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Josh

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Well I got a mate to turn over the the crank pulley with a socket and i plugged up a spark plug hole with a finger tight and then waited till you feel it pushing and when you take your finger out a whole lot of air burst out. Seems logical enough to work out the compression stroke?

I could actually feel one of the valves pushing against my finger to while it was in there.

eke_zetec_RWD, the ecu etc bit seems a bit beyond my know how tbh. May have to take it to a auto sparky and get him to sort it out if it's possibly something to do with the ecu.

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Don't have a tuning shop here in Blenheim unfortunatly, however the guy here at the auto sparkys is really onto it with computers etc for basic tuning etc.

Unsure about the cam timing..

Yea just checked the firing order and that's correct as well, It's so damn close and I want to start it myself rather than a shop have to do it :x

EDIT, check the firing order and it was 1-4-3-2, so two round the wrong way, enough to stop it starting? Must try it now

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swapped leads over and tried with a battery out of my old mans car (capri stays at parents garage atm). Didn't clean the plugs though. It didn't start again :( Thing is, it's being tried on battery's with mint charge, but it's failing to turn over that hard, it's like it's really tight or something. It gives to average turns overs then it sort of stops then it starts turning over again but sounds like it's really struggling to do so and I know these battery's are all good charge wise to hmm.

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clean plugs, infact buy new ones. ngk ap8fs.

check the power leads are big enough, when cranking check voltage accross battery positive and engine earth. must be over 8 volts. more is better.

did you check timing with timing light? sounds too far advanced if doin that. set it with a light.

at crankn speed just set to 8 to 10 btdc for a start so it will go.

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swapped leads over and tried with a battery out of my old mans car (capri stays at parents garage atm). Didn't clean the plugs though. It didn't start again :( Thing is, it's being tried on battery's with mint charge, but it's failing to turn over that hard, it's like it's really tight or something. It gives to average turns overs then it sort of stops then it starts turning over again but sounds like it's really struggling to do so and I know these battery's are all good charge wise to hmm.

youve fucked your starter didnt clean you plugs and youll prolly find the volt drop is making the link drop out

if you want help...follow the sugestions cause these guys are trying to help you .. and your not helping yourself

like with the fpr problem .. the first post would have told everyone what was wrong ....shame you didnt do it

fault finding is a series of eliminations.... if you miss one you compramise every other dependant test

just some advice bro :D

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Yea no shit mate. I've literally done them all now and I still can't get it. Hoping it's just something to do with the computer that's any easy fix. It'll go, just not yet. Appreciate all the help you guys have givin and I got more out of it than when I began but I'm think I'm getting someone to have a look at it now.

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, but it's failing to turn over that hard, it's like it's really tight or something. It gives to average turns overs then it sort of stops then it starts turning over again but sounds like it's really struggling to do so and I know these battery's are all good charge wise to hmm.

Over advanced ignition timing will cause that.

Steve

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I'd bet there is nothing wrong with that ECU man.

Links won't run properly if a) the battery is a bit flat, they hate having a flatish battery. B) bad earths.

You can eliminate both of these common problems easily by making sure the battery is up to snuff

and making the best damn earth you can. Big bolt through the guard with a big fat washer against bare metal.

having the leads back to front will definately stop it starting

and what forced said ^ above with the advance timing.

It's usually the simplest of mistakes, like my V8, we spent ages fucking around

changing things and didling with the computer etc only to find out that the

firing order was wrong :rolleyes:

I reckon it's probably a timing issue.

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  • 3 weeks later...
You can eliminate both of these common problems easily by making sure the battery is up to snuff

and making the best damn earth you can.

Agreed! ^ good advice.

Big bolt through the guard with a big fat washer against bare metal.

Disagreed!

The ECU should only be grounded to two places :

1) The block/head

2) The battery post

Not anywhere else. Ever.

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Na not sorted, really pissed off. Hopefully going to get the whizz round that knows about links etc. That'll be in a couple weeks when I get back to town from work though.

Don't fuk with the settings as it tuned to a 2L. If nothing in the ECU has been changed the problem wont be at the ECU. If you do feel the need to fuk with them make sure you right down all the settings first.

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, but it's failing to turn over that hard, it's like it's really tight or something. It gives to average turns overs then it sort of stops then it starts turning over again but sounds like it's really struggling to do so and I know these battery's are all good charge wise to hmm.

Over advanced ignition timing will cause that.

Steve

I was thinking the same.

Josh, this will get the timing close to spot on.

1) get the engine to TDC and make sure the pointer on the cam backing plate is pointing to the dot on the head.

2) Take the dizzy cap off and check what post on the cap the rotor is pointing to. That post needs to have the plug lead going to #1 cyl

3) Confirm that the firing order is 1342 going clockwise around the dizzy cap.

4) Turn the carnk so that the timing mark is lined up to either 8 or 10 degrees.

5) With the ignition on run gently move the dizzy anti clockwise then move it clockwise untill you hear the relay click. Stop moving it as soon as you hear it click.

This is how I setup a fresh 2L and they fire right up if you do it corret because the base timing has been set to 8 or 10 degrees.

Good luck!

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Big bolt through the guard with a big fat washer against bare metal.

Disagreed!

The ECU should only be grounded to two places :

1) The block/head

2) The battery post

Not anywhere else. Ever.

hmmm interesting? Why is that?

Chris from Wirelink (formally Link) told me that Links need to have equal earths.. so that each sensor

has a similar earth to that of the ecu. Apparently, the latest Links now have earths running out to each

sensor to make sure this happens.

I've got all my earths coming off my earthing bolts through the guards, I have one on each side one to the heads

one to the block. If I ran the ecu back to the neg side of the battery it would be different to the earths on the

ecu sensors which I have been well advised not to do.

In anycase it works sweet and all my ecu's have been done like this.

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