Valiant

Joe; you spelled doughnuts wrong.

Limited slip diff! Yes. It's the small Ford dream. I have a torque biasing one, I was sceptical about them but they are awesome.

@MightyJoe, please tell me you have some Princess calipers, mk3 Capri rotors, and mk2 Escort sport drums. The fucked seal issue is because the master cylinder seals move further in the bore than they have previously. They run through all the crap that has accumulated there and die. As yowser said the seals were dead men walking regardless of what fluid you use.

Gday mate. Re multiple belt pulleys I turned up a basic hub for my a15, then bolted a couple of old water pump pulleys I got from a wreckers yard to it. Worked out well.

@MACKAZ I was just going through my Impco lpg carb book looking for something else and spotted the formula to work out the cfm of your engine at a given RPM. It's CID x RPM / 1728 /2 x .85 So 250 CID x 5000RPM (Optimistic) = 1250000 1250000 / 1728 = 723.4 723.4 / 2 =361.7 361.7 x .85 =307.4 Your 4.0 will sip about 310 CFM at 5000 rpm I'd put the 600cfm on TradeMe and put the money toward a more suitable carb. As a side note. Big carbs on small engines tend to run lean. They dont generate enough vacuum in the venturis to draw fuel out of the main jets. People put large jets in them to try and overcome this but the idle and transition becomes very unstable.

Great news everybody! Things are going swimmingly. Air cleaner modified and painted. Cold air duct fitted. Vapour line made out of inch tube, painted and fitted. Liquid line run as neatly as I could. Tidied up the boot, fitted the tank, splashed some black paint about. everything ducted up. Fuel cap is done. Best of all. It's a runner! Fired up straight away. I'm super pleased! It only took a three months/A decade.

Stashed gun pics please.

I really like the two tone paint on this VC, I'm thinking of getting my roof repainted the same burgundy as my wheels are painted.

Phase two continues. Things on the LPG front are going well but slowly. Fuel tank is mounted it has to be on a 30 degree angle to fill properly which is a bit of a pain but it's done and I can still close the boot. Filler made up and sorted. Regulator mounted and partly plumbed up. I have some steel bends ordered to make a vapor line from the regulator to the carb, that's the next thing to make. Gas carb is all fitted up, kick down and throttle connected all ready to go. I found I could fit an old Valiant air cleaner to it which is great, it looks nice and stock, seals well and with a bit of work it can have a nice cold air duct like I made for the 6 cylinder one. I'll give the air cleaner a coat of paint before I use it. So that's that. Except. . . At the beginning of lock down I was thinking how cool it would be to have a manual gearbox with an overdrive top gear in this car. I looked around at various solutions, thought quite Seriously about a Toyota R150 but was advised the ratios were no good for a car. I was looking into the R150 ratios when @sheepers made me an offer I couldn't refuse for a R154. As luck would have it someone in Te Awamutu makes R154 to big Chrysler bell housings so I blew all the money and brought one. It looks really good, looking forward to using it. The car is going to take a lot of cutting and welding to fit the big box but I'm confident it will be worth it. Thanks to every involved in getting the gearbox from Auckland to Christchurch!

I saw you out and about in this recently. Looks very smart, I really like those wheels.

@Slacker_Sam. 2500 PI triumph is the conversion Jane's car needs!

Sounds like a manufacturing defect or similar, personalty I'd ask for a refund or new tie rod ends. How about some pictures of your Valiant? What model is it?

Is it designed to go in the tailstock and cut threads on a bar held in your lathe chuck Bazza? Looks like you've done a great job of making it.

G'day @CUL8R, Yeah Garry is a GC he doesn't specalize in LPG tuning but he seems to like a challenge so took it on. Yeah we had quite a long chat about his Challenger I strongly encouraged him to get it going.

Woo hoo. Got this going over lock down. Put a new set of Eagle HT leads on as the old ones were tracking. Dropped the car off at the dyno shop on Sunday night, the drive there was a bit fraught. The car backfired into the intake and shot the caps off a couple of vacuum ports, I pulled the overflow hose off the radiator and plugged the hose tails with it on the side of the road, called it good and carried on. Was worried all yesterday. But. Good news. All went well! Gary adjusted things to 231.8 hp at about 4700 rpm and 274 ft lbs at 4700 rpm, Has max torque from about 3000 to 4700. It's 30 hp more than previous. The G3 works awesomely. Apparently it has ended up with a very unusual advance curve feels like it works well though, very well. Apparently there is about %20 driveline loss with a dyno like this so my 231 hp eguates to about 275 flywheel hp, on par with an E48 Charger! but with a 4/1bbl carb and sausage cooking gas! Anyway heres some pics of a couple of graphs. Apparently the hub dyno wouldn't fit into my low wheel arches with out the body being jacked up which caused the dyno to rattle a bit. I'm told thats why the line is a bit wobbly. Wobbly lines or not, it goes really really well now. Smooth, powerful, and lots of torque. Super pleased. The yellow line is the shit original "rebuilt motor" Red is the re rebuilt motor and Link G3 looking after timing.

