d.p.n.s Posted October 15, 2009 Share Posted October 15, 2009 hi all have been thinking about what i want to do with the rear set up on my van. i dont want to go 4 link as i will be putting the rear seat back in. insted im thinking about the same sort of set up as my old vl commonwhore insted of the leaves. two trailing arms from the bottom off the diff where it would normaly bolt to the leaves and run them to the standard mounting points for the front of the leaves then make some turrets up and bolt coil overs in and run a pan head rod. what do you think? dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 i cant remember what the rear of a vl/vk looks like but whats to stop the diff twisting??? and you could go uneven 4 link and still keep your rear seat... or 2 link where each bar splits into two, one for the bottom and one for the top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 all my vl had was the diff with to bottom trailing arms the springs sat on to the trailing arms to the floor and a pan head rod with shocks at the back of the diff i want to is use a falcon diff with the vl trailing arms and panhead rod but make mounts on the top of the diff to use adjustable coil overs and just make some turrets to suit but maybe with a few moe holes for addedhight adjustment. dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 i found a pic of a vl diff and its got small arm on top off the diff the are mounted to the bottom trailing arms so i could just use the vl bottom arms and weld in some small arms from the top of the diff to the front of the trailing arms maybe? dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 after having another look the top arms dont go anywhere close to the bottom arms they just go to the rear swaybar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 As posted in your other thread. I toyed around the idea of various types of systems to get coilovers in the arse to lower it. In the end I decided that going to coilovers to get low is the wrong reason of going to coilovers and if thats all you want then stick with a decent setup of leaves. A good leaf setup will likely be better than a shit setup/untried link system...If however you want to goto link system/coilovers for handling then you cant go past the normal 4 link system everyone does.. There is a reason everyone does it lol, it works, and works great! If you wanted to keep the seats then you could look into a satchel link system. It is both easier and will allow the seats to be kept. I have a thread about it somewhere as it was what I was going to do. In the end decided 4 link the traditional way was the only real way to get benefits. But hey, whatever you do you will beat me at doing it so please write a how to as you go with measurments Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Also another option is do what someone has mentioned above. One bar/eye coming from the front leaf mount with a threaded end. This will allow both adjustment of legth and an easy replacement part. This will then thread into a ladder bar type setup which is mounted to your diff at both top and bottom with nolothanes. This will stop ya diff twisting and is pretty easy. Was my first design of a system for my car and involves no cutting of floor etc. I even have a .dwg file drawn up somewhere that I did ages ago. Like dissss. Excuse the 5sec paintbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 fuck you have some mean artistic skill there gaz lol ive got nothing to lose by trying anew setup and it might give others a cheaper option if it works out. and if it doesnt work out ill go back to the leaves. cheers dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 ^^ That'd be a nice, easy way to do it after having another look the top arms dont go anywhere close to the bottom arms they just go to the rear swaybar. ^^ That's a 4 link isn't it? Same as my R31 with Borg Warner. You should be able to do a 3 or 4 link system and still fit the seat in there. The arms don't have to be even length. They are quite hard to build and setup though, a lot of people end up with binding 4 links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 Satchel link also means ya can keep seats. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 16, 2009 Share Posted October 16, 2009 if your making turrets anyway then maybe put in IRS/mcpherson strut? none of the options discussed seem easy/cheap at all TBH also its panHARD rod not panhead. yeah I am a pedantic bastard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted October 17, 2009 Author Share Posted October 17, 2009 you know what ive alwasys called it a pan hard rod and some cunt the other day keep correcting me saying it was pan head.........im going to skull fuck him to death Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Panhard was/is a French auto company who invented it. Can't you go Watts instead? Designed by the steam engine man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 I did some calcs and from memory if ya fit a 1m long panhard then you will only get 1.2mm of side to side movement over your 5inches of travel. The nolothanes may even take this slack up? Watts loosk better but Panhrad should be all g and easier. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 that vl pic just looks like a normal uneven 4link setup to me, those top arms must goto the body to stop the twisting force... and yea using one arm that mounts to orginal body mount and splits into two bars on the diff would be the easyist and best for space issues.. i wonder how nad the bind angles would be tho??? watts is good because then you can have adjustablle roll center hmm chucking a whole irs system in there would be quite funny, mad rear camber on your escort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubblegoose Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 i vote irs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 4 link or leafs.....ladder bars/2 link is a waste of time in a road car. turns the rear axle into a giant swing arm, the only side to side movement it has is the flex in the bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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