CorollaGT

Often the speedo will read faster but the odometer will actually be correct (had people years ago worried about road users on their Hilux's which the speedo was reading quicker than they were actually travelling)

Was thinking my daily (Barry basic late 90's Galant) was good for what it is on gas. Getting 8L/100km regular driving or high 6's to 7L/100km on long trips. Maybe not after reading other posts haha. Definitely no time to bother with trying to drive economicly! Managed to get it Palmy to Auckland with the fuel gauge reading bang on the half mark (but not really half because stupid engineers not making the gauge read linear) as we were going along on the Auckland motoway. Modified 20v 4AGE with bigger cams etc managed 7.9L/100km Auckland to Taupo last year. Again super stoked about that. A month earlier it was doortin around Taupo circuit doing about 24L/100km.

Yup it's the car you're thinking of Brad. One of the sons works with me. Had no idea they sold it, had asked years ago jokingly to buy it but got the impression they had no intentions to do that.

Sure am. Been suggested to bleed the brakes after an event as well so might give that a go. Only been doing a couple of events a year.

Once bleed the brakes will have a great pedal feel all day and show no sign of any problem. Then 6 months later getting ready for the next trackday only that one calliper spits out dirty fluid. Cheers, might be a good job for Easter weekend

Looking for ideas on what I should be checking here or if this is normal. Basically I bleed my brakes religiously before each track day and have noticed the fluid is always dirty out of the RF caliper, but comes out mint on the rest. Car always pulls up square when braking in a straight line so am pretty sure its not a sticking piston causing too much heat (pads are wearing evenly too). I always clean off the pistons with brake cleaner and a rag before pushing them back in. RBF600 fluid Wilwood 4pot calipers (different pads for track and street) Stainless steel brake hoses Factory rear with better pads

Also be careful getting rid of too much droop in the rear suspension if you want to keep the 4WD useful. I know friends 3SGTE 4WD corolla would lift a rear wheel and as it had no LSD the inside wheel would just spin.

A number of friends who run track or road sprint cars rave about fitting larger rear sway bars on their FWD's. I personally run the largest factory rear swaybar available on my Corolla. But biggest handling upgrade I've done (ignoring decent tyres) is playing with spring rates. Last time out I tried 6kg fronts and 6.2kg rears (vs 8kg/6kg and 6kg/4kg previous days). Could be full throttle on or just before the apex and you'd feel the car still rotating after the apex. No understeer in sight.

I'd probably do some trawling on nzhondas.com on what brands to buy and which ones to stay away from. Certain brands don't last long

Mate with a EF9 Civic has shown interest in entering

Driven near near NT01's in the rain on the road and they were just as good as RE002's. Car had ample grip acceleration/braking and corners. Worn I can't imagine they would be anywhere as good in the rain hahaHave a set of 205/50R15 NT01's which have done 8 or so trackdays and over 1000km on track and still have tread left (mustn't be driving hard enough!). Kept them in a dark shed out of sunlight and try rotating them front to rear (FWD so the rears are there only for the ride) every couple of trackdays. They aren't as grippy as they were when new but am still really happy with how long they've lasted. In the middle of summer I could get a good 4-5 fast laps of Taupo track 1 before they go off

Will they not screw up angles/geometry? ie need to be used in conjunction with longer arms?

If you want something soon-ish Toyota NZ have a Denso equivalent (W27ESV) and they're $4.60 each rrp

Maybe

Needs more genuine Rotas, fake Bride seats and miss-fitting fake uras kit Mitch Looking forward to seeing (read: hearing it) being driven in anger with those ITB's

Hey Clint, stupid question I'm under the impression when getting removing air bags you need to remove everything (including wiring?) - can i still keep the spiral cable so that indicators will self cancel though?

They're obsolete now, so unless a dealer over there has one loest8 is out of luck as far as new goes.

A buddy is in the process of turboing his '98 Supra and building a new exhaust is one of the things he is doing. Will it most likely come down to the certifier as to whether or not he needs to add a cat when building the new system? From factory it had one.

Whats on the 26th? Road and Track is on the 20th then Trackday Xperience on the 27th iirc

Rodney at Roskilda would be the local guy to speak to.

You can get a KZ - Rseries if thats an option?

Was worried about this as I didn't bother putting a longer pipe after the rear muffler (is about 2" long) and am still left with a decent deep noise with no real drone.Hey Sparkle the zorst on my Corolla is 2.5" with two reso's and a straight through Magnaflow oval muffler (offset inlet/centre exit). You're welcome to have a nosey/go for a ride to get an idea of noise level. At this stage am real happy with the quality of those, will be pretty much the same as the AdrenalineR oval mufflers.

Looking good Rhys

I don't know if the Toyota O2's are the same but the Innovative widebands have the same thread as a Toyota gearbox drain plug (the bigger ones iirc)

The temp sensors are easy enough to test. Do it when the car is stone cold ie first thing and again once up to temp. Should be able to get a fair idea off that if its out of spec. Toyota workshop manual has a nice little resistance chart to compare it to. Like Hemi says, highly unlikely to throw a code if the sensor is just out of spec