kicker

Nice Also Prius looks lush, well done

Wear u get ur tintz cuz? Window Magic?

Try tyrestretch.com

Ooh ooh a Howard V-twin?

Cool, will keep researching the soft side before committing, I don't need to do it but it would be fun to suss out Found this earlier #define SPEED 0x351 /* 351h 8 45 00 00 00 00 75 7B 10 100 1795 Geschwindigkeit speed h351, Geschwindigkeit, 8 byte, 100ms - byte 0: h00 vorwaerts, h02 rueckwaerts - byte 1/2: Geschwindigkeit - byte 4/5: Wegstreckenimpuls which roughly translates to h351, speed, 8 bytes, 100ms - byte 0: h00 forward, h02 backward - byte 1/2: speed - byte 4/5: distance pulse and also ID 0x351. Speed is contained in Byte 2. Calculation is (Speed = (buf[2] * 256) + (buf[3]-1)) / 190; )

Cheers for the info, very useful! The teensy sounds like a good unit. Canbus datarate for the drivetrain (which this stuff is on) is 500kbps max, Convenience and Infotainment are 100kbps max. I have dug out a few packet ID's so far from others sniffing them out, will keep snooping to see what I can find.

I have some questions for the wizards. I am wanting to fiddle with the suspension control unit in my Audi wag, it runs an air system where suspension heights can be selected but at certain speed thresholds the control unit will adjust the height itself. I'm wanting to find a way to stop this so I can have a manual adjustment only option. The road speed is provided via the canbus and by a redundant direct wire into the control unit. Is it possible to create a box (e.g. arduino) to intercept and modify the canbus road speed signal? (I would only be looking to switch between 2 options, either pass through or replace it with a fixed signal, say one that translates to 40kph). I'm guessing the direct wire could be disconnected based on what I have read so far. Chur

Still Beatin' Tried out a Daytona red cdi the other week, definitely made it run smoother, no noticeable power or speed increase and would also miss occasionally, enough to kill the engine if it was idling. Any clue what's up? It is a slightly unusual setup in that it is a DC CDI where factory is AC, it's wired through a relay directly to the battery, was wondering if the marginally smaller stator not providing enough juice? AF07 AF27

There is Absolute Upholstery on Home St in town. They recovered the seat on an old metal chair for me and did a good job. I saw a Porsche 356 and a bagged Chev C10 in there once, they may be pricier being in town.

Not hard, the one I used was just a universal one from Japan, I bought the biggest I could find which was still only about 1.3m wide

If taking to a fella get them to chuck a couple dowells in to locate the head concentrically on the cylinder, head bolts are a bit sloppy.

Can relate with project disillusionment, my Cedric now has a new home. A long long time ago I can still remember how My project used to make me smile And I knew if I had my chance That I could give it some sweet stance And maybe I'd be happy for a while But 2018 made me shiver With every reg on hold I'd apply for NZTA mail on the doorstep I couldn't take one more step I can't remember if I cried When I thought of all the OS stickers applied But something touched me deep inside The day the project died I think the Starlet deserves one more shot though, it's a sweet project

I like header wrap to keeps temps down and for hiding my ugly exhaust fab. It only needs to last until you put a Barra in it ready for dragweek/wagweek

Was gonna say take your kid with you to get the plate, AA ladies can't resist

Try harder https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-NGK-Copper-Core-Spark-Plug-B-4H-B4H-4110/362312739613?epid=1641803331&hash=item545b85ab1d:g:P-YAAOSwq7lbXw~j:rk:1:pf:0

https://www.colemans-suzuki.co.nz/ngk-standard-spark-plugs B4H, 3rd row down

Another shit update. I bought one of those $9.50 pit bike exhausts for something to start with. It fit ok as it was but had a lot of angles going on so I cut and rotated the header a few degrees to bring it closer to the engine and make it more horizontal, then cut off the bent up section on the end, flipped it around and welded it on straight then cut a slash to tidy up the old bend. Will weld some nuts on it to use the stock exhaust-swingarm bracket then that should do for now/forever

Another small job is my new side covers, I was keen to have some but not keen for the factory tumour size so they got trimmed down. They'll get painted up with something particular I have in mind

My tail light is LED funnily enough, I guess because of the unusual shape also have a TrailTech already on its way, wish I'd seen @My name is Russell post about selling some, been waiting 4 weeks now haha

Gonna use this guy The fist part is a similar size to what is left of the mount, gonna weld a plate in there and tap some holes to screw the light to, might even use some glue as the screws are pretty small, m3/4 I think. What kinda trouble are your lights having?

Choice, cheers chaps, that'll be the go then. I need to get my vice setup so I can do it and a few other jobs.

Have cut the springs but not shortened the shock shaft so they are a wee bit (massively) uncaptive on droop. I saw a dude on instagram shorten his by running the shaft thread down further then lopping the end off so thought I'd give the same a go. I assume these would be hard chromed so grinding that off first would make it easier?

I have been working on a tail light license plate mount recently, the first version looked a bit average and left a large space between the light and fender. So I decided to chop up the original mount, looks better. I think I'll still chop the rear fender off one day but it'll stay for now.

460 squid for backplates! How many dags were part of that deal?

Cheers dudes! Initial plans for seat are similar to my first one, make a base from fibreglass and use some closed cell foam but this time I'll use some magnets to stick it to the top of the tank. It'll just be the same shape as the top of the tank. Will try out a sissy bar too