peteretep Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 haha can you actually buy car oil from the warehouse?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 haha can you actually buy car oil from the warehouse?! It's where I buy my brake fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 jesus, is it branded stuff or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Caltex branded. I think they sell Castrol too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 yeah boe I uy my gtx from there sometimes. get it cheap as chips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 paralell imported shit boe, even sell castrol gtx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danger Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 Castrol VMX is good shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggo Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I get my oil from teh warehouse because i work there :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 any 80W90 GL-5 oil is fine for your mitsi for the gearbox, and I think the diff uses either straight 80W or 90W. Let me know what oils you use, as I'm going to change my gearbox and diff oil and want something decent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrubb Posted September 29, 2007 Author Share Posted September 29, 2007 I got Castrol VMX which is "SAE 80W and exceeds API GL3 and GL4 performance requirements." This will be alright? Let you know how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtailfred Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 redline isnt the only good synthetic option. amsoil have good oils too. harder to get though, but cheaper and as good or better. series 2000 75/90 for the box and 75/140 for the hypoid diff. they may have changed the name to severegear, but its the same stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 ive always used the castrol VMX gearbox oil, 80w90 or whatever it is and the 90w stuff for diff and steering box in the EX and LA, i dont know bout it in the gearbox, everytime ive always used it int he gearbox ive ended up with a noisy main input bearing, been fine in the diff. Those mitsi engines dont like the castrol GTX, i have no idea why, makes no sense.They leak more, getting higher oil temp and lower oil pressure from the GTX, slap the shell 20w40/50 (whatever it is, its in the red bottle) and theres no oil leaks, less noise and the oil seems to remain alot more stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vvega Posted November 3, 2007 Share Posted November 3, 2007 vmx and syntrax owns your face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrubb Posted November 4, 2007 Author Share Posted November 4, 2007 Yup, I found 20W40/W50 was good. Using 15W40 atm and its been leaking slightly and Ive had to top it up a couple of times.. as soon as my valves are adjusted I'll change it again and get some of that Castrol 20W40 or the 20W50 most likely. Cant remember which one it was I saw for like $17 So you say 90W stuff or whatever works really well for diff? cuz I need to top that up too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ogre Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 i think its the 90w stuff that the mitsi diff and steering box uses. I recon the shell 20w50 was better than the castrol 20w50 in the mitsi engines.Pretty much the same price give or take a $1 or two, plus that shell stuff seems to last alot longer than the castrol or even better brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrubb Posted November 4, 2007 Author Share Posted November 4, 2007 Yea I think shell is what I was meaning to type.. I cant remember for sure though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 what sort of oil should i run in my vr4 motor boes? not so much brands but ratings? like 10w40 or some shit? newest car/motor ive ever had has been 1981 (oldschool repping) so just been smashing 20w50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtailfred Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 in new zealand your cold grade is sweet from 0 - 20 and your hot grade from 30 - 50. the climate is good like that. if you hammer it hard, it will be hot and will thin the oil out so it pays to go thicker. if you dont hammer it a lighter weight one is probably better. if you dont go synthetic stear clear of wide ranges as they break down more quickly. if you go for a heavy weight check its performance as most are designed for (lol, seems ironic, but) old cars and are fairly poor in performance. old cars can benefit from oils that last longer and work better too. its just that the standards were low back then. eg, my amsoil 20w50 racing oil is a great oil, but the 20w50 whare house brand stuff wont be as good in any way. i run the amsoil 2050 in the skyline because i hammer it hard and it gets hot. if i didnt hammer it a 1540 mineral or 0-30 synthetic would be a good choice careful with synthetics on dirty engines, they clean out bits that you want to stay dirty and cause leaks. castrol gtx is a good ordinary 20w50 that i always used in the ute before the twincam swap. its suitable for OS engines fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrubb Posted November 4, 2007 Author Share Posted November 4, 2007 Alot of information! Always wondered about that stuff and what the numbers meant.. the W means winter I think someone on here said? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishtailfred Posted November 4, 2007 Share Posted November 4, 2007 the first digit is how thick it is when its cold and the second is how thick it is when its hot. that may not make sense if you consider that a straight weight oil is say a 30 when its hot AND cold. but they use additives of curled up hydrocarbons to make it stay thick at high temps and be thin at cold ones at the same time. the coils expand as they heat up and make it thicker, but because the rest is getting thinner it stays similar. the trouble is that those long chain helix hydrocarbons break down way too easily, hence keep it narrow for best performance with mineral oils. synthetics shouldnt suffer from it because they naturally have wide viscosity stability. and you are welcome i'll contribute tech, you guys contribute humour sweet deal by me!!!! fred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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