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Flibois moped cafe racer


BlownCorona

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havnt had the time to even start the bike up, but i have seen 428 chains and sprockets on trademe for fuck all. cant i just get that stuff? count the links and re drill sprocket if required.

also glenn, ive found some rather interesting information on the net about the LT50s, massive restricter plates in the intake tract and hidden 2psd gearboxs etc..

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the 'restrictor' in the intake is actually a diffuser and requires many more tweaks to get gains from its removal

anyway, back to the chains.

you want to order the oe honda front sprocket and a decent length chain then find a rear 428 sprocket with the same pcd and bore size as the v50, its the same as car wheels there located on the hub not the bolts which its why its better to go to a shop (for the rear sprocket atleast) where you can get a better match then a guessing game on the internet

you also get what you pay for with chains, cheap ones will stretch much faster than a good one (but you dont need a fancy gold racing chain like gail)

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already got an OE spec front sprocket brand new, engine never had one so had to get one orders, so thats all go.

and yeah all the measurements seem to be on trademe so a mission with the verniers was gonna be my go. was also gonna get a nice midrange chain, but ideally just want it going for the time being, the chain sounds like a machine gun when you open the gas at the moment, not keen to ride haha,

will chuck up a photo of the rear sprocket once i pull it off, pretty amazing how fucked its gotten,

RE. glenns quad, probably wont be doing any modifying to it cause he doesn't own it, but should go nicer with a good clean out. perhaps check on the oil mixer/premix quantities.

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  • 2 weeks later...

ordered a new chain, in the process of finding a sprocket to suit.

just set my points again and took it for a ride and its running pretty damn good some times, but some points it will bog down and still don't really know why.

it doesn't seem to like me opening the throttle all the way at once but does respond well for the most part opening slowly, and it will usually rev out quite well.

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DEVELOPMENTS!

so after hearing everyone say that it was weird my bike needed a battery to run, i was fucking around with the bike today, and if i rev it up to about 2500rpm and turn the battery supply off IT KEEPS RUNNING.

and it runs fucking amazing like that. with none of the above issues what so ever it seems, so i hooked up a volt gauge to the rectifiers output, and it kicking out 18 volts!

however when the revs drop the voltage drops, and when you get to about 2500 rpm the bike just dies, so i assume the rectifier isnt outputting enough for the coil to maintain ignition.

when i have the battery supply on, and the rectifier feeding the battery, the coil off the battery aswell. the output from the rectifier only reads about 7 volts, and the above issues are present, which now seem to be electrical and not fuel like i was chasing

my question is, and i must have something wired wrong, how am i meant to wire this thing up to take advantage of the large amount of power the engine can supply for spark, but still having the battery to supply enough spark for when the engine int reving up much. if that makes sense?

looking at the wiring diagram for a c90, i thought i had it wired correctly rectifier feeding the battery, and everything coming off the battery, but this clearly displays that there is potential for this thing to run much much battery, it reved out more than i have ever seen it. i think i saw 7k on the tach

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ive got a rectifier from a more modern honda scooter on there at the moment. kicking out 18v seemed pretty efficient to me?

why is it that the battery stops the majority of that voltage, is there a way that i can siphon off enough to keep the battery fresh, and use the full amount to run the coil when its running faster

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well i may have been wrong, took it out for another blat, to compare between battery on and off. and they seem pretty much the same, and its running quite well with the battery on now, still very sluggish in top gear/low revs, but that may be due to wrong gearing, and the fucked chain and sprocket.

have correct parts on their way, new chain, and a 45 tooth rear sprocket that should give a healthy dose of acceleration, and since i ride with alot of 50s, and its regod as a 50, doing 100kmh isnt ideal, id rather get to 70kmh stupid fast and do better skids.

edit: now that ive got a compressor ill give the carb a proper blow out, fit the good driveline and see whats up.

im also planning on building a rolling road for testing in my backyard, so that should be fun/fuck my neighbors off big time.

does anyone know how hard it would be to turn it into an actual dyno? im guessing very hard/expensive.

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fair enough. just dont jb weld up important internal components, someone did that to mine, lasted about 2 years and then totally fucked everything haha.

keenly awaiting my new driveline, im certain having a chain thats actually flexible is going to make vast improvements, aswell as the bigger rear sprocket to shave off some top speed and add more acceleration/burnout power

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received a good chain from trademe and a larger rear sproket from trevor peirce yamaha, i think its a dt125 sprocket from memory.

absolutly love the new gear ratio, it pulls harder than a school boy but still has great top speed.

im now certain that something is weird with the charge system, because it does run shit with the battery running in the system, and runs awesome when i turn the battery off, and just the rectifier runs the coil. though it wont make enough power at low rpm to support idleing.

so i may grad a new rectifier, rookie also said they were a regulator? though i thought the battery was the regulator.

anything else it could be??

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It will definitely have a regulator as well, or at least it should. The thing with these old bikes is that the regulator and rectifier are pretty old tech compared to modern solid state stuff so it is well worth the upgrade, they are also heaps smaller.

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I have upgraded to a solid state unit.

From a Honda nq50 I believe. Its not a new item.

This unit kicks out about 18volts when the battery is removed from the equation, but only about 7 when its charging the battery. Which seems to lead to the poor running.

Is a new unit likely to help? Might get one anyway so its not a doubt

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