BlownCorona Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 3v wire is white. AC stuff is pink and yellow. I need an air filter pipe thing too. I notice a lack of low down power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horse25 Posted August 19, 2012 Share Posted August 19, 2012 just connect it into the yellow somewhere with a switch on it, and with the x2 front a rear on it will make them brighter. Doesn't help on dons bike that the carb intake is facing forward haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 Mint easy fix. And mine faces foward too haha, i really want a velocity stack if it doesnt mess it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 Also valiant, i will check out the thread and get back to you on that one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 the thread for this adjuster is 13.75mm wide and had 20 threads per inch. i think this translates to m14x1.25? i will pm valiant and see if im in luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted August 21, 2012 Share Posted August 21, 2012 I'll look after smoko. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Valiant kindly helped out with a helicoil, but unfortunatly, i got the thread wrong, (didnt use a helicoil though) assumed it would be metric, but it looks to be a 9/16th unf, after me and valiants boss ran a die down it. and after an hour or so on the phone, i couldnt find anyone that had one, and only 1 person that had a kit for sale.. at 200+ bucks. so i went in to work to try my lat resort, being a Permatex thread repair epoxy kit, it came out a bit average, but currently, the bolt is in, holding tight and not leaking( and removable, but i dont intend on doing so. so hopefully, its as the box describes, and perminant! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Did Stu say he was my boss? Lying cunt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hahaha no. I just guessed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 ignore all and any colours on dons bike, his stator has been rewired at some point hence the headache i had wiring it up. but also i may have swapped the stator over for the one on the donor bike so there is a 50% chance those wires mean nothing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 i see. well the wires described seem to line up correctly, however i think ive blown both the headlamps, wired it up again today and got nothing, then checked resistance accross them and it was infinite, will pull them appart tomorow and confirm, otherwise its pretty much done, cut the velocity stack out of an old c50 intake tube thing, would love an old filter sock to go over it. it has a slight miss sometimes, any ideas? might just need a good hot run, or a plug clean now that its going right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 the 'blown' lights issue just turned out to be poor earthing, so i made up some proper earth straps, and i have both tail and headlights, will have brake once i install the switch and get a bulb thats not got a blown brake however, when ever i turn the lights on, the bike will only last about 30 seconds at best before the electricity is all drained and it looses spark and dies. is this a case of wiring in the lighting supply from the engine wrong? cause when i add it into the white wire the lights dont get brighter, and it doesnt help with the cutting out. i now notice that horse said to connect to the yellow wire, being the AC side, when i wired it up i thought it wouldnt matter which side it went into. or should i be wiring it up to the battery (DC) side? or is my battery just really fucked (i know its really crap, but i thought the engine should be able to sustain itself or else it would drain even a good battery?) anyway a few pics. and i also modified another shifter, suited for the rear pegs, turns the shift pattern into 1 down 2 up, which is more normal i think, its still really weird that you have go go back through N to get to 2nd gear though keen to rubber wrap the peg though, i can see it hurting my foot on a long ride, and need to rubber the foot pegs cause they are kinda slipery. need to get some of that nice wire wrap stuff too, after its been painted. which will happen as soon as i sort the lights out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horse25 Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 What colour is your wire from the engine? is it white? If you go back to the wiring diagram you can see that the head lights are run off the battery. Also if the wire is white it looks like it gets connect into the yellow wire from the engine when the lighting switch is turned on to boost that circuit. You can run this bike without a battery it just means that it would blow your bulbs all the time as it not regulated like Sam said. Battery acts as a regulator, you will blow the lamps other wise But looking at the diagram again its hard to tell what is switched to what in the "headlight switch block" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 sorry, forgot to mention the lights are now run from the battery, it just seems like i needs a boost to the chargeing system when they are on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 yes it goes to the yellow when switched. link to large image - http://i574.photobucket.com/albums/ss18 ... /c90zz.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horse25 Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 yeah that white wire should do that, what's it like with just one head lamp running? two might be too much? what's the voltage across the battery when they are both on and its running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 will have to check it out tomorrow, i guess i could have been too greedy on the headlamps, they were either 25w or 35w bulbs, will wire it up properly and see how it goes from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 28, 2012 Author Share Posted August 28, 2012 turns out i was just too greedy on the headlights, 70 watts is too much, runs fine with one lamp wired up, and ill get some lower wattage bulbs for it, maybe even LED? they are like 1.5w so i decided to strip the whole bike down and paint it, spur of the moment decided to go with a really dark metallic green i had, but my portable sprayer thing decided it would melt everything plastic, so gutted. went to work to get a rockwell sprayer to replace it, BIGGEST PIECE OF SHIT EVER, it sort of just sneezes the paint on. so ill decided if i like the green or want to go back to my trusty maroon, and then find someone to lend me a proper compressor and paint it up nice. will get pics of the green frame for opinions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 sanded back the frame and had another go with the sprayer and got it going pretty good now, got basecoat and clearcoat down today quite nicely, will probably wet sand it on a few weeks (or what is it that you do to clearcoat to make it nice and smooth and polished?) but either way im happy and its going to get thrashed anyway so its alllll good. a few pics of the bare frame, its got heaps of metalic in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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