mjrstar

@cletus was describing the exhaust paint on one of his project threads recently.

If its anything like my stock B18cr civic it loves the high rpm, if I'm coming up to a corner and it's not quite worth the upshift I'll just sit it right up the top of rev range.. The most I have seen on the datalogs is 9200rpm with the limiter set at 8750, it's pretty easy to brush the limiter when you are trying to squeeze the best out of the little n/a.. Although fitting a sequential shift light (if you haven't got one already) has reduced this and makes for one less thing to think about... I guy I race with ran the f20c gearbox in his escort and did mention some mis-shift problems, he has since gone a $$ sequential quaife..

Aluminium will be fine, I ran one of those fenix radiators in my evo for a decade or so with no issues, the drain bung was sub par in my opinion, so I would suggest finding a friendly aluminium welder to weld an An fitting onto the drain port and fit a cap.

I would weld a 1/3 piece of tube in the dump pipe to separate the turbine exit from the wastegate exit up to where it flanges to the exhaust housing. I am going to go with not clever as its going to lack adhesion.

Oh I'm not suggesting 'excessive' but I like less travel than is on offer on a perfectly operating braking on just about any oem factory car I have driven. Just like drive by wire throttle can have some lag, or even a cable throttle with too much slack from the bracket to butterfly you provide an input and you don't get quite enough result. It right up with reducing clutch engagement windows - man I can't stand a long lazy clutch window. This method is not designed to mask excessive pad knock off or a sticky caliper slider, or any other defectice component in the system. All it means is braking starts to occur as soon as you go near the pedal. Say you need grandma to have 15mm of pedal travel because she's not paying attention, I would prefer 3 or 4mm because I am. Especially if one has happened to increase brake caliper piston area or piston count. The one exception is a ferrari 458 which I drove once, which felt like it had a brake priming system (no idea if they actually do or not) as soon as you went near the pedal with your big toe there was some braking effort on offer. Very cool I appreciate your experience with oem and race braking setups leaves you with a solid understanding of what works for you.

For sure, you do notice the difference, it will require a touch more pedal effort but not to the point that you need both feet to stop the car.. The deadband in the pedal does exist as you first apply pressure to bring the pads up to the discs, minimising this is all good (in my opinion)..

If you were looking at a pedal box setup or a clutch master /slave combo I would be suggesting retaining the factory size.. But as a road car is designed to be driven by many different groups, factor this in, a fraile elderly woman should be able to provide sufficient pedal effort to bring the car to a halt.. You will not need the legs of a power lifter to get the car to pull up with a small increase in master diameter, especially with a booster, if you were to be deleting the booster once again you would need be far more careful about master cylinder diameter. I run minimum 1 inch master - ideally 1 1/16 on a variety of my cars, my mx5, my old evo, the civic. This is an awesome upgrade if you enjoy a bit of spirited driving. It inspires so much confidence when the brake pedal is right there without anything in the way of soft or dead travel. Edit: I think the one on my starlet is off a late 90s camry, was a straight bolt on to the factory Starlet booster.

I paid $3500 for a reasonably tidy nz new 2007 cl9 accord with 190 ks in it a couple of years ago. Not a bad car actually. I'm sure a dereg rear or side damage car has to be less than a grand?

The bigger master will be great, you will end up with a very slightly firmer and higher initial bite point on the pedal, both of which are good in my opinion. Don't worry about the increase in pedal effort in a car with factory pedal ratio and a booster.

Nice work on the shifter, one thing I noticed as I started to adjust shifter throw in my racecar was when the fore /aft throw was under abot 90mm it became much more difficult to cleanly select a gear at pace.. I settled on 100mm and its awesome.

2 litre mivec from an fto will be around the 200hp mark and sound decent.. People probably giving these things away, a mate has one in a mirage for his wife (and him occasionally) to race.

Hey, Its 2 layers with some stiffening ribs on the back plus a small section of the plastic dash frame (including a bit to hook up the demister vent in the drivers side) & to mount to the factory dash bar. Could definitely be lighter by running a dedicated rollcage dash bar and using thin wall aluminium tube to make it mount / clamp to the cage dash bar. The weave is a bit of a bitch to lay over compound curves, but close enough was good enough for me. It looks much better after a sand back and a couple of coats of satin clear instead of the high gloss clear. The fine twill? is supposed to help with drapability but someone with first hand experience might be able to chime in.

A little trick I have used on a borderline hard to start car it to use a set of toasty hot sparkplugs from another car that's just been running / the oven.

All of this, I started by making some moulds in fibreglass to figure out what works and what doesn't... Its not as daunting as you might think.

No charge and weak power steer, not something as simple as drive belt slippage?

Same issues with my old link plus, the fuel pump would stay on... I ended up switching the power side of the relay as well as the ecu pull to ground to solve the issue...

I reckon a shallow angle merge is the way to go, from a looks and flow perspective. You can mig /tig the easy access stuff then the tricky to access bit can be arc welded..

Is the coolant expansion tank fluid level rising / falling when hot cold?

Hang on a second! super dumb question... do you have the rad plumbing the right way? Water pump suction to bottom of rad and thermost to top?

I reckon since almost none of the hardware ( engine size, radiator size, fans etc...) has changed you are on the right track with bleeding.. I fought similar temp issues on the 4g63 in the mx5 for weeks, it would rocket to North of 105 degrees very quickly, no amount of fan did anything to stop the skyrocketing temp, in fact it would climb to 112-115 once the engine was shut off... in the end it was an airlock, I made a bleeder arrangement at the back of the block using a brake bleed nipple. The bleed point is permanently installed, to bleed you crack it open and plumb some clear hose into the header tank, my temp issues have disappeared even with boost its rock solid. Also you haven't changed the pulley ratio of the water pump - leading to it running at a greatly reduced rpm? ( sorry if this has been asked - or are these cambelt drive?) I don't quite grasp from your photos exactly how the coolant gets from the back of the engine (is it that crossover thingee between the heads)to the front. Edit: had a quick look through your thread.. where did this welded up bit go to originally?

Dynasaurus.

Very cool project, that has come together amazingly fast. We'll done. Interested to know how that td05 spools behind the 4.2, and what sort of boost it is capable of.. Do you end up putting new bearings and seals in the turbo or just run it as is?

I don't know a lot about diesels but I'd be looking at camshaft and fuel pump timing. I once had an engine with numerous twink marks on the cam pullies, crank pully and the belt itself. It ran okish but was down on torque, turned out the cams were 4 teeth out..

If you want to go faster at the drags and have limited intercooler sizing something like this co2 spray kit would be an option to consider. (or better still build your own) https://designengineering.com/intercooler-sprayer-kit/ As mentioned above if you rely on water meth injection and tune to capacity you run the risk of a meltdown..

The car is 165kg each side in the rear, the arm ratio for the wheel to the shock is around 3:2 from memory. I started with an 8kg rear, went down to 6kg, then added the 80lb helper spring. It is 'soft' but grips up well compared to the 8kg spring. No rear sway bar connected at present for hillclimb events. If i ever take it back to the track id reconnect the rear bar again.