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FAILED RECHECK: Sticky right rear drum brake - Mitsi L300


efp0wa

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Morning guys,

My van failed WoF for a sticky right rear brake (and a few other things but they have been sorted).

The wheel can be turned by hand but its difficult to turn and when driven I can hear a squeak.

I'm not very clued up on drum brakes. Should I overhaul the rear brakes? or Replace the wheel cylinder? or Is there an adjustment I can make?

Thanks in advance, am hoping to get this sorted tomorrow so would like to try and get any parts required today.

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if someone's adjsuted the handbrake byu adjusting the cable then this could be the cause. back the brakes off and remove the drum and havbe a look. it sounds like it could also be a sticky rear wheel cylinder.

if you've gone somewhere that's put it over the brake rollers then it might be worth throwing a new pair of cylinders on as well as new shoes, otherwise getting the brake balance right might be quite a mission if it's cooked the linings due to the dragging.

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Take the wheel off, and take drum off, then where will be a little horizontal adjustment thingy which pushes the break shoes apart/together.

Sometimes there will be a little bolt holding the drum housing on, most of the time it is missing. Undo this (if there) and then slide drum housing off (make sure handbrake is off and you can spin wheel!). Usually it will take a bit of hitting with a hammer before you can get it off. Then all will make sense.

Only really need to overhaul brakes if the cylinder is leaking, or the shoes are too worn (i.e down to almost the metal), or if you are a perfectionist.

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I had the drum off a few months ago and the shoes had a lot of meat left on them, I do recall now that the cylinder was a bit gammy. The van has been sitting since then apart from being driven for its WoF check

I can get another wheel cylinder for $23 at the local brake shop, think I may get that and give it a shot. What do you guys reckon?

P.S. I adjusted the handbrake before the WoF at the actually handbrake but not underneath the vehicle...

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It turns out I may be a muppet when working with leading/trailing drum brake setups on mitsi l300 vans.

I am confused about a couple of things.

The adjuster needs to be backed off before drum removal correct? But these brakes are auto adjusting so when do they have a adjusted that can be tampered with from the slot in the backing plate?

Does the handbrake not adjust these automatically? I always thought there was just the single hand brake adjustment directly at the handbrake, but now I'm guessing there is also one where the cable goes to the splitter, should I have been letting that adjuster off and not the one at the hand brake?

Oh I also purchased a new wheel cylinder ($23 from ripco) as the rubber boots were shagged.

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I got the drum off on Sunday, it was a cunt, I thought I had realeased pressure but still had a prick of a time; shoes didnt retract and didn't want to let go of the drum. I had to use a puller.

Broke 2 pins and clips (which I have new ones to replace).

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I knew I shouldve taken a photo, I can't figure out how the handbrake string fits on to the arm.

I've searched google and can't find hardly any decent pics as to what i need to see.

How the Fuck does this spring connect? Has anybody got a pic? I really don't want to have to pull the drum off the other side to check.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/41/sam0059n.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/sam0060d.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/34/sam0061w.jpg/

I've tried multiple combinations, even the gf tried. The shit gregorys manual doesn't show jack shit!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I replaced the right rear wheel cylinder as it has split boots and a new one was only $23.

Put it all back together, bled it all up.

Failed wof recheck yesterday, the left rear was braking twice as much as the right; the stupid wof guy claimed he could feel the right side dragging still (IMO he is full of shit).

What have I done wrong? It's difficult not having a brake test machine when working on drum brakes.

I have a new left hand wheel cylinder to put in aswell now.

When I reinstall the adjuster, should I wind it all the way in? I wish I could find a step by step tutorial on the net for adjustment one all parts are installed....

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OK if your wheel cyl was leaking it may have contaminated the shoes. this will have stuffed em.

You may be ok by hitting the shoe with brakekleen then a blow torch. Do the same to your drum.

Leave the LH wheel cylinder alone, it appears to be fine.

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Ok, I have no issue buying new shoes. They're $60 at super cheap or $81 at Repco.

I will return that left hand wheel cylinder. Get some new shoes, get the drum skimmed then get it back together.

I'm going to take it to garage that I trust (Richmond Auto Center for the reference) that does wofs, to get the wof and if it fails after i've done those things Ill get them to check it out and make necessary adjustments.

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