Rhyscar

even better; bellhousings are bolt up as far as i can tell. 2zz and have the same clutch as well i'm currently using a 2zz trd clutch in my 4ag atm and it works fine! only problem would be figuring out driveshafts...

yeah just been up at his place this weekend rebuilding his car. he scored that through some good contacts and no, there aren't any more of them floating around. one option i found was convert to a c60 box (2zz 6 speed) as C-one do a gearset for them. although haven't really been able to find much info on them and c60 gearboxes are hard to come by anyway!

noise of open trumpets on daily puts a smile on your face every day. on a bluetop though don't know if i'd bother tbh. would require link and a lot of stuffing around getting it tuned right.

6 speeds are only margainly better than the c56 ratio's wise and you trade off reliability. looked at c60's a bit but not really enough of an improvement to justify it as you can't change the final drive at all in any of the fwd toyota boxes. running smaller tyres is not really doable as limited on tyre sizings for 15's and can't go any smaller to fit over brakes. keep the suggestions coming!

this might be a bit different for OS but i know there are some clever cookies on here and plenty of people with heaps of experience of building race cars so thought i'd get some e-pinions. so the old man runs in ss2000 in a ae82 fxgt. its running a blacktop 4age with C56 gearbox. one thing we are thinking about is how to get the gearbox ratios a bit better for racing as they are currently quite tall, with no options for changing final drive or gearset (as far as we know) so interested to hear a few thoughts on a couple of ideas i've had - motorbike gearbox - added bonus of sequential shifting, lots of effort to rig up though axles made etc. - Quaife - do they make a standard FWD box with diff?, just need to make driveshafts and bellhousing - Gearsets - does anyone know who makes them for toyota fwd boxes? TRD ones aren't in production anymore.. so what are peoples thoughts? has anyone seen any of this stuff done before and was it good/bad? just testing the water nothing will probably happen for a while.

insert churbo diesel power and manual box for ultimate daily (read: el-cheapo travelling), along with slam etc for obvious reasons. but i do like.

dude you can do a shit load of leveraging with a metre long pry bar! ...like break some knee caps and open siezed AW doors

put your car on our new trailer (also built by craig:- just picked up this morning) today and towed it round to get cage welded in. would have got pic for thread but don't have a decent phone to pic it with etc. will be interesting to see how well the cage all fits together etc. todd (palmerston north automotive) got an AMAZING cage built for his FD by craig, really top notch job. craig was saying if he isn't happy with the bends or fit he will make his own and fit it in there. RX7's have such limited space you can't afford to use a bit of extra room with cage unfortunately or you won't have any space to sit/have head hitting cage etc which isn't ideal. palmy has some real clever guys into building fast race cars if you know who to talk to. they don't have huge names (or ego's for that matter) but they really know how to make a car go fast. todd built a pro7 plus winning car and really knows how to build a special rotary engine. and craig builds amazing cages/nick who works for craig is ace at setting up racecars for wheel alignment etc. i can guarantee you won't be dissapointed. /ok now back to drinking piss.

ask charles babbage. magic prolly

^^ can't wait for new years camping in this/i'll prolly just sleep under a tree somewhere nice project will be good to see it get a bit of a tidy up. got any locations planned for campz?

i feel semi qualified to answer a few of these questions/make suggestions here having worked for a company who make their own prototype molds for holden etc and does rotational molding as well. the way we did it with the polystyrene is you need to cover it in a simple varnish/sealant (can't remember the product we used sorry) that will separate the resin. or yes it will end up eating through it. polystyrene is a awesome medium to use for mold making. consider using a CNC mill to get the shape if you are after something awesome (we made a 10mx10m scale map of a guys farm on the CNC ) another foam that is quite similar and easy to make molds with is insulation foam. commonly known as blue or green foam its quite high density (compared to polystyrene) but still easy to shape using a rasp or a mouse sounder thingy (the ones that make you chortle cause they sound like a vibrator on P) also i would suggest rotational molding. its soo simple all you need is a rotatory device. a bbq with a roticery in function would be perfect. material is cheap as chips ($4/kg but i could probably get some regrind for next to nothing. only downside is its not UV stabilized) and it is real easy to make a sheetmetal mold like brock-lee suggested. put a few tabs where it joins and clamp it together using a few G-clamps. needs to be cooked at about 230deg for anywhere between 10-20min (depending on size and wall thickness you are after) its a really easy process and suited to one off parts or production runs, depending on how difficult the mold is to make.

google knows all; http://www.willtheyfit.com/ that should see you right.

i know nothing about these engines but from the sounds of your OP a weird backfire then never ran right after that, hard to start and doesn't run right sounds a bit like it has skipped a tooth or two on the camgears? just a far-fetched suggestion.

tried this with some really coarse stainless mesh (essentially plate with 2mm holes drilled in it) didn't work at all just caused heaps more back pressure so all the joins in my exhaust leaked

best bet is to add in a straight through resonator from a standard car. they quieten it by heaps! used one on my car and it went from ear-splittingly loud back to around 98db which is kinda alright. what size exhaust is it? one i used was 2.25 and iirc mr2 turbos run quite a big exhaust from factory.

