ta63-1uzze

umm I don't want to be a dick but have you taken out the half shafts completely ? got a picture to throw up. some times they need some pry bar action to get it to come free. but it shouldn't bee to difficult to get out and no you shouldn't need to undo the pinion nut to get the center out.

right so I own a mini . and at some stage its been given a little bit of love . I am currently doing a re seal and general tidy up of the engine and gearbox I have the engine in bits , but I still have the head on at this stage. I am trying to find out what goodies it has , currently I have found it has a new oil pump , new pistons, new cam , been honed , not sure what size the cylinders are or if it has been bored out etc. . . but it has part numbers inside the pistons ( cast so I know they aren't forged ), that read " PD157A RENZ" I have googled this and it hasn't given me any information , other than some guy in club k has some similar pistons . so not much help at all does anyone recognize this part number , and can that possibly lead me to the size of the bore ?

yup fair enough, I like a good head scratch every now and again. its always nice to find out why but some times its not worth the journey. interesting fault though : )

bridge rectifier : 3 diodes direct negative ac wave to earth and 3 direct positive ac wave to the battery +, there are 3 windings on the stator, so 2 diodes for each winding effectively. so if one of the diodes that block the positive ac current is not working then you have a direct short to ground via the stator winding through the not working negative ac diode. the regulator just regulates how much current is sent to the rotor. which in turn increases or decreases the strength of the field in the rotor. the stator is fixed position 3 coil winding that actually induces the voltage . so logically speaking , a small current leak points to the diodes allowing current to flow when they shouldn't. and seeing as some transistors need to be excited to work it only makes sense that they are the most likely fault because disconnecting the battery and then re connecting it makes the fault stop. its almost like the wrong diodes have been chosen or maybe the heat is making something expand and short out. Or the heat is making the diodes not work as a semiconductor any more. . . I have heard of this situation in the older mustangs , not ever been first hand experience thought . so I cant tell you if it was something expanding and shorting or if it was the heat mucking around with the diodes themselves any luck with testing it from cold ??

so I have this idea , what happens if you run the car for like 30 seconds from cold. and then check the current draw ? not letting it get hot is basically the aim if the fault is still happening then that rules out temperature and thermal expansion being a possible cause of the fault.

shit it all points to a diode ay, have you since taken it back to the place the rebuilt it , have the diodes checked not just bench tested. what kind of temperature is the alternator at after driving, is it roasting hot. like will it burn you if you touch it ? excessive heat would lead me to suspect a short circuit . but seeing as disconnecting the battery stops the fault then that makes me think that it can only be the diodes. anyway I would be talking with the people who rebuilt it . as it makes no sense

lazy way around this is to hook up a relay to the sense and ignition on , so when you turn the key to acc it energizes the relay so it all turns on before you start the car . but I would be concerned rectifier circuit may over charge the battery seeing as it cant control the flow anymore so probably best to get a new alternator.

yup, about 200 bucks a hour, we have a couple cnc machines , lots of surface grinders, a couple lathes and a bunch of edm machines... and you would have to have something very simple to make and preferable made from aluminum to get something made for "cheap" . I say from aluminum because its so kind to the tools, the speeds and feeds are always super fast and the machine loves it ,whilst its not the cheapest material its not that expensive and it can be readily bought it many different extrusion sizes . anyways what have you got in mind? throw up some models let the people give you some costing

as above question : vacuum is created by the cylinders trying to draw air through the closed throttle body, since there is no connection to the 4 throttle bodies of each carb, there is no manifold vacuum. this is made worse by the fact you have to wait a few strokes for the vacuum to be drawn again , so you will get vacuum but it will be pulses of it rather than a entire manifold worth. and it will be substantially less because of the volume in each runner verses the size of a factory plenum is somewhat smaller. why has no one asked about the cams!!! how hot are they? you can loose all vacuum by having hot cams , to much overlap . . . as for bridging each port and making one vacuum signal line I am unsure of how you would go about this , even with the aid of one way valves you will end up with a very up and down vacuum signal, that is only going to make the advance indecisive . I cant think of a simple way to get that idea to work . either way you will end up with continuous vacuum or steady low vacuum, or extremely pulsated signal . in my mind the only answer is do ditch the dizzy for timing control, and get a crank trigger, throttle position sensor, and some igniters and use some aftermarket programmable ignition module. and use the dizzy for just for the high tension circuit . that way the module will control the advance because it will see when your of the gas and advance accordingly

shit didn't read that bit before , if it was in an over fueling situation that is enough to fuck it. they don't like being doused in excessive amounts of fuel. check your fuel pressure regulator too that needs to be working well too : )

