sentra Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 i want to be able to do trackwork and doghnuts in my rotary for hours at a time, ignoring pass configurations, materials i allways assumed a few things: 1 being +thickness = +cooling ability , the extra distance for air to travel and the fins pitch would be reasonably neligiable in the real world. seems lots of people are adiment that +thickness = futile for a number of reasons which sound reasonable enough, and if your going to reply youl all ready know them so i wont bother typing them out. i personally think their all full of shit and trying to justify being tightarse but theres enough comments about it to make me ask before spending 4 weeks wage on a friggen radiator cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 I got a three core built up. I talked to heaps of rad guys who told me all this shit blah blah blah didnt know. I talked to one on to it as guy who said a few points you may find interesting. Copper radiators can cool better but usually have less rows than alloy. Alloy ones look nicer but for the same size and row number cool worse. Alloy can/do however often have more rows installed under the same surface area so cool better. Basiacally a cast engine ill need more cooling than an alloy one. Rotas could be a diff story tho. I recomend you just buy the 3core series 5 replacemwent rad that a guy on trademe sells... if he still does em.. they were cheap as for what they were. Check here... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listin ... ber=121869 He also said some cool shit about electric fans and how wank wank they were which I then confirmed when I went electric and my temp raised. lol Another way of getting more cooling is to increase the volume your pipes can hold. Sorry just answered a whole lot of shit then realised I dont even know what you are really asking??? I guess the width would be relavant but the amount of extra cooling it does may be invalid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blakamin Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 more cores, big header tank and a slowish flow for max air cooling works on a V8... rotes? no fuckin idea.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 I may sound like a broken record and this does not answer your question but the best cooling aid I EVER fitted to my race car was an electric waterpump from Davies Craig and available from Repco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 the more volume of water a cooling system holds the more energy it takes to heat it and keep it hot there fore the more heat it can taje from motor. big pressure header tank helps. always use thermostat. can organise alloy rad and tanks etc 4 u custom.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leebo3 Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Here is a cheap alloy one on trademe, guess it would be big enough for you sentra http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =107162421 And uncle jake, are the electric ones that good? Where do you mount them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 And uncle jake, are the electric ones that good? Where do you mount them? They are stunning if you get held up at the start line with a red flag. The circulate at the same rate (60 litres per minute I think) regardless of engine revs and it is when parked that engines can get really hot IMHO. I have removed the impellor from the mechanical waterpump and only use it as an entry port for the water. That also buys you extra room between the radiator and the front of the engine for an electric fan. Keeping the superior mechanical fan would be a bit tricky in my scenario. The EWP just hangs in the bottom radiator hose - I have not mounted mine to the body at all and that has not caused me any issues to date. They are about the same price as a cheap alloy radiator (like the one I bought on Sunday off TardMe) Edit - the EWP circulates at 80 litres per minute. http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 I always spam tech threads - but hey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 i fully agree with jakey, venger used to have mega over heating probs, combination of EWP, big alloy rad (dont know how many core but can find out if you want) and twin electric fans for when your not moving fixed it all. for track work the big rad and EWP will benefit you for more water volume and constant flow. for burnouts the elecy fans and big rad will do it. that alloy rad posted up looks ok but the vengers is bigger then that again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sholdowa Posted July 4, 2007 Share Posted July 4, 2007 Wasn't there someone going for the donut record who had to give up due to overheating - reckoned the problem wasn't the rad, but the fact that there was no air flow through it due to the fact that it wasn't moving forwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 air flow is important, intercoolers shud be back to back with rad or ducted to eachother to reduce dead air spots. shrouds on fans etc. look at diggers or stationary motors they go for thousands of hours under full load and are self reliant on airflow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 I hate elctric fans.. when I was having overheating probs I tried three diff electric fans. None of them were as good as my standadr fan with the shroud on. never tried one on each side tho, dunno if this is recomended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 my electric fan only cuts n after like 5+minues of idling straight off the track. temp stays constant as a mofo on the water side. oil temp goes up quite a lot though compared to normal driving. my fan covers half of the radiator, and blows at half speed on it's thermoswitch unless it gets reeeeally hot. seems to drag the temp back down. in effect, you shouldn't _need_ a fan for most stuff, sut have an electric one for stationary and low speed work. i'v found factory style ones to work ean compared to aftermarket ones etc. s4 sev radiators are only single core IIRC. yours is probably half blocked now too with the age of the car etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 i havent noticed a change in running temp since ive switched to an electric fan, it switches on exactly what temp i want it to and would keeps the engine cool enuf in heavy traffic etc. there is always the upside of electric fans aswell, less engine noise, less drag on engine etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 the rx7 was getting to 125 degrees around the track, just to let you know how much cooling is needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Thats about what mine was running to when I had trouble.. thats way too hot. Go threecore. A high pressure cap, antifreeze and go from there. If it still isnt cooling try eliminating bends from the piping and/or making pipes bigger.. then fiddle with electric fans if you wish. Also dont forget the gauge could be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 yea hard gauges are shit sometimes. wt pressure cap are you using? where is the temp being measured? we have one of those tempurature lazer gun thingys at work which are good for finding hot spots. accurate to 0.1deg C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 that was the computer telling us 125, cooled down really quick though when we came off the track it is a high pressure cap, sentra probably knows what pressure The car already has 2 electric fans(subaru legacy I think) which cover 95% of the radiator with a reasonable seal around them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 /\ could potentially be half the problem, fans are used to cool down the car when its not mooving, when it is moving the fan creates drag to the air going thru the rad, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted July 5, 2007 Author Share Posted July 5, 2007 from memory its 20 or 35 psi cap, cleaned 3 row. (i think the pump is probibly not doing much above 6k, for years ive been meaning to make a perspex front cover to have a look at it) my wording of the question was a bit odd, i cant think of a better way to describe it, what i was trying to ask was, ignoring pass configurations and materials, what is the best way to make a radiator more efficent, the 3 changable dimensions being width, height, and thickness. thickness being the most commonly changed. there seems to be alot of argument against increasing the thickness to do with how the heat is absorbed into the passing air mostly in the first few mm of thickness, then all the extra thickness is doing is increasing the resistance of air passing through. it also seems most people coming up with these facts drive hondas and in the real world what they are saying isnt significant at all. i get the feeling they are trying to justify not getting a decent radiator built. there was enough comments on it for me to ask about it before parting with my money im reasonably convinced increasing thickness = ftw, theres just not many people i know who happen to actually 'really' know what there talking about and arnt trying to sell me a radiator (i actually met one once at the oaks tavern, riviting stuff) my posts are fucking long and boring spam up funny shit to break the tone hey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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