Damm. Sucks to be the guy in the Clubsport. He got beaten by a Colt and an Anglia!

Good timing. I was thinking about this car the other day. Is it still going well?

Fun fact, early valiants aren't 5x114. Looks like there is enough room to redrill them.

Sawmills. Detroits. You need something like this Alex.

Well that all worked out well, better than I hoped it would to be honest. On to phase two of this project. As I said previously I want to get this running on LPG. I love LPG, and here's why. It's frugal, clean, and old engines love running on it. Sadly the filling network is slowly shrinking but I'm going to take the chance and convert anyway. So here's what I have. One 80 liter tank I picked up off trade me. it's a good volume and an OK size for the boot. It takes up a bit of room but this isn't a car I'd use for boot space. I've had the tank re tested and it's good to go for another ten years. I've clocked the fittings round to where I want them and put 20l in it at the local LPG pump. I want to do the filler like the VG filler. The original filler cap grafted onto the LPG filler cap mounted in the factory spot. Next I'll use this Impco L model regulator in the engine bay, it's the one I had on the VG first off so I know it works. And on the motor an Impco 425 gas carb. These are cool, basically a very large one barrel CV carb that meters LPG vapor. they are designed to fit a Holley 4bbl air cleaner and to bolt straight to the throttle plate of a Holley 4bbl carb. I have the throttle plate from an old 600 Vacuum secondary. Someone has drilled the throttle butterflies in the past but I've soldered the holes up and it's ready to use. I've cleaned the rust off the throttle butterflies since this photo. So there we go, all the elements of a half decent LPG conversion. I have a few odds and ends coming from Australia to tie it all together. So join me as I convert my car to run on a fuel that died with the 80s! Edit: Head over here for a sharn, and a cup of tea. I'll put the jug on now.

Well, hell. Who would have thought that blocking a third of your radiator would make your car overheat? I obviously didn't think it would. Moved the cooler into the inner guard and made a cover for it up. I didn't take a picture ,you can use your imagination. I dropped the battery tray off to my friends at the truck painters who sand blasted and painted it for me. I bolted it to the inner guard as far forward as I could fit it, re did the battery leads, made a clamp and called it good. Its pretty close to the exhaust manifold but it doesn't seem to be a problem, much neater having the Battery under the bonnet. I pulled all the old battery box out, welded up the holes for the "P" clamps holding the lead and called it good. Cleaned the plugs, put some gas in the tank, primed the carb and got it going. Nice. Went for a very slow drive around the neighborhood, (slow speed driving was when it used to overheat). Result! the temp never went over 180 deg F. I'm so pleased with this! I spent about half an hour creeping around and not a problem at any stage. So that's phase one of the project refresh this out of the way. On to phase two. So to recap. Why did it fuck batteries? Because I crushed them into the bolts in the battery tray. Why did it run out of fuel to the carb? Because I put the one way valve in the fuel pump in back to front. Why did it overheat? Because I blocked the radiator core with a trans cooler. Lessons learned. Here's a couple of pics of some shit Aussie cars. Edit. The exhaust seems to be good, not hitting the floor, the front pipes are pretty close to the ground, I'll see how it goes. Also the smaller wheels and tyres are a great poor mans diff ratio change, it's much better off the mark, a bit shit at motorway speed but I have something to sort that out. . .

Yeah fuck cars. You could start a brass band if the chime business is a flop.

Do you think the problem is solved?

Those photos are so good, is that the game I see in one? The only disappointment is there are no pics of it with Titans.

@moparmuppet, thanks for the tips there, from memory it has a flowkooler water pump, I cant remember what thermostat I put in it, If the problem persists with the cooler moved I'll get one like you recommended. I'm really hopeful that moving the cooler will be the ticket, once I have a battery and go for a drive I'll post the result!