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Clunk when turning


coldturkey

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My 1988 Pajero has a clunk when turning corners, or when hitting bumps around corners.

It sounds like a front CV but I dont think it is, because the boots look fine and it doesn't continuously make the noise if I drive around in circles. It only seems to do it once each way I turn.

It only does it while moving, I.e. sitting still and moving the steering wheel lock to lock doesnt do anything.

Any ideas? Have looked for ages and cant see anything obvious

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On my Delica which has a similar setup to Pajeros it was a suspension bush worn out in the lower control arms. It was so worn that basically the wheel alignment settings would change after every bump or moderate corner as it would clunk around - you would notice the steering wheel was pointing straight one moment and then after a clunk the steering wheel wouldn't be straight and you could feel it had altered toe in/out.

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My 1988 Pajero has a clunk when turning corners, or when hitting bumps around corners.

It sounds like a front CV but I dont think it is, because the boots look fine and it doesn't continuously make the noise if I drive around in circles.

The front CV shouldn't be turning if your auto hubs are working.

Fuel is probably right and it is a worn bush or shock. It could possibly be a spring seat too. You will need a huge amount of leverage to deflect a bush enough to make it move in the workshop, so the noisy bit could be very hard to find.

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Is it a grinding/graunching/squeaking noise when full lock?

Quite common to have lockstops worn through their plastic casing and are rubbing metal to metal - easy solution coat all of the lockstops and rubbing blocks in a fingerfull of grease each - you will need to do it regularly - like once a month and after each time you go offroad to stop the noise coming back..

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Mine is a squeaky/clunking noise that only happens once,maybe twice at full lock. Ive had a look and there is zero play in the wheel and i cant see any worn bushes. Its a crown with the factory airbags though so could be quite different coldturkeys problem

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As fuel said, it has torsion bars up front so its not a spring seat.

It doesnt squeak - just goes clunk once or twice when im turning, and its not necessarily at full lock.

Not lockstops, not springs/springseats.

Whole truck kinda twitches when it happens.

This is a late 80's mark 1 2.5TD, but i've also got a '93 mark 2 2.8TD and yes, it hauls ass. I find it crap to use on open road driving though (might be the manual box ratios).

The front CV shouldn't be turning if your auto hubs are working.

Well im not actually sure, I can turn the front wheels by hand when its jacked up - they seem to spin independently of the CVs, but I cant spin the CVs. Which doesnt really make sense but meh.

The 4WD and difflock definately works, tried going round in circles on ashphalt in 4wd and couldnt get it to clunk but it was skidding its wheels so didnt try for very long.

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The front CV shouldn't be turning if your auto hubs are working.

Well im not actually sure, I can turn the front wheels by hand when its jacked up - they seem to spin independently of the CVs, but I cant spin the CVs..

When you are trying to turn the CVs by hand, you are trying to turn the diff, driveshaft and transfer case internals (if one or both wheels are still on the ground).

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it's the damn bushes - it's a common fault for them. Get a breaker bar and socket on the lower control arm bolts where they meet the chassis, they are eliptical for setting the camber/castor, on mine with the fucked bushes you could turn that bolt to the point where it would change the alignment even after it was as tight as a mofo.

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I had a similar clunk when turning right in my evo when pushing hard. It was the lower left balljoint throughbolt which was not tight enough to stop the balljoint from sliding up/down slightly..

The issue with the evo is that it is not a tapered balljoint on the bottom of the hub, just a straight sliding fit which is clamped with a through bolt.

It took a while to track down also but the "jack it up and lever all joins" method revealed the problem.

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it's the damn bushes - it's a common fault for them. Get a breaker bar and socket on the lower control arm bolts where they meet the chassis, they are eliptical for setting the camber/castor, on mine with the fucked bushes you could turn that bolt to the point where it would change the alignment even after it was as tight as a mofo.

Thanks fuel. I will definately give this a go and report back.

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