just a side note if using aftermarket or home made exhaust systems, you need to have the sensor placed so that it is not horizontal or on the downward angle as condensation and fuel vapors etc. will collect in the pintail and that will fuck it too. need a slight angle so fluid wont collect in it. there is some etiquette to observe when handling them too, you cant clean them with solvents, if you drop it that can fuck it too, they are a very sensitive bit of equipment , they can also "wear out" but not in the general terms, basically they start to slow down and the signal frequency is to slow , so even though they appear to be working with out an oscilloscope you wont see the up and the down of the signal. so testing them via millimeter may tell you that It is working to some degree but it could still be the problem . if it isn't switching fast enough you will get a round about situation where the ratio is for ever going to be to rich then too lean over and over , as its not responding fast enough. also misfire for long periods of time will also foul/fuck the sensor as it is very sensitive, using the wrong kind of sealant can also have adverse affects too . on a side note seeing as it is only running on one branch you also need to know that that particular cylinder is in good working condition, so doing a compression test and a leak down test across all cylinders and comparing the data, they need to all be with in at least 10 percent . other wise you could be pushing shit uphill if that one particular cylinder isn't healthy it will bring the rest of the cylinders into a incorrect afr situation. pan pacific and dasco sell good aftermarket o2 sensors at reasonable prices. and if you are interested go and have a look at how a lambda sensor works, they are an amazing bit of technology almost like 2 in one sensor with a great frequency they are super fast to switch and give great feedback tot the ecu , great idea very techy

if you pressure/vacuum fill the cooling system then its not normally an issue, an air lock is when you cant get the air out of the cooling system, it gets trapped at the highest point. air is compressible so even when the cooling system gets hot and expands the air stays where it is. this is an issue as it interrupts the flow of coolant. making hot spots in the system where coolant doesn't flow so it sits in the same spot and boils = very bad in every kind of way. you can get bleeding systems that either pressurize the system or vacuums the system and you fill it using the suction created by the vacuum these work very well , you do need a compressor to use such tools and a little bit of know how. bnt sell vacuum bleeders as does most auto parts places. I personally have one cause I have a heater tap that is higher than my radiator. I would recommend them they save a lot of time but you do need a compressor to use it

how much is it drawing ? does it have coil on plug or something .

so when its faulting have you touched all the wiring by hand? looking for heat in any wire coming from the alternator and any of the engine earths body earths etc. or failing that checking for voltage drop across any connections in the circuit? voltage drop is your best friend in this kind of situation as you can get actual tests done on the working FAULTING circuit. this is important because heat and resistance will change any tests you do on a cold circuit and give you positive false reading , so if you do have a poor earth when you resistance check it cold it will probably test up fine. then when you run it up and everything gets hot it all changes and becomes faulty. in my mind I can think of 3 things that could be the fault/cause/symptom. 1 poor earth, wiring too small, poor dirty connections, etc. 2 over spun alternator . 3 faulty alternator. I think it is a wiring fault as you have said that when you made a isolated circuit (jumper cables and new battery) it tested up good so the question remains was the alternator hot when you isolated the circuit ? because if it wasn't then you have found your fault (the vehicle wiring) if it was extremely hot then there is still something wrong and its probably as mentioned faulty windings

I think you have a loose connection in/to your alarm and its causing your issues. I think you should re solder the connections or at least remove it completely and see if the problem goes away. basically the engine isn't connected to any lights in any kind of way other than the alarm , as for a relay clicking its most likely because it is being turned on and off over and over indicating a loose connection, either way the connections need checking or the alarm needs to be removed so you can rule it out. for a quick test, start the car and wiggle the wiring around the column / alarm and see if it makes the relay tick or even cut the engine off, if it does and you can make it do it over and over then you have found your problem and now you can go about fixing it hope this helps in some way shape or form

I think its more a question of what is your desired engine. as some manufactures use a second throttle plate as a traction control and some use abs and some use actuators to lift the pedal itself , so how to disable them really depends on the particular system you have. and as said put the engine together and plonk it in the hole. try put as much of it together as possible then decide if its easier to cut the sump to clear or lower the sub frame etc. . . many different ways you can make things fit, all depends on what you can do, like if you don't have a welder then cutting up the sump isn't going to be easy so spacing out the sub frame might be something you can achieve your self all sorts of good ideas on the forum, many different ways to skin a cat

lol would probably pay to just charge the battery fully and properly first before everyone gets all crazy about testing everything, trying to analyze any reading/tests with a flat battery is only going to make you scratch your head if that battery is dead flat chances are the alt hasn't been given enough power to excite it, and that means it isn't going to start charging even if you get it running via jump starting. please report back to us after you have given the bat a full charge, and check the water level is good before charging too : )

"bc Cressida mx73" . bolt in rear, weld on front. 1500 bucks from redline performance. they will fit your beast (if I am wrong then someone will pipe up no doubt) . as for going 40mm low I don't think even adjustable will do that out of the box. 70/80mm is a nice height ,I cant see anyone loving driving on nz roads at 40mm, its a bit on the silly side isn't it ?

