Demand for RWD Mitsi V6 6A10, 11, 12 and 13 engines

[fuel]

in this picture guess which block is which, one is a 6G72 the other is a 6A12:

also in this pic guess which rods and pistons belong to which, one is 6A12 twin turbo the other is 6G72:

[R100]

I just can't help but feel you didn't take into account any information before purchasing the engine.

To be honest i dont know jack shit really about mitsubishi engines. I guess the main thing that made me decide on doing the 6Ax engines was because they look cool.

I only payed $450 for my 6A10 engine so its not going to break the bank.

I mite go back tomorro and buy a 6Gx engine aswell. One thing i will tell you about me is that im very very impatient. When i want something i want it NOW even if it means paying more for something.

Can you tell me why mitsubishi made 2 varients of a V6 engine ?

Did the 6Gx series supersead the 6A engines or where they produced along side each other ?

Cheers

[fuel]

The 6G series were their first series which made its debut in 1986 - so they resemble their other engines of the same era ie the 4G63 with thick rods, large crank journals, larger cylinder heads, big ports and only two bolt mains. The main downfall of the 6G series is their oiling system, but that was all fixed on the 1993+ four bolt mains blocks and the MIVEC blocks (which are still two bolt mains). These engines were mounted both transversely and longitudinally so the water pipe and water pump arrangement is able to be swapped around between the two if need be.

The 6A series came out in 1992 (same era as 4G92, 4G93 which it shares features with) and has a closed off valley and deeper block skirt for extra strength, however the crankshaft journals are smaller in diameter and the rods are pencil thin (ie the rods are the same between the 6A10 140hp 1600cc through to the 6A12 240hp 2L twin turbo, while the 6A13 rods are similar in thickness but the crank journal is bigger). They are a four bolt mains block which is a bonus, but makes no difference if the pencil thin rods are going to give out over 300-350hp anyway. The 6A series were only ever mounted transversely, so there's no points on the block for RWD mounts to attach to unlike the 6G, and there's no factory RWD water pipe or thermostat housing arrangement to use.

There's also a newer 6B series engine but they're still quite new and aren't popping up cheap yet, but they are only SOHC and are designed to be an economy engine rather than provide outright power.

So the 6G is indeed older design engine but they are still being made today in 3.8 6G75 form whereas the 6A series had a relatively short run.

If you had to get a 6G and wanted to stay N/A, grab an engine from an F31A Diamante MIVEC 30M, these make 270hp and 300Nm and you can pick up whole complete engine with ECU/loom etc for under $500 if you look hard enough - my one cost a grand total of $360 and I was able to sell the ECUs for $150.

[lowlancer]

Basically, phil just wanted you to go 6G so he can sort out his gearbox woes

Any updates on the Eterna front Dr Phil?

[fuel]

well basically I'm only saying this because I went through the whole process myself. I don't know if you recall but I had a 6A12 MIVEC Galant as a daily driver, of which I rebuilt the engine in pretty much twice (long story..) but I absolutely loved the MIVEC high revving engine, the noise it made and how the V6 looked.

While I had the 6A12 out of my Galant out on an engine stand all built up, I seriously considered putting it back into the Eterna rather than the daily driver Galant as the bodyshell was a bit rough around the edges. I researched it for almost a week trying to find a viable way to do it, but all my enquiries pointed to the 6G series being far far easier to mount in a rwd setup and the 6G has a far better scope for power once you address a few small issues, they come in both twin turbo and MIVEC varieties like the 6A does, and best of yet the engines are cheap as heck to pick up as so many of them were made! If you break an engine, you simply just find a replacement instead of repairing it, that's how cheap the engines are (with exception of GTO 4 bolt mains engines they are super expensive).

I would have loved a 6A12 MIVEC twin turbo in the Eterna, but at the end of the day a 6G72 was far better option. Who knows it may be a different story with a Chevette especially if you're not aiming for much power.

ps, no news on the Eterna front. giz cash injection + motivation pls.

[fuel]

and cause pics paint 1000 words etc

engine about to go back into the Galant, the Eterna in the background:

This is what a non turbo automatic 6A12 did:

on the upside, rebuild parts for a 6A12 are cheaper than a 6G72.

[Spencer]

Basically, phil just wanted you to go 6G so he can sort out his gearbox woes

I think phills reasonably sorted for this? pajero auto bellhousing with an adapter plate to a r154. Probably just needs to bite the bullet and get a r154 and dummy shit up

[fuel]

^^ yeah basically what he said. I just need motivation and cash injection really. When I undertook the project initially I wasn't aware of that option, but it at least is another pro in the 6G camp and another con in the 6A camp.

[R100]

So the main downfall of the 6a series engines over the 6g engines is there strenght when trying to extract more than 300 hp from them ?

[fuel]

yes, but it doesn't take 300hp to make things go pear shaped - all it needs is a run bearing in order for the crown of the piston to make contact with the bottom of the cylinder head and cause stress fatigue and rods bend or snap or pistons shatter.

If you had to find another engine find an FTO MIVEC V6 - should be around the $500 or less mark to pick up and they're alot more fun than the 6A10 - you'll honestly get bored with just 1600cc.

[thegreatestben]

Yep, have a customer who has her little 6a10 powered lancer in at work for her services.

Phil has got your back here for sure.

[lowlancer]

That must have sounded epic when it went Phil^^^

[fuel]

That's how I picked it up (an auto VX-R MIVEC Galant), bought it with a 'seized engine' after it had near $3000 worth of work done two weeks prior for replacement head gaskets, reconditioned heads and new cambelt etc. They must have skimmed too much off the heads which caused a substantial increase in compression which in turn made numbers 3 & 4 big end bearings let go causing the carnage above. I ended up rebuilding the engine and put it in my manual VX-R and put my original engine into the auto one in order to get the car sold as the body was far too good to wreck, which was my original intentions to do.

[R100]

What is the engine codes of the 4 cylinder with the same bellhousing bolt pattern of the 6A. Are the manual flywheels interchangable ?

I have the steel plate that sandwiches between the gearbox and engine from both the 6A and the 6G engines. Will be looking at options for both engines.

[fuel]

4G6x, 4G9x and 4G3x should all share the same basic bellhousing pattern (ie top two bolts, bottom two dowels) but watch for differences in the top two bolts and bottom dowels on the 4G6x series.

[DavidTheCreator]

this thread is making me want to put a 6g in something lol

[mikuni]

this thread is making me want to see/hear a chevette that makes sounds like chewy

[R100]

What can i be told about these gearboxes.

What are they used in ?

From what i think i know is they come from thr L200 and sigma RWD

Are there variations of bellhousing bolt patterns and internal strenghts ?

[fuel]

yeah that's a cable clutch Sigma or L200 box (they have different extension housings but forward of that is the same). They will all be 'narrow-block' so should bolt up to 6A1 series fine. It even has drillings for both widths of the top two bellhousing bolts, watch out as the earlier boxes sometimes don't have that.

[to4garret]

and was given a near complete 6A12TT for free.

You are just lucky that's all