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Posts
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Everything posted by tim13
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another thought on your tyre drama , given it is not a common size are they just old and hard ? check date codes on sidewall maybe different factory does tread rubber feel different to your other ones ? this is first bad feedback on T1rs I have heard , I know a few people who have loved them as a combined road/track compromise too
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you tried different pressures ? in my experiences with T1rs they liked lots more pressure than some other brands (5-10 psi more , up to max rec on sidewall) cheaper than more tyres nitto do that size in semi-slick which everyone I know who has tried them loves , good luck
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ooooohhhhhhhh , do I get a prize ? , glad its sorted buddy
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glass that is bonded in is considered structural
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beecham jags have all the airbags etc fitted , no mention on the cert plate though so I assume its a grey area ? odd though cause no crumple zone which is key to frontal impact regs on later stuff (bullbar or intercoolers etc are often an issue on Srs equiped cars)
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hey Al ; is it going ? who was right / best guess ? dont make me come up there !
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fuel leaks ? or when you loosen ? only ever trickles out of line to injector . pull caps off for a look cause they tend to crossfire on the shit that grows in them resulting in spark but not timed so wont go how does the wiring look ? insulation falls off the wires on them !
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hi Al , 9 out of 10 times it is distributor caps & rotors they will be full of green shit , clean em out if it runs ok order new , startech in auckland is your best local option . fuel distributors and injectors are almost never an issue , pumps and relays sometimes are , and vac leaks and wiring looms occasionally too ........ you wait till you get asked to sort the roof !
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it is always possible to adjust manually , it needs to be cause auto adjusters dont always adjust .... automatically , the 'baking' approach is average at best and is more suited to oil/brakefluid contaminated linings , good luck
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pull other drum scuff shoes and drum with emery (sandpaper for engineers) adjust brake to suit and should be sweet
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it is good practice to replace shoes and both cylinders , BUT , what you have done/are doing will be fine in most cases (life left in shoes no other leaks or seized parts , both cyls same size)
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you been to see an engineering shop ? looks like the sort of thing they could knock up ? time frame might still be an issue if they are anything like the guy I use in wellie !
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stirling brake and clutch in onehunga will probably have something
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ummm , may have missed something in my quick read , but ; if you are getting fluid into the booster it is the hydaulic side leaking NOT the vacuum side , with a remote booster you in essence have two m/cyls one on the pedal one on the remote booster so its the 2nd one that has the issue and you should be able to hone/sleeve and match up seals .... appologies again if you had that figured and I missed it !
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the man may be right vac hose issue is a possibility . if that doesn't solve it ; i have had similar symptoms on other things which have been caused by leaking fuel pressure reg diaphragms , can be hard to find if they are only leaking under vacuum . really liking your systematic approach and full disclosure of findings (so many of these threads stop without people explaining what they found) keep up the good work
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that looked a handful/fun , couple of things to think about/try 1; thumbs up (not through spokes) I am told thumb and wrist injuries hurt like hell ! 2; if you run a little toe-out at the front the locked diff should be more driver friendly and sorting the ratio will help too . cheers Tim
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ratios were designed around high speed autobahn touring the motors like revs and economy doesn't suffer too badly on nz roads
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diff out of a 6 cyl w126 is a better ratio and same size , little to no chance of lsd with any merc diff though but no fabrication/cert required transforms the car even behind the auto
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there are at least 4 or 5 different redline gear oils , soooo many people say ; use/dont use redline like there is only one type ! I have always been happy with the ones (different types in different applications) I have used . I have been told that the thought with race type oils is they only do one event and dont like sitting or constant use which kinda makes sense
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solenoid separate from starter ? if you have checked EVERYTHING else it might be the issue , easy way to test is bypass (carefully) using jumper-leads , can also test earths same way
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rivnuts have their place .... not sure it should be holding in your trans crossmember though ! I would look at drilling and tapping a suitable piece of flat bar
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kevlar lining on sprung drive plate with heavy duty pressure plate should answer your question , pretty sure you can get one built to suit , Hi Tech brake and clutch should be able to make you something in Auckland or MP autoparts in wellington , I have used both over the years and would use either again I havent used Toda stuff but their reputation seems good (although I like having local backup , hence my suggestions)
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doubled up , sorry
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sounds a little optimistic , worth a try I spose . is the oil level rising ? worth checking fuel pump (engine driven ?) and breather system too because if it is getting alot of fuel in oil it is prob more than mixture being too rich
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didyafixitdidyafixitdidyafixit ? always interested to hear results/solutions/tales of woe .........