BlownCorona

double post

^ this i knew i didnt want that garbage aerosol shit, but i figured an engine reconditioner may have it in bulk/cheaper otherwise yes ill be doing a brush on product, probably see what spray store have in their mistinted 2k pile as per barts advice! i really only want black though so a litre is hardly gonna brake the bank. have messaged PK from kennelly and hes happy to do the work. any advice for alloy heads? ive searched and searched and kind of come to the conclusion that ill just leave it and hope you cant see too much of it when its all furnished.

while I've only met him once, he is actually good friends with some of my good friends so i might need to go have a chat. i mentioned it to him i think, though i really didn't like sounding like i was trying to get a cheap deal just cause i know someone who knows him, but multiple recommendations probably means hes also the right person for the job regardless.

HI all Im trying to gain some traction on my 18rg rebuild and have come to the conclusion that i selecting a part, cleaning it, and putting it back on the shelf isn't doing it. I need a block to put those parts into. I have a good block here and once upon a time it was decked and honed, but it has been left ever since so i need to redo both of those tasks. what im looking for; - clean the block thoroughly, i assume in a hot tank, and hopefully this will remove the old engine paint? - deck the block - i want the absolute bare minimum taken off as i dont want to be gaining any more compression or upsetting chain tension - it has alrady been cut down 40 thou. - hone the cylinders, they are just stained and i would like them to be ready to take a run-in. plus the original hone job cross hatching isnt anywhere near steep enough. again bare minimum. bonus If they had the ability to recoat the block in a nice quality engine enamel afterwards for a not too extortionate fee, i would be very please. What Im looking for is a workshop that wont take heaps of material off just cause its easier, they are really hard to get and that would put this block into the scrap bin, but also isn't going to cost an absolute fortune because im building an 18rg not a race engine.

i dont do instagram or much of any social media anymore. feel free to PM me on here, theres probably 10x as much info in my head than i committed to paper because im pretty useless.

holy shit that was a story. A+ scary af, would not recommend. it must be an extreme amount of load having the earth hold the keel and the ocean hold the both, while disagreeing on direction. maybe they were just too long/wrong shape, seems like it would be hard to engineer out without alot of extra weight, plus it might have sunk faster or been torn apart if it didn't rip out? but a boat builder is not on my cv.

its not so much the benefit of the AN barbs, they are basically the same. the benefit would come from having an AN b-nut and flare fittings, which have be undone with basic tools. you have the exact parts on your fuel tank so i expect the following will be telling you how to suck eggs, but ill post it anyway incase its just a cant see the forrest for the trees moment. im guilt of that alot. you would install the hoses/fittings like this and there should be some adapters like this to go from whatever the pump and filter threads are to the AN standard, which would look like this or thereabouts. there are a few different options for the hose fitting from just a basic hose tail to a more involved self crimping/clamping system, but that often requires a special hose, they are really good but ive not personally used those systems. (speedflow is a common one)

sounds like your answer! though i would suggest you consider clamping them to AN fittings if the intention is that they are to be "regularly" removed. this comes from my experience in aviation but really youd probably be fine with both options, just give it a think/price up the fittings. this is a super cool car btw, havnt commented much/at all but been following, keep it up edit - i just went back to look at the pump rig, that one serrated hose tail, if the hose is sized correctly should be very hard (sometimes ive had to cut them off) to remove even unclamped, just another thing to add the mix. the black single flare style one will be less grippy with tradeoffs in security ect.

those are pretty much the same type of clip but they pop undone and are less 'adjustable' in terms of tension. perhaps the parts you want to be removable could be clamped onto AN fittings opposed to the hosetail threaded right into the unit? i personally dont like the reusable crimp clips for fuel since i worry they might unpop during use/not get clipped in properly, this is probably not founded in anything real, just a feeling. they do however beat worm clamps any day! edit - those merc clips do actually have a little crimp loop to ensure good tension, so thats pretty good if you do go down that route.

Norma crimp clips all day! unless you expect to regularly need to remove them?

a wof shop that packs a sad over a car having no paint (and clearly displaying everything, hiding literally nothing) is not worth returning to anyway. also i dont think that spot weld repair was done by a professional lol

this was my thought too. except slightly different. ive watched old boy pros work and its amazing, my recommendation would be to find an old panel beater and just ask them to come over and spend 30 minutes on it. (you remove all the bits so they have clear access)

if you get very stuck, i may be able to help with destructive testing one of the flywheel bolts to find out what its characteristics are. we certainly have all the gear to do this at work, but i would need to ask one of the guys who has the skills to help with the testing (and what exactly to test) but its all proper calibrated test equipment so might help in the unlikley outcome you cant verify what they are made of an easier way.

lol the head wont even sit flat on the block with the valves closed and the piston at TDC. off to work out how to cut valve pockets i go.

oxidisation or contaminants could be a factor too. see if you can give the pins a gentle scrub up

YES! just as the prophecy foretold. also im really glad thats all it took to fix it, love it when its something easy!

thats a questionably high bill for just having a look. anyway, is that dash factory? the digi dash option in the *s13* crowns required different senders for most of the stuff to work.

this is so bad its circled back around to being awesome. real authentic Japanese style of not giving a fuck.

Yeah but it's been dormant for like two years due to pandemic/house hunting/undiagnosed turn diagnosed and treated adhd. The discussion thread has a bunch of good conversation around what I'm doing - putting 20r pistons in am 18rg block to compensate for the block being machined for high compression and to also decompress the engine a little for mild boost.

after thinking about my above post, not knowing quite what ive got, this suggesting is also relevant to my interests.

i don't want it that close. but i don't know if the combo i have is going to give me what i want, i may need to machine valve reliefs. but i absolutely didn't consider just not doing it up tight. thanks everyone!

dumb questions as title suggests, do i have to waste a head gasket in order to check piston valve clearance? i unfortunately dont have an old one, and new ones aren't cheap or even really available locally. surely there must be some tricks of the trade?? 18R-G for reference

thats not a cat, thats a portrait of the person who repaired the tank

with a username like that, i really hope it turns out to be spark plugs lol the prophecy will be fulfilled

sweet workshop signage