Jump to content

77Magnum13hundy's 4age+t Magnum discussion


Recommended Posts

OK its going, I got it timed 10 btdc, and then it would go for 10 sec then die. So i disconnected the map sensor and its running on the limp mode map. Im not sure if my maps even the right one, but all i know is i got in and went up the road for a bit of a drive. Yeah!!! hard part over, just need to sort out the map side of things i guess.

Also I put back in my 220cc injectors and fitted an adjustable fpr for setting the fuel side of things. At 40 it was black smoke slightly/too fukn rich coming out so set it back to 28 and not so bad. The last thing i want is to lean it out. But sorting that map out im sure will help. Can anyone shed any light / advice regarding this issue and whats going on? Cheers, oh If you know someone with a GT starlet turbd and its wrecked hit them up for the map sensor (4efte) cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 173
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

need to know more about your setup, then can probably help. sorry if i missed it somewhere.

sounds like your using the standard ecu, then using map sensor & bigger injector trick? can work okish

fuel doesn't matter so much re blowing up an engine, as most people think. ignition timing is what will break it. i suggest you back the timing off to start with. factory 10 degree base will be far too aggressive for a turbo setup. set it to 0 in diagnostic mode. and go from there. or can run it in diagnostic mode, which will lock the timing to a flat number.

/ buy a link

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your looking to run a 4efte MAP sensor then they seem to work best with the 4efte 295cc injectors too.

To get it running properly I'd just stick to everything stock to start with ie MAP sensor, injectors, regulator etc. Fang around like that off boost to make sure its all working as it should. As a suggestion (you may already be - havent checked all the photos) , why dont you run the stock regulator off the fuel rail then tee the aftermarket reg into the return. That way it only steps in when you come on boost but all the cruise/idle stuff runs spot on as factory.

Yeah the old diag mode on 4age ecu trick works, locks the timing and you can then even run a pot off the water temp sensor to fool the ecu into dumping more fuel for boost. Trick is to stop the stock ecu seeing boost else the who shebang will go up the hootanany and then you'll be scraping willy willys of your whoopsadoopsys...

Holy crap I wanna see this thing doing skids

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah so far it is stock ecu, stock dizzy, stock tps (apparantly), everything else is diff/scrounged from pickys. I was told that 3s maps will work ok for vaccuum side, when it sees 4psi or more it cuts fuel. Made the inlet up and only had the fuel rail to go off. The bluetop inlet manifold had the tvis removed and cut n shut. where the cold start injector went in i took that out and put in the air intake temp sensor cos i heard i dont need the injector for starting. Throttle body is unknown Mikuni like a 67-70mm one. Chucked it on cos it was bigger,could be off a toyota or mitsi, i plumbed in the boost refernce for bov and wastegate before the throttle body in the front end bit of that.

Inijectors are 220cc off a sohc v3000, just some i had lying around. Seemed way too rich at 43psi fuel pressure, so i just need to get that ratio right, Any ideas as to the Air ti fuel ratio and what it should be, its set to rich at the mo, someone sed about 12 is ok... but then i wouldnt know...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12afr is ok under boost. needs to be leaner off boost. 14.5-15.5. best idle probably around 13

map sensor off turbo car will basicly "trick" the ecu to think its running more vacuum than it is. so say at 5psi ecu will still think its on vac. so no cut out. but at the same time will be fueling less. so need bigger injectors to counter this. unless you get super lucky, you will need to fine tune it with something. your fuel pressure reg may, work. or an afc of some type.

tbh not sure if its worth the effort these days. when you can pick up a v4/v5 link for $300. which will be alot more reliable and better power and driveabilty. gonna need to tune it either way

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Good work. With no exhaust and my shitty laptop speakers it sounds loud enough...

Two oil filler caps eh? You expecting trouble? Looks mean- gonna suprise a few people if you keep it looking stock. I'd be painting that intercooler black or even better what ever colour the body will be so hiding it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

less crankcase pressure. they only have 1 standard about 10mm. plus helps them stop spitting oil out the breather. less velocity to drag oil out. and possibly helps the oil issue they have, head filling with oil and pumps oil out breather. quite spectacular on a standard bluetop big rpm for extended time = massive smoke clouds when it fills the intake with oil..

but mostly because you get to join the dual oil filler club.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh what kp sed, head dont drain the oil out quick enough if you fang for ages/do skids greater>5mins so remote catch can will sort out any extra oil.

Still trying to hunt down a standard map sensor for this.... MAy have a link lined up down the track would be sweet. I am not going to make this a sleeper, or paint the IC the same colour at the mo, we will see how it looks after, keen on some sort of front lip tho to tie it in...

Speaking of sleepers my mate got a 78 lancer colt with 4g63t init. Let me go for a drive in it, i creamed myself that thing was insanely fast, i was scared to open her up but it pulls a solid 15psi, weighs less than a tonne. Holy shit! Now that thing is a beast, prob best part of 230-50hp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah- a front lip will be needed. Vivas tend to lift quite a bit at speed and get all floaty. I looking for a front lip too. Tried a Dolomite sprint one and its almost right but not quite. Mk1 golf lip could work but again hard to find here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I may flip the IC in front of radiator and mesh out the front peice to keep it sleepy, just to keep those tings hidden and see peoples faces when boot planted. That would save some drama with people knowing it has turb, and my frenz in blue. God knows they always get their snouts in when they can smell some shit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sweet so managed to track down a couple of map sensors for this engine, kind of hoarding for bits to see if there are differences and if one works better than the other. I just have to bridge out the ecu to set up the timing and run a check engine light so I can see whats flashing. Just bought a house so I have now a meke double garage room for all my crap and the car. I just need to deck it out with tools and a work bench. Will be moving car in there to rip the engine out and start to paint the engine bay. Been reading this nationals stuff sounds like it will be a jolly good show. Will be def keen for the following year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Not much to update really, but thanks to 4age addict i scored a link to get this thing runnin the turbs right. I am pulling the motor out to sort out the sump as its seeping oil slowly out the turbo return after its run , while its out i'l sort the paint in the engine bay and a few other things such as the brake booster needs some additiional strengthining and also make up some braces for the t50 bellhousing. On the hunt for a silvertop and some low comp pistons so i can get another engine built, this will be slwly and on the side. But before i get carried away theres about a grand just there and so i'l be waiting for my tax refund b4 anyting happens.

So yeh cheers to 4AGE_Addict shot for the hook ups...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Update for the month... Have folded the front end out the opposite way to create a lip. Im happy with it but its still needing a tune up before i put some mesh on it.

Have been welding around the engine bay and found that old steel doesnt like to be welded. Before chucking decent heat in there i have been putting a small layer on the top to get the pool hot enough to penetrate the old skin. In some places its thin and rusty and loves to blo thru but the majority is ok as long as you flap disc then wire wheel it all shiney like. Still yet to add the new plate for the brake booster. Will try to weld thru the thin stuff form inside the car as oppose to getting it too hot and blowing thru everything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...