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Injectors


Josh

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^^^ what he said.

a factory boost referenced bosch one > aftermarket

they have much better control, better seat materials/geometry etc.

Quoted for truth. However, OEM ones often don't flow enough with a BIG pump. I have a china one and the only down side is it doesn't hold pressure without the pump... = slightly harder starting when hot theoretically.

Yea pissing out fuel through the return..

Doesn't mean much unless you know the regulator is good. This may be a dumb question, but it DOES have a regulator doesn't it? If so, what type? If not OEM, where is the adjustment set to? If not, there is your problem :-)

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I doubt the injectors are faulty man, it was working mint for me when I gave it to ya.

They don't tend to get dirty just sitting around if they've been in the fuel rail this whole time sealed up. Is the regulator the same one that I gave you or have you changed it?

I would make sure the injectors are actually firing (clicking) as nismo has said cos it sounds like they aren't getting the signal which is a wiring fault

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I doubt the injectors are faulty man, it was working mint for me when I gave it to ya.

They don't tend to get dirty just sitting around if they've been in the fuel rail this whole time sealed up. Is the regulator the same one that I gave you or have you changed it?

I would make sure the injectors are actually firing (clicking) as nismo has said cos it sounds like they aren't getting the signal which is a wiring fault

Yea it's the same regulator as what you gave me. Ok just remembered, when I was first trying to fire it up and it wasn't firing, we pulled the return off and no fuel coming out, pulled the inlet off and fuel pissed out, so thought it must be the regulator. Pulled the regulator off and then put it back on and it had fuel then, possibly it's not letting enough through?

I'm thinking that or wiring. I have no time at the moment to check anything as I'm always working out of town lately but as soon as I do then one of the suggestions made here will work.

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line needs to go

tank - pump - filter - fuel rail - regulator- return to tank

the purpose of the regulator is to build pressure in the fuel rail

cant do that if its before it

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Oh ffs!! I even asked a mechanic about this and he said it went through the regulator first so took his word for it.

Damn I feel stupid as now, just have to swap the return and inlet lines around and technically should be sweet b the sounds of it..fuck

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He knew it was injected. He had messed a couple things up actually that I was getting done so I took it off them and went back to sorting it out myself, kinda scary when you trust people that are supposed to be ace at their job? I get a new injector seal tomorrow that I lost so if it starts I'll update my project thread ha

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Mechanics are only good for brakes and clutches.

Auto sparkies are trained on EFI.

Well to be fair, there's good ones and bad ones like everything else.

If you've got low pressure electric pump and carbie, the reg goes in line before the carbie, different from doing it EFI.

Steve

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Ok so heres the deal...

Swapped the inlet and return lines around now the injectors are definatly spraying as they should be. Got a few backfires out of it but it didn't actually start. Did the timing on it by getting the number 1 piston at TDC and then turning the dizzy untill it pointed at the number 1 lead on the compression stroke. Still didn't help the starting factor, got a few bangs out the exhaust but still no actual firing.

Anyone have anymore ideas/maybe it the computer?

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remove rocker cover, turn engine by hand untill the front two lobes are facing up. this is the compression stroke.

timing marks should line up.

remove spark plugs and clean.

with injectors unpluged....

set static timing using the ignition limit in ecu and a timing light. set limit to zero and then adjust dizzi etc.

turn ignition limit off.

plug in injectors.

try start engine with a mean battery.

if no fire but has good spark check... for fauled plugs etc etc

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