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Volvo 4 pots onto Escort/Capri - Help


treggo

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$500-00 for just calipers????

I'm hoping mine will be no more than 250 with new discs and rebuilt calipers.

I hear you on the bolt straight on thing though...... But if mine works like I think it wil it should be the cheapest and easiest conversion to date. Also the pads are cheap and easy to get.

Corey

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Its easy as fuck to make a plate to change the bolt holes of a caliper. (Im sure you know this) Just find a caliper that is the right thickness so you dont have to space it and all ya gotta do is make a plate. If this is the case, and you still want Willwoods or similar, then keep an eye out on trademe as second hand sets go cheap sometimes.

Also stub axle thing..

What ya mean exactly? The stub axle sticks out to the outer of the car and the ball joint is on the inner? Im a bit confused as to your problem. Maybe a pic would clarafy it?

I run Capri struts in my mk2 with Sierra bottom arms (swapped right to left) and Sierra sway bar (which is larger, I run it forward facing rather than rear facing as in the Sierra) with modified sway bar points (Kinda tricky plates but I can draw up and they are pretty will be easy for you to make)

Gaz

Edit: I was bored so wrote this viewtopic.php?f=13&t=16235&p=367280#p367280 Will prob help you somewhat.

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the stub axle is nearly 50mm closer to the ball joint......So if I run them with my current springs the ball joints bind :?
if ur asking what i think your asking then the answer is the disc hits the tierod end, beacause the BMW disc is thicker then the solid standard disc, so it sticks in more

Ahh I read 'closer' as 'longer'

I know what you mean Htwn, Chris uysed to have that prob with some discs on his hitting the tierod end just below/on the rubber seal.

That what ya mean slip?

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yup mine used to do that when i had 2.8i Capri vented disks on mk2 struts with Austin princess calipers, the disk would only just touch the tie rod ends rubber ... never came up with a solution so just went back to no non vented disks and had no problems. Have not had break fade yet and just invested in some good quality brake pads.

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from memory wilwood calipers don't have a dust shield boot on the pistons, could run into issues for cert etc.

the powerlite calipers dont have dust seals, but we dont require them here afaik(as in i never had wof problems) and as far as ive read, prroblems are rare, the midlite calipers have them and they arent that much more expensive though

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Gaz, I'm fighting my laptop and printer to get the picture to scan in at the moment lol...

I hate the fucken things when they don't want to do what you click on.

Any way I have access to a parts sierra so I will be trying what you wrote.

Also thanks for sharing the info man I really appreciate it.

What I ment by the way was the GT cortina struts I have have the stub axle(where the hub/wheel bearings fit on to) located 50mm higher up from the balljoint tapper mount hole than the capri ones. Therefore the car should sit 50mm higher with the capri ones...

Which is a common complant with capri owners binding the balljoints when lowering them to much.

Thanks, Corey

PS, Sorry again for the spam.

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mint as a, you got to slide ova stud styles tho not on back of hub. the fit under 15s with a mil or so cleacence.

bewear wheel choice is important for clearnce of spokes. they were dear as fuck tho like 200 each or something.

wos worth it at the time tho as i needed new discs anyway.

they are faster than a cops radar tho!!

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  • 2 months later...

I was never that blown away with my princess/257mm bmw disk set up, but my calipers were not in great condition. I also tried playing around with volvo 4 pots but wasnt happy with the amount of metal left once you filed them out.

Have put together this mazda rx7/bmw 300mm disk set up but not used it on the road yet, I hope they are worth the effort. Though I think I went too big on the disc diameter as they only just scrape under my 15 inch steels. Would need 16 inch alloys to clear them.

standard vs 300mm setup

09-07019.jpg

09-07018.jpg

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