azzurro

cool, pencil me in, be interesting to see how my giorno handles the flats! (i will be vanning in to town tho , not keen on a 40km mway ding ding :))

really nice work man, good job!

....you cant get that smell off your shoe? I also have a secret shame for the so wrong its right look of this shape in wagon form (my mum had a white one, blue interior)

It was jammed last month, ended up parked on the grass off the end of the overflow-overflow carpark around the side, and this was arriving just on 10am. Lots too see tho.

Great milestone! Wetsanding paint runs is = flapdiscing crummy welds. Given your attention to getting the body prepped properly it will turn out great im sure.

whaddaryah, a bloody sook? https://www.carsguide.com.au/car-news/co-driver-sits-on-engine-to-finish-race-video-22641

shot myself in the foot a bit by letting everyone know, but geddoudovit ya mongrels!

theres one on Tme at the moment $1 reserve http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/carburation-induction/auction-1340660186.htm

I did this a wee while ago on the 2300 which only came with an aftermarket ignition key. Such a good feeling getting the locks working by swapping those fiddly little things around to suit the random key from the bottom of the crap drawer in the kitchen that fit in the hole Hoonda looks like my 18yo dream car on those 17s

banging and popping out the carbs? usually this means lean, but black plugs say no. it may be an ignition timing thing (too much advance) or your cam timing might be off (inlet cam too retarded and compression is pushing it back out again especially under high load/high advance), so maybe both? could also be over rich idle (black plugs) and lean main circuit (popping on load) - could be your fuel pressure/flow as well. Did you clean & check the carbs before install? (so yeah could be lots of things) I would start with getting the basics solid (timing, both ignition and crank/cams) before chasing rainbows in the carbs.

been commuting this a bit lately, more so since some dick crashed into the mrs corolla on a roundabout time to improve the one star safety rating and de-special the special bus at the same time nissan mistral SS nudge bar, secured to the still unboltable factory tow hooks IPF "super rally" spots from the old van controlled via a relayed dash rocker switch so they only come on with the high beam.

Got a couple pf the whitewalled tyres fitted up, but for whatever reason I didnt really like them. They would fix the rubbing issues on the outside of the rear tyre: and would have made a big difference to the gearing compared to the tyres on the 130 rims! But for whatever reason i didnt really like them, didnt match what was in my head. Still cleared everything, Anyway, so i got some 185/65R14s put on from the stash and i liked them less. Meh No photos cause i reckoned it looked lame/shoulda kept the other tyres on Will keep an eye out for some wide whiote flappers, there are some brand new ones on tme at the mo - any one got some?. So these have gone back into storage after rolling exactly 1m, but i have consolidated three sets of rims and tyres into one, so thats a spacesaving win i suppose. Found a 'DESIGN BY pininfarina' badge on an Alfa at Pickapart, which made me happy cause that place really didnt, and the car is back to looking like this, which tbh is pretty sweet imo. Other stuff, it seems to run very reliably and well. Only a few small fiddly things - Windscreen mostly doesnt leak, still a few drips onto the drivers heel area, so sunvisor is back on - Kenwood 4ch amp ive had for 20 years that was running 6x9s off an ipod decided to short to ground internally, so swapped out for a spare 2 channel fusion but only after blowing 3 fuses - tappets reset, a couple were a touch loose, much quieter now - plugs on 3 and 4 seem a bit richer than the rest (which are good), i suspect fuel pooling in the manifold - adjusted handbrake (will adjust back a bit!) - adjusted clutch pedal - adjusted gear linkage - replaced rotten boot seals with subaru legacy door seals (they looked likely and so it was!) - swapped the horns for a working one (ex same alfa) - ordered some spare key blanks, just need them cut - ordered a speedometer drive, but it seems to swap it out the tranny has to drop almost all the way out , so wont be doing that for a while! - cleaned some old mouse nests out of the long vents from the bumper to the firewall I need to build a carport to keep this and/or the 125 in so that will probably be next.. As for this, just keep driving it, but could do with a few upgrades maybe - exhaust (more noisier - sounded awesome when the back fell off at nationals and wasnt that noisy with just the manifold) - will replace the big middle muffler with a resonator or straight pipe and see how we go - triple sideys (one day) - pointsless ignition (maybe sooner)

Yeah man. Its in storage ill grab a few photos next time im up there. Ill never install it on anything but it did 'work' untill i got a weber

crane

fell engine

heh, that DMS has got around. You need the factory carb linkage from the firewal to carb from a 132 to run it, or fashion one from allthread and off cuts (this has worked on my twin sideys for 5 years now, lol) . IIRC the main difference between solex and DMS is the throttle butterfly direction changes from 'push' to 'pull' needing one or other of the tabs on the linkage flipping to the other side

Looks schmick. Youll need to set up a Hilux vs landy trials course. Old man used to have the Bandag Retreads test trailer behind his truck Case brand letter removal is the count of retreads. Truck casings dont really wear out (apparrently).

