77magnum13hundy Posted April 17, 2011 Author Share Posted April 17, 2011 Yeah NICE HB you have there, does it get to full noise and how is that for ya? Does it wind out to 7800? i see the huge hole cut out but i suppose it had to be done. The results are O-some. Clean as a whistle. My one ive decided to hang it higher and when the pics are up youll see the method im using for my engine mounts, this weekend i had the motor wedged in and the gearbox jacked into place (as one unit) centred the gbox and the front of the engine and marked on the x member where it will need each plate, just looking at it i get the feeling its too simple to work but im taking it down to the engineerin shop this avo they can start work on it. Started to cut n shut my manifold, a steel plate will block the old end off and ive hacked the other side flat for a thick plate for the new throttle body. NOt ready to get the shocks and springs done just yet but yeh thanks for the info, $$$ Cheers for the torana info, thats great to know Q1. Will the Princess 4 pot calipers bolt to original place and still allign with the rotors? Q2. The Victor brakes, what year and what else interchanges? Do i take the whole arm/hub/brake setup and will it bolt up to top and bottom armand to the x member? and whos got them for how $$much$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldturkey Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 I second using LC Torana Springs in the front. Toyota Altezza Springs will work in the front too, but I found them too soft, some heavy race ones might do the trick. I am currently using compressed E36 BMW springs in the rear, E30 will also work. In terms of front shocks, you have a bit of a problem if you want to go REAL low. The standard shocks are some of the shortest production shocks. You can space them out 10mm at the bottom mount and get a bit more out of them. I am currently playing around with the shocks for a Volvo Truck Cab for the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 i see the huge hole cut out but i suppose it had to be done. The results are O-some. Clean as a whistle. Q1. Will the Princess 4 pot calipers bolt to original place and still allign with the rotors? Q2. The Victor brakes, what year and what else interchanges? Do i take the whole arm/hub/brake setup and will it bolt up to top and bottom armand to the x member? and whos got them for how $$much$$ Didn't really need the big hole for doing a 16V but I mocked it up using a 20V and one day will build a turbo 20V engine for it. Gives heaps of clearance for getting engine in and out though. A1: Princess 4 pots will work with 1800 discs, same spacings, but you have to adjust it using a couple of flat washers between the caliper and the mounting point - nothing major. A2: Victor are much like 1800 viva brakes but thicker discs, they are harder to get lower ball joints for, but otherwise bolt up using Victor arms and Viva arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 i think the victor 3.3 discs on mine are 10"- same as hpf firenza. Geoff- Do you know if princess calipers work on them too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 Q. Will i get away with keeping everythin i have HC wise and just remove the hub and bolt on 18 undred rotor and bolt on a caliper or will the hub need to be bigger too? I just want to know if the shopping list will need any hens teeth or not. Dropped off the X member to DML yday sweet 60 bux on the inlet manifold and 80 for the x member (the things i cant do...) Also i had to hack out the top arm mount to get the arm off and the bolt was supaseized, i trimmed down each side and tapped the pipe out they'l just need to weld a new pipe in and clean up the grinders mess, also the old engine mounts i didnt drill them out like any normal person would have I just hacked them off at the right level and will seam them off with some nice welds. PICs to follow Time to get the rolling part sussed, ie brakes and lines and stuff. The grotty old 1800 axle had a steel rod mechanism to actuate the handbrake and i have to retire that part and upgrade to some cable action... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 Q. Will i get away with keeping everythin i have HC wise and just remove the hub and bolt on 18 undred rotor and bolt on a caliper or will the hub need to be bigger too? Not sure TBH never done it myself but may be the same stub axle. Vauxhall were keen on recycling parts between models. Only thing might be the caliper mounts on the back of the upright. Easy enough to swap over the whole upright and leave your arms in place. I just want to know if the shopping list will need any hens teeth or not. No hen's teeth, but lots of rocking horse sh!t... playing with 30-40 year old cars that mostly rusted away 10 years ago can be fun. Luckily most of the bits are still floating around, if not too many whole cars left. The secret is to stockpile bits as they come up on Trademe or wreckers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldscool Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Hey could someone put up pics of their engine mounts for a 4age thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 My 1800 axle handbrake cables