Yammies

Try argorace.com.au They can custom make conrods based on your specs

yes definitely a 924...

I bought seatbelts brand new from repco. Lap/sash for the rear and retractables for the front. They use generic belts

Im not 100 percent sure on that. I had a chevanne as my first car. It had rear seats too. They were badged as Bedford chevannes in the uk and normally didn't have side windows, but all the ones I've seen here are basically chevette wagons/estates. I have quite a few bits stashed here and i cant use any of the engine bits as the original engine is long gone from mine.

Chevannes were brought into new Zealand to get around the import tariffs and were brought in without rear seats. The seats were added in the factory later and meant they imported the vehicles for commercial use.

Yeah that's similar to what I have planned. No room for the safety loops at the front as I'm using factory mounts at the front. I may just buy top hat bushes and fabricate the rod end yet

Where is he based? I only need the joints. Will make my own ladderbars

Wierd. My certifier told me not to use rose joints as they don't have enough movement in them

Sure have. He said they need to be a rubber or similar flexible type of joint, as opposed to spherical rod ends as there isnt enough 'give' in the rod end. Ladder bar is going in a chevette which has torque tube from factory so is very similar to factory and allows the pinion to stay in alignment

Can anyone tell me where in NZ I can buy some rod ends similar to the below pic? I am building a ladder bar rear end for my chevette but I'm struggling to find them in NZ. They will need to be able to be certified

almost any fuel injected car will have that setup if it has an in tank pump...

most inner CV joints only have a circlip holding them on, so if the outer is being a dick then i just remove the inner and do it that way... saves a lot of hassle in my mind.

try www.staparts.co.nz

any GL4 or GL5 rated oil in the SAE 80 - 90 weight should do the trick. there are heaps of different brands out there but the difference is bugger all. Something like a GL4 80w or GL5 80w90

The short answer is there is no reason why you can't deck the block as opposed to skimming the head. most people only skim the head, but if your head is straight and not corroded you'll be fine... normally the head is worse than the block though! Just work out your compression ratio and piston/valve clearances to make sure there won't be any issues.

I'm gonna go with no... don't reverse the lines... front brakes generally deliver more fluid, and just because the rear is disc doesn't mean that you should necessarily deliver more fluid to that area. Wilwood make inline residual pressure valves - 2 PSI for Disc, and 10PSI for drum brakes....

Check your fuel rail pressures - cranking, pump running, and leak down pressures. If it's EFi it won't be auto choke... that's carb stuff..... Though most engines use the temp sensor as the trigger for cold start enrichment

What grade of oil are you using? I second the 20w/50 oil. There's a good chance you are running the wrong grade - say 15w/40. You are wasting your time running some of the more modern oils like magnatech in an older motor. also, check your idle speed to make sure it is idling high enough. Basically, the thinner the oil, the less resistance to flow, and therefore less pressure.

how different are the c31 laurel ones?

you're well on your way dude. A mate of mine had one of these a couple of years back... put hydraulics in it but it wasn't really the right car for it.... His had had similar treatment to yours re: bog work with a bit of satin black paint over the top....

looks relatively sound... should be a good starting point.... What are your plans for it?

It refers to all types of spacers/adapters, regardless of whether it changes the PCD or number of studs.

they need to be hubcentric in order to be legal (they need the little lip in the centre that locates/centres the wheel) They ideally need to be certed, but my bro just has black discs/round plates in behind the wheel that hides the spacers. They get VTNZ WOFs everytime.... BTW 5x114.3 is a far more common stud pattern.. fits Falcons, Valiants, Nissans, Mitsis.. there's bound to be something that would work....

The clearances on the new HPCR injectors are down in the 2 - 3 micron range. You will not remove particles of this size effectivly with a paper celulose filter element. All of the OEM's are well aware of the issues with these new tier 4 engines and are busy writing disclaimers about the fuel going into the tank. Basically the filters often fitted by the OEM will remove particulate but they are limted therefore the fuel going into the vehicle needs to be very "clean" and the onboard filters will handle the last step. For what ever reason, toyotas seem to have been hit the hardest by this. IMO there is nothing wrong with our diesel fuel supply but we typically have poor dispencing systems ie. old storage tanks. I understand dispensers are now running down to 3 microns at the point of use. Oil companies don't like paying out for repairs so they are pretty hot on upgrading the filters. Less than three microns is almost at the point of requiring closed circuit refuelling as on aircraft. it's the only way you can avoid airborne dust contaminating fuel.

Going into a chevette. Do you know what the ignition relay actually switches? i figured it would only be naff stuff in the commodore and I probably won't need it to get the motor running. from the looks of things the EFI relay and the fuel pump relay are the only real important ones, with the start relauy and fan relay also being used.