I got a car almost exactly between photo 2 and 3, but its a 100km round trip there and back twice for me so im pretty unkeen, and sorting me a taxi home would be more than $150. Shame as it pretty much fits your wish list. (front & rear bench seats, wagon, big windows, leaks in the rain....) Free bumps tho, hope someone closer might be keen. What sort of music? (i probably havnt heard of it...)

cheers man, already bought a big wedge of other 2300 treasure he was selling and had the HG on the ol' watchlist. I presume he tripped over the pile of parts that was i assume originally in the boot of a 2300 sedan he sold last year New waterpumps are still available from europe for cheap (fitted to teh 4 cylinder 1500 version of this engine in polski125 cars and other fiat models of the era). Actually a lot of parts are pretty easy to find if you know what else they were used in - eg brakes are Girling and used in Jags, Maseratis, Astons, Ferrarris and detomaso Panteras. (Searching the jag parts numbers being the trick to finding the bargains!) Oil pumps and filters are used on most 60-70s Fiats from the 2 cyl 500 to the earliy 1400cc twin cams, etc. Just 2300 specific engine parts like pistons, head gaskets, bearings etc are tricky, and very expensive (the 2300 coupes with the same chassis and running gear are 'baby ferrari' money, 50k euros+!) . And body parts are just unobtainium.

new proportioning valve with one new line to the diff flexi (other one is from teh master and thats a hoist job, so nope!) - i slotted the adjustment slot a bit more than factory so it may even have enough rotation to work with the lowered suspension now. You can also see the end of the 'new' (i mean better) hand brake cable from my parts stash featuring intact dust boots and slightly less used new pinion seal in. New Remsa pads and discs, the old discs are ok, but the old pads were very sticky from when i was having caliper leaks ages ago. Id suspect the brake issues were: - sticky pads - master was a bit grogey - maybe old proportioning valve - everything else is nice to do and i may as well since ive got the bits now The blue HEL brake lines i installed a while ago. The calipers dont leak, so Ive theft them well enough alone! Also wanged in some lower rear shackle bushes, these were the only ones that needed replacing, lucky cause i only these ones to use - i got a 10 pack cheap, they fit the 2300 too but it used 4, so 4 still left!. Ended up with quite a pile of old and crusty stuff replaced Nearly ready to go back in, Just need to bleed them now. I have a few other things on the list to do including pondering the following questions: - why does the battery keep going flat? (ignition switch needs rewiring i think) - why do the tyres keep going flat? (time to swap the rims for another set) - why does my Italian car that lives at the beach like to rust? (time to extend the garage)

Now the 2300 is pretty much done, it can move outside. so the 125 can get some long overdue attention. Since the shameful display on drag day (the brakes incident on the motorway) Its been started and moved around a bit but not driven anywhere. I have been collecting bits for a brake refresh tho. Fronts seem fine so concentrating on the rear. Most of the hoses etc from ladapower.com, hard line set from autoricambi.us and diff seal, pads, discs, regulator and master from fiatparts.co.nz Started with dropping this, oh yeah, the diff pinion seal is leaking too... hard brake lines are definitely grotty and a bit rusty, got a full set to suit a 124 spider cheap from the states - so far so good. bench bleeding the new master with old diff lines worked out very well! I had to replace the hoses with slightly longer ones as the new master has top entry tangs on it instead of side ones like the old one cleaned out the reservoirs and greased the pedal and booster pivots, new master on old booster, new vacuum hose to inlet manifold and one way valve thing. I should probably change out the front hard lines but they are actually fine, as were the rear ones to be fair. Maybe one day...

Do you have carbs already? I have 2 manifolds (one in use, other has dizzy scoop removed, pending dizzyless ignition 'one day'...) They pop up on Tme now and again, around the $200 mark, 125T specific and NZ made NZDM yo! I also have a 124 'waffle' fannymould for IDF downdrafts i would sell but there may be strut clearance issues? (have never fitted it up so not sure)

PO may have hooked it up wrong then? The sucking thing should be getting either filtered air , OR be hooked up to a vacuum diapham (and therefore blocked off unless you have a vac advance dizzy and therefore sucking is adding extra air in that it shouldnt be getting)

Given its location i would guess that is the fuel return? Or maybe a vent for the fuel bowl

ugh, solex. Get a weber owl. I think the sucking inlet is to the base of the air filter (there is a big (crank breather) and small (this) flange on the base of the filter housing) 3 adjustment screws or two? 1 should be idle mix screw, the other should be throttle stop. third one? IDK Step 1 adjust idle mix screw till you get it halfway between the fastest idle just before it drops revs when you screw it in a bit more (leanest fastest idle) and when idle speed drops when you wind it out a bit more (richest fastest idle) Step 2 adjust throttle stop screw for appropriate revs (my feeling is this is the one doing the sucking noise as the vacuum increases/bypasses some restriction or orifice) repeat steps 1 and 2 ad infinitum in ever finer adjustments untill you dial in the leanest point (mix) it will idle at your spec engine speed or untill you reach your bothered threshold. (also step zero, ignition timing - i find these engines like a bit more than factory advance but no more than 36deg all in, and they run way better warm (warm = fan cycled at least twice)