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Stu

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Everything posted by Stu

  1. I really enjoy seeing photos of rust repairs for two reasons. 1) Its nice to see life breathed back into a rusty doomer, and 2) its not me doing it. Well done sir. Tig welding repairs is actually pretty good. I had to do some repairs rebuild all the panneling around some tail lights the other week and the tig worked really well.
  2. One Stop Cutting Shop in Silverdale (i has account there) then pop in here for weldy weldy
  3. I've used the aeroflow extrusion for mine as I didn't need any of the cold start injector or regulator provisions - got it from Dave @ Engineparts in Silverdale who is a top fella. To mount mine I drilled thru the side of the extrusion and milled a recess to the socket head machine screw would sit flush with the surface of the extrusion. Sorry shit photos but you get the idea. I used some solid round as the stand offs and just drilled and tapped into the end.
  4. Haha man I'd be the same - I'd want to drive the pants of it rather than stop anywhere, will be other times. B sent me the numbers from the GTZ too. Duels on the way home?
  5. Awesome work on the numbers - saw you guys heading out. Did B or Glenn twiddle the dials? Are there lots of un-intended 11's on the roads around here now?
  6. What map is currently on the link? You'll likely find that just by dialing the master fuel you'll make it run but you'll have tune from there. Got a wideband? Get it idling at 15:1 and go from there.
  7. He got a reasonable price for it - was part of a deal from memory. It was actually a pretty good engine
  8. Megaphone spec air intake = win. Your engine bay is too cluttered... - please remove coils/leads and go COP then fit redtop centre plate between covers... trollolol
  9. I've had this issue before - i cut the 4age stock one in half then used a piece of tube to fit between and welded it up. The tube I chucked in the lathe and machined the inside to the right diameter but left a step in the middle so the two original pieces push hard in to the step, then just tig welded around it. Might have some photos somewhere if you want? EDIT:
  10. Thank god you saw the light - not sure how many more snapchat photos of Brendan pulling the fingers at the MS i can take...
  11. I approve of this. I have a similar setup in mine however limited to a storm but still have used all inputs/outputs/DI's incl logging oil pressure/fuel pressure etc. Setting it up so that power will be pulled with any significant drop in either. My thinking is the Link will catch it far quicker than I could.
  12. Fingers crossed the welded tooth works - very interested as a mate of mine tried this on his 2jz but it didn't work but saying that I don't know how accurate he was
  13. Ive just increased mine to level 2. I had a slight miss/felt really soft above 6000rpm that I had trouble getting on top of and at the OS drag day I couldn't get it to rev to the limiter - seems to have solved it. With yours I'd try smoothing out that that big jump up to 4v - maybe go 0.5 > 1.0 > 1.5 then scale up from there
  14. Yep sounds like arming voltage to me - post up your table for a look?
  15. Nice result for bugger all boost! Shouldnt be too hard to get a bigger line in there?
  16. Shit if your going to Glens and can be assed then drop in on the way back - B knows where I am
  17. B was telling me about how impressive this thing is - nice work dude!
  18. My ears were bleeding on Sat due to this thing. So grand!
  19. What do these things weight? Must be lighter than my starlet - scary
  20. Stu

    link v5 wont fire

    What resistance were the larger injectors when you had them fitted? Are you running ballast resistors? If not and your large injectors are low impedance you may have done awesome things to the injector drives if you tried to run it. System voltage of 6.5v wont be helping. Whats your master fuel set to?
  21. Those new motecs are pretty cool from what I've seen of them, but second the recommendation for a link - the latest g4+ firmware is pretty trick!
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