yeah would be interesting to play with. will see how far i get with moving steering rack and getting swaybar in there..

not sure if any more slam is possible (and get it to handle). looks stupid high in pics with std bumper but have a fibreglass one to put on it sitting in the shed which will result in more slam. got other set of 15's on it atm with 195/45's on them which results in road kill being nailed and sticking to the extractors which equals a terrible fuckin smell! plus assorted crossmember grinding as well. oh and btw markku you should google image search 'cock a wheel' i did for lol's. i lol'd. will be seeing you about some $10 diesel sometime soon simon!

have you tried bigger gap on spark plugs?? might be the issue as 8mm is normally the gap you'd run on a turbo engine, around 10-11mm is more like a NA high comp gap. ask 1ovakind about spark plug gaps lol imo would be worth a try considering its only $20 worth of plugs.

thought i'd chuck a bit of an update up here. ran bearings after clutch etc was back in, got CXGPWR's old engine that is real mint. put that in, drove it for a week, then markku crashed it at manfeild after brake pad fell out. so then changed front panels with some from a cheap as chips levin, repainted it in the garage using crc primer and the cheapest enamel white paint it could buy. turned out kinda shitty (painted it on the night it snowed with waay too many beverages/no masks in us) but thats ok its a gay looking car anyway. haha so now its white. put fibreglass bonnet on with scoop to a. save weight and b. get some cold air going towards the open trumpets. IAT dropped by over 10deg so thats a step in the right direction, but still wanting to make a plenum/airbox to seal off when bonnet is closed. painted it black cause thats the only paint we have. kind of looks better than a whole lot of white i reckon. then put a G3 link on it and did a bit of road tuning. got it pretty good now but still needs to go on the dyno for a final check and power figure (won't be much!) had it at taupo trackday but was kinda disappointed in how it handled differently than before (had changed a few things) so made a few more changes and now its handling awesome. got some mintex pads and stuff to sort out the brakes problem and sorted spring rates. got down to a 1.25.4 at manfield on the CDCC trackday which i was happy with considering it was semi-wet and it still needs a bit more fine tuning. just loving the shit out of daily driving this thing to uni and raping the saddle/H50 on the way back to hawkes bay.

taking the sliders out, polishing and using some copper grease on them is always a good idea. do mine every time i change the pads.

will be air up that system somewhere. think what has happened is kind of what joker described but also modern cars have a trick/stupid proportioning valve that doesn't like fluid/air going through it backwards. they also block up really easily when doing this so its general no-no (not worth it). when pressing piston back in just undo bled valve to stop any fluid going back up the system. best bet is to bleed the bejesus out of it. also bleed rear drums as well cause lines will run diagonally on a caldina. if you go through a whole bottle of fluid when bleeding and its still not working then i'd say you'll have to look a bit further.

may be able to sort something out. I might be towing the racecar + trailer back to hawkes bay with adventura so plenty of spaces for g box. and you can drive ae101 back. ahh dammit naiper taupo in caged car >>> napier taupo with family wagon + trailer whats the plans for sunday arvo/night? get super choppy and have a sweet fire like nats? (couldn't find itinerary but i could just suck at looking)

hey folks. i'm pretty new to oldschool, been around a few other places people might recognize me from so thought i'd chuck up a thread of where i've got to with my car and see what OS thinks. plan is to keep it road legal so i can still drive it to uni all week, then to the track and home on the weekend. eventual plan is to do targa with the old man. this thing just loves windy roads, almost as much as i do. and thats probably the sole reason i haven't moved on to another car. had this for almost 4 years now. most of the progress has happened in the last year after attending a few track days then started thinking 'shit this is cool!'. have been a uni student studying engineering the whole time i have owned this car so has all been done on a very tight budget and all done myself. this is how it started; 4afe, single pot brakes, shit arse respray, jamex springs (laugh) went through and modded the 4afe a bit and also put koni adj. shocks etc in until i got to the point where i needed to do things properly. so went on a big money spending mission wired in a blacktop with c56 LSD gearbox. added oil cooler and custom extractors to get it a bit better race prepared. oil temps were getting up towards 140deg after track sessions. works nicely with my massive airbox converted to discs all round and big 275mm rotors with twin pot brakes on the front running TRD black pads i scored super cheap. then decided to do it properly with a cage and racetech seats and harnesses. still daily driven and love every minute of it! recently smashed the clutch to pieces at manfield. got a TRD clutch for 30bux and replacing syncro's in gearbox so no more curnchy crunch. hoping to get it all back together this weekend in time to get the suspension a bit better sorted with stiffer springs and HUGE rear swaybar in anticipation of winter series coming up. hoping to do all of the manfield rounds if money permits/nothing goes bang. let me know what you think. hopefully will meet a whole bunch of GC's at nats for mean yarns!

damn this is a cool boat tenfive. thought maybe drunken yarns were an exaggeration. will be sweet to see it all going and you doing some mean backflips!