slacker.cam

I think I disagree with Spence and UJ. Your PCV valve isn't stuffed. If you have done the suck/blow test then you can be confident that it's installed around the correct way and at least sealing reasonably well. The problem is in the setup now that your motor sees positive (w.r.t. atmospheric) pressures in the inlet tract where your current breather system vents to. You're 100% right in your logic that you need to vent the sump to a point before the turbo to ensure that it is always under vacuum. Either that or vent to atmosphere and deal with the slight performance detriment. In addition to this (I have no knowledge of rotaries either so don't take this as gospel) it sounds like you do need to block up the ports on your center plates to stop the vacuum leak. If you decide to vent to atmosphere then you don't need to worry about this aside from getting rid of the mess. Your logic sounds accurate to me with regards to the PCV valve being shut when you need it most (under boost). Most cars you see out at the race track will not run a vacuum assisted breather setup. I think the main reason they do suck it into the inlet from the factory is done is to aid emissions, not so much to increase performance. I think the extra volatiles in your oil and (in a piston engine) there being more air molecules that the crank has to push its way past don't make a very large difference at all. If it did you would see everyone at the race track sucking back in to the inlet rather than venting to atmosphere. There is always debate about this when it comes up in discussions so you'll have to decide what you do and don't care about. For me personally I'm more than happy with venting the crankcase of my piston motors to atmosphere.

Those camber paltes are pretty slick. Am I right in thinking that you added the caster adjustment up top due to moving to double wishbone? What class are you planning to race this in?

Ned, you're overcomplicating it. Just bang it together how I suggested and adjust resistor values to get the brightnesses you want.

KK, yeah you're pretty much on to it now. The bottom one is the correct technique. Except you need to add the current limiting resistors inline with each LED before it joins back up to the main wire. You could do it like your top drawing but due to the differing specification of each LED you'll end up with different brightnesses. Ie. different colour LEDs need different amounts of current to achieve the same brightness.

This is a horrible 2 sec paint drawing so hopefully it makes sense. Each LED and resistor combo is connected to the battery independently. You can view the circuit as 3 seperate circuits that just happened to be connected to the same battery.

Andy, see here and prepare to be poor forever: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86 Those suspension arms on TM are shit. shit finishing on the arms so they rust super quick and shit rod ends that will flog out instantly. avoid at all costs. You however don't need a cert for these arms as you've been told above. My Silvia has adjustable arms everywhere and these are not listed on the cert plate. Here's the direct link to T3's urathane bush set: https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86 ... 86-corolla I don't share others views about urathane bushes being unsuitable for a road car. I have never had any go squeaky on me so maybe I've just been lucky. If you want a hand getting old bushes out I can show you how. It's not too hard with some proper tools.

I have my bike in the car so no need. We could possibly convince sarah to ride it? Just text us and see where we're at when you're getting close I reckon.

I'm in. Will have to figure out how to get my bike to Onehunga though... If I can find another bike somewhere I may have a +1 too.

Just got my tickets. Looking forward to this!

What's the bizzo with tickets for this? I presume we all just buy online seperately? Where from?

This is awesome. Nice work dude. Why do pretty much all FWD vehicles have the exhaust at the front of the motor and the intake at the rear? Looking at what you've done it seems stupid to do it any other way. Maybe I'm missing something obvious?

keen. sarah's keen too.

Shit that was an impressive turnout. Even with the name tags I have no idea who half the people who showed up were. I hope all of the first timers enjoyed the night and will be back next month! Favourite cars were the two Datsun 510/1600s and the Yellowy Corona. Did that Corona have your wheels on it Snoozin? I'm looking forward to next months meet already!

Andy, maybe you could find a TRD manual for your car? Seriously though, Haynes dont do a manual for ae86s. Just download the scanned Toyota manual like the rest of the internet does and be happy. Sure it has a few missing pages and some of them are out of order but 98% of the important stuff is there. Also, I can't reiterate what KK said enough. I think with your skills and the amount of work that you're trying to do yourself that you're asking for trouble. You clearly have NO IDEA. I hate to see what was a once tidy car being ruined with melted dizzy caps, not enough bolts in the exhaust manifold, broken seals, scratched lights, etc, etc. I think it's great that you want to learn how to do all this stuff to your car but you need someone to show you how to do things correctly. Otherwise you will end up hurting yourself or your car. I'm genuinely worried about the state that you left the panda one in when you sold it. The thought of you bleeding brakes scares the shit out of me. The new owner could have a major crash and it would find its way back to you eventually. I hope you listen to what we are all saying. We have your best interests at heart (and the cars).

I was too lazy to write this. Agree with you 100%. If the groove has shit in it then you cant expect the o-ring to seal. I like to put some sealant on both sides of the paper gasket before putting it in too (the one between the two pump halves). Helps to take up any larger irregularities on the mating surfaces. If both halves of the pump are brand new then you can skip this step. Andy, what did you end up getting from Toytoa and what did you pay out of curiosity?

I'll be there for sure. Seems like a good excuse to keep driving the ae86 for a couple of days before taking it back to my shed.

There's a few really good posts in this thread about AE86 suspension setups. The front end stuff will be relevant to your interests I think.

I literally had a new ring for my Fronte motor turn up from this crowd today. They have been bought up by Franklin Engineering Services in Pukekohe now though. It cost me $50 for 1 ring for a 58mm bore piston. He said it would only be another $20 to get three instead of one. Theyre a really good crowd to deal with. Even if you are still going to make your own I would suggest giving these guys a call and asking about their machining and finishing process for interests sake. He told me and it went in one ear and out the other...

I did quite a bit of research into sealed starting batteries about a month ago and these batteries were what I decided was the best bang for buck. I'm not sure how good they are but it's likely that they have just found a Chinese SLA with good CCAs and just stuck their sticker on it. All of the Odyssey, Varley and other name brand batteries are 2-4 times the price. That doesn't really answer your question at all does it... I'm keen to get one of these for my car before Nats so maybe I could try and organise a discount for buying a few of them. I think Zep could be interested too. There was no answer when I called just now so I'll try again a bit later on.

I'm coming to this. See you guys tonight.

Looks like the consensus is to scour it and then lay down the top coat(s) which is ok. Just a bit've a mission as it's all complex geometry. There's some shit that got into the paint in a couple of areas due to the hose hitting the side of the car so there's some work to be done anyway. The bare metal was prepsoled and tack ragged even before the etch primer so it looks really good already (aside from the aforementioned bits). I use 3M pads for tidying up between coats as they conform to the surface a lot better than a piece of sandpaper. There's no primer with this job. The lads at the paint shop reckon that the etch and then top coat is fine. It's only the inside of the boot so it's not like there needs to be any build to allow sanding.

I can't make it tonight. If this rain holds off Leon and I will be getting busy inhaling isocyanates

There's 3 Estima's at PaP Anvondale at the moment. Didn't take notice of if they were manual or auto. Diffs were all F series non LSD. I can get my hands on a brand spankers W58 for just over a grand which is what I would be doing if I were in the market for another W series box.

Count me in. Need parking for trailer is the only issue. Can probably stash it at Toms if we end up staying somewhere with a poos parking situation though.

KK the pump I linked to was from the same company but it was a piston pump instead of a diaphragm pump like that one. From the Fuel Flow website I wasn't really able to determine what would lead you to want one as opposed to the other... Anyway, thanks keltik. I went and had a look at pickapart and found a Subaru Ace with an electric pump stashed underneath. From the photos that I can find on the internet it's not the same as the Brumby ones but it should still suit me just fine. Cheers guys.