were all buggered- rusted through. I used some old viva clutch cables and made up new ones by really carefully building up weld on the ends to form the little balls. Worked a treat. The cable hinging mechanism on top of axle is quite an odd affair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 //oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=26846&start=20 i have some engine mounts on page 2 sitting there, for 3 rib blok not sure if thats what your afta oldschool eddy, yeh i will have to make up something brofessional for that i think... il have to work my way back from drums to wheel cylinders to lines then hbrake... good to see yours firing... i scored 4 weeks off so paid to finish my car so im stoked as... PICs wont be for a while but i plan to upload when possible cos i dont have bband at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 i.ll look for a photo of the setup. I have an exploded diagram of one too i think. Will have a look.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldscool Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Has anyone done anything to the steering system? And do you know how much power the 1800 hundred diffs will handle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 1800 axle will take plenty. well enough for older engines of the day. Droop snoot group in england have a forum and they'll know more as fair few of them race/rally the cars. Fella on vauxhallviva.com forum has fitted a electric power steering system like many escort owners have done. Fits easy as fair bit of room under dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 Front end done just need to suss out short shocks then after gbox mount is done il be able to get measurement for driveshaft, had some good progress so once thats all done itl be wiring fuel and ignition Can anyone honestly tell me if i mix IGN1 and IGN2 for my 4age together even tho they are both batt fed and do different things what would happen, so long as i fuse it somewhere along the lines between the battery and the main relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoBilly Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 just making sure you know that the blue hose in the pic dosn't go from tappet cover to brake booster it need vacum from the inlet im guessin you just got it sitting there well inlet is made but thought i would check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 hmmhmmm yep sure, i knew that ;P its some old compressor hose fits on ther nice for both seperate applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Where did you get the wheels? Looking good. It nice to have it back rolling eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 those are the og ones widened bro, just thinkin about the cost to get them dipped, he he one day right down on the list. And yes having it rolling is gold. I have problems... garage is going, so hopefully i can find a good storage spot out west or a decent tarp (errrh) What is left to do on yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Just need to make another number plate as one is missing plus in the middle of hacking a pod filter apart and shortening it. Waiting for a wideband gauge to arrive as well. Then its cert time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted June 7, 2011 Author Share Posted June 7, 2011 Ok the 4age nutters what do i need to get the gas up front, I was thinkin about reusing the main feed line(original 6mm) to be the return and just run a 8mm rubber hose for the main feed to engine... then run a small surge tank in boot, and pump from there.... Is a commy pump or something else worthy? what kind of fuel pressure is it likely to be less than 40 psi? And a smaller electric fuel pump to prime the surge tank, who has done a cheap comprimise of this? Oh and if anyone is a sparkie out there and can tell me if mixing and joining the IGN1 and IGN2 makes any difference... I would have thought 12vlts is 12 volts but may fuksummit up, one runs the coil side etc and for other stuff cant remeber exactly what its for but yeh ....can i mix them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 In one of my original setups, actually an injected slant 2.3 not a 4AGE, I used a carb lift pump from the original tank pickup into a surge tank in the boot, with a return into the top of the fuel tank - drilled a hole in the sender unit and poked a pipe through. Then did a new steel line to the front and return was the original line, used an old VL commodore pump. Just got 3-4m of steel bundy tube from BNT (like $30 or something) and just laid it next to the original line with some new P-clips. I think you can put both IGN1 and IGN2 together from memory, as you say just 12V, provided you have a good clean source. Had a look at the diagrams I have and none specifically have IGN1 and IGN2 that I can see, there is IG2 and IGN which can go together - one only operates the EFI main relay - depends how much of the original loom you use. You can prune down the loom to only a few non-engine wires required. *Disclaimer - not liable for electrical shit that blows up* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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