bellhousing with the bleed nipple on the end...some people do cock up and leave the nipple in the factory location and cant bleed it without pulling the box off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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