I also have the blue one that rookie posted. I bought mine from machinery house, its great , I have used it allot , they are very good. www.machineryhouse.co.nz/w1125 they are on special, they have support in new Zealand if you ever need any parts service or help etc.. they even have a dedicated rep that you can call and harass if you need to talk turkey with some one. they guys in high brook drive were very helpful when I bought mine. if I didn't buy the one I did , I was looking at another unit it was from weld tech it was a "xcel tig 200" . they are also on high brook drive , they are awesome I cant recommend them enough, even if you just want so help in choosing materials , rods, tungsten's anything to do with welding they always are so helpful they have very long warranty periods, they offer hugely discounted servicing of the machine if you have bough it from them , they do repairs on site, shit I really couldn't recommend them enough, the only reason I didn't end up buying from them was that the other welder from machinery house was on special, I got the whole lot for 1800 including gst. was a little while ago now, but I think they are even cheaper now so that is more of a bonus

this thread is ironic as fuck, . it was last year about this time I had the same issue as you and I had all this same shit going through my head about engine swaps etc . . but it turns out that the corolla wagons are still worth good money. I sold my old wagon same as yours with 380 000 kms for just shy of 3 grand !!! I then got a Carib black top 6 speed . . . 5 star alarm, lowered, 16 inch mags, tints, fully serviced and extensive service history, cam belt with all trimming ie water pump seals coolant etc etc. 190kms on the clock, tow bar, sun roof ,hands free kit, mean sounds with new components, monsoon shields everything you can think of for a spiffing price of 4800 . I had to look for about a month to find this gem, but they are out there . much easier then mucking around with engine swaps and all that shit, just buy it get in it and drive , I test drove about ten of them and this was the last one i came across no one even bid on the auction so i bartend them down 500 or so and took it away the following weekend : ) best car decision i have ever made, well its the only one of my cars that is going and has a wof .

you will need a cert for any engine swap regardless if its bolt in or came factory in any other model etc... for an upgrade that you could possibly getting away no cert cause they look almost identical , all I can think of is a 5afe /7afe so a little more "cc's" . it will look the same and have a little more power but its no 4age. any "afe " you chose will probably have high kms and will have the same valve guide seals gone hard. so all in all I think your best option is to give your engine a bit of love. I also had this exact same wagon for almost 8 years, it went to 380 000 before I sold it and its still driving around now. the guides can be done in place with a home made crank locking tool and a air compressor to fill the cylinder with air (hold the valves in place whilst you change the guide). if you are handy with tools its not hard job to do. suspension bush's cant look past "sas" in manakau . they will have everything and I don't think you wil find cheaper any where else. they also do fitting if you cant get access to a press .

that's great news for you cause I have done the seat conversion into a ta63 carina and corona and I did them the same way. on each rail there is a roller / lower half and a channel section, the top channel section has 2 or 3 spots where tis either pined/riveted or welded, I cant remember correctly but I know its anchored and needs attacking with a grinder. you grind them off and the lower half of the rail comes away with the roller /channel / forwards and backwards and lock mechanism next you need to get some steel ,something like 5 x 50 is nice to use. drill holes and attach them to your new seats with bolts and washers. throw the rails in the car, and sit the seat on the rails vice grip them in or what ever , test out fitment . sometimes depending on the seat you have you may have to prop up or angle the base of the seat with steel. once you have found the right height and position for you , weld it all up. bit of paint and your done. they are easy enough if you try separate the lower half as it has everything that you need .

it doesn't need cert for a seat change, if you use the original seat mounts and the seatbelt uses the origonal mounts . and also the seat must be able to adjust seat forwards and back for wof you do need a cert if *your seat belt buckle ataches to the seat and you have had to modify it to fit your new seats, *or if you make new mounting points in your car for your seat to mount them you need to cut off your old seat rails, then you need some 5mm steel and you need to weld these across from one rail to the next, drill holes in said steel and bolt through the steel into the aftermarket seat. ' by doing it this way you keep your factory rails ( also have to be adjustable for wof) , factory seat anchor points and factory seatbelt anchor points keeping you all legal it is easy as fuck , you need a welder and some steel and a bit of know how . and your old seat will go in the bin cause they have no rails and you cant easily undo what you have just done

so designing has commenced and I have found that I need some information regarding the centre's flange measurements, its makes life easier if I design the flange to fit basic and common barrels so done anyone have and bbs, 15s that they can tell me the pcd of the bolts and the id and od of the flange surface ? I have been scouring over the internet but I haven't found anything just and the search is getting tiresome

oh man, so many feels, that really sucks. : (