mjrstar

If you are struggling with too much heat on thin aluminum and your machine has a pulse function it's worth having a tinker with. The other thing is when playing with small bits of scrap they heat soak very fast and behave differently to a larger part. (far more likely to sag out) Once the work piece is too hot its time to do something else for a bit.

Awesome time, quicker than my 1800 civic..

You are most likely all over this, I didn't see a photo of the back side of the HRB, but one thing I learnt the hard way in a retrofit of a very similar looking Saab HRB into the mx5, is that the back side of the unit needs a solid base. As the rear cover where you gain access to service the hydraulics is a crimped in disc. This will not withstand hydraulic pressure without being sandwiched so it can't move.

Is that turbo return point below the oil level line? My preference is to have the drain point above the oil level in the sump if at all possible.. Although in saying that if you haven't had any issues to date its probably sweet as!

^ good advice from kpr and driftnmaz.. There are a bunch of options for oversizing the internal flapper of the Ford /Garrett exhaust housings and off the shelf uprated actuators too. 7 ports into one can be a little tricky to fabricate (6 plus the waste gate) If I was on a budget I'd be looking for a plain bearing borgwarner s200 from a John deere or similar out of the usa rather than an aftermarket China spec falcon turbo.. Preferably with the green paint on it if possible. T4 flange also gives you a bit more real-estate to plumb up those 7 pipes. Although in saying that if a Ford 3576 popped up cheap enough I reckon it'd do the job, with an oversized flapper.. Are you after a street able daily, or a weekend type car.. I'm not really up with 1/4 mile times but assume you'll need low to mid 300kw for a 12 sec pass in a full weight Commodore? Depending on 60ft and transmission setup.

Garrett 3576 off an fg is a smidgen smaller than the 3582. Also Barra has dual vct to assist with spool, and we all know that the wizardry to be able to swing the cams is very benificial.. My falcon is at full torque / lots of boost at around 2300rpm.

Smart fella like yourself will have it done in a couple of hours. It's been a while but I think they might be left hand thread for compressor nut. https://turbobits.co.nz/products/mitsubishi-td05hr-turbo-rebuild-repair-kit-lancer-evo-4-5-6-7-8-9-4g63t Just mark the compressor wheel to nut to shaft orientation before you start, and make sure it turns freely when you are done. Plus if you have clocked either of the housings from the oem pinned positions mark these too to make life easy.

Or maybe bore a hole a decent sized hole in the the end and see if the slots make any difference then. I assume its boundary layer/ surface friction causing the drop in flow. Assuming the calculated total surface area = inlet pipe diameter.

Aaw geez, I had a soft spot for green swirl and was hoping for a groundbreaking revolutionary new intake design taking over the world..

Generally there should be 12v at the injector with the ignition on and they are fired by pull to ground through the ecu. So maybe find the positive side, and see if it has volts back to an engine or body earth. I haven't followed this too closely, but are the injectors good known units from a running car. It is possible to 'varnish' or crud up the injectors if the were the ones sitting for years from the wrecker motor? Does tacho come off the stop when cranking, if so I'd shelve other work on the dizzy etc.. Wife's old corolla I didn't know had an immobiliser, it looked like a boring old black key with no buttons or anything on it. I had a spare key cut that turned out to be good for unlocking the door and making the engine turn over. Hence suggesting about the key thing. /put some petrol in it. Or you have missed an earth terminal off under the manifold near the starter motor.

Wife had one of those for a few years, great car, they have rfid or whatever in the key and will turn over with dead/broken key but not start.. Otherwise power feed / fuse for the injectors would be where I would start. Most likely with a screwdriver on the injectors to listen to them click or volt meter to see them energized. I know little of the automatics but I would suspect that it wouldn't turn over at all if the inhibitor switch wasn't met. / put some petrol in it.

You re-make a nicer looking version of those plastic push in bits out of aluminum with a dash fitting jammed on the top. I had after posting considered the o-ring option Richie von Snoozin suggests which I think could well be a nice addition.

Assuming you are only looking for the look of stainless braid rather than any performance gain on the non pressurized side, you'd probably get away with some rubber lined stainless braided hose and clamps. Personally I'd run a rubber hose for this application and call it job done. Another option would be a machined stub that presses in with the - 3an or whatever nipple you desire threaded /welded to that, perhaps cooled slightly to make it an interference fit on installation.

Maybe not so much for a road car but one thing that intrigued me for a rwd race car like a starlet or escort would be to drop in a sprint car style quick change rear end.. There will be a reason I haven't thought of why this is a dumb idea, but man you can pour some cash into shortening an oem diff if you are outsourcing all the work.

Sweet, I thought you might get away with the shorter easier to find axle?

Does a 6 stud to 4 stud hubcentric bolt on adapter solve your problem? That's what I did on my kp with hilux diff. I used a land cruiser disc and rx7 caliper in the braking department then used 2 left hand side r30 skyline handbrake cables.

Greetings fine sir, Probably a dumb question, but do you run clamps on the push lock fittings? I originally didn't when I first started playing with push lock stuff but I do now... There are a few options like a single use crimp style or these clip type ones I have as snipped below..

Great progress, I don't have much to add but I found installation and removal of the bitch pin (shift linkage roll pin) on my b series honda was easiest with a small g-clamp and a torx bit that would locate down into the pin..I taped a socket to the g clamp foot for the pin to exit in to.. Also don't overtighten the through bolt for the gear lever where it attaches to the shift linkage..

Input signal will be the same, I run an eg ecu, in my EK with dc2 engine and an Ep3 instrument cluster. It's all electrical Lego.

Also Ling, my Honda yesterday over about 2min 45 seconds at Golden cross hillclimb. Rpm plus iat and speed. Also I have a pair of used 225 45 15 nankang ar1 for free if you want them.

Reads a little high on the top end, like passed 9000rpm maybe where 9200 would hand out if it existed, and my data log would show more like 8950..

I have the digital output from my ek civic ecu, tacho is probably within about 300 rpm I reckon.

Interesting, I saw that thing in an earlier picture but assumed it was just a cover thingee.

I threw those bits away(they only bolt on) and stitched on some box section with captive nuts. Cheaper and better than me trying to find replacement bits and then them breaking.

Hang on a second I thought I was the plasma man. Can there be more than one?