KP_wag

Yeah, have to admit when you told me you were building this (ie 4age turbs) I bit my tongue as didn't think it was gonna work, I suppose if rock crawling or other technical stuff the slow torquey trucks would win but sure owns the mud/sand/rev it terrain

Need to find a fender deep river to wade through, should rinse off the salt. I love how in all your videos yours is often the only victorious truck on the hard bits, is that flattering editing or are you really just owning the safaris/cruisers (and rangers lols)

You mean drill out these things? Got a bit more done today. Have been looking at the driveshaft bearing hanger mounts and thinking they need some added strength. Not sure if they were just a bit misshapen outa the factory or the last engine moved them around but they were definitely a bit bent outa shape. If the latter then was gonna get a lot worse with the new engine setup, so straightened up anded some more steel. Before and after below, added a big piece of 5mm plate to the front side of the mounts which ties them together and boxes them in and also some 10mm bar either side to stop lateral movement. About 10x stronger now Id say, I dont have a hoist so this was confined upside down tig action so pretty tricky welding

Bit more progress, have built the intake pipes and mounts to get the filters where I want them. The filters replace the fog lights and sit in the front bumper so should give nice cold air, but building the brackets to get them to sit in the right place was super fiddly, hope I never prang the front end as everything is just so... Being low to the ground I also wanted to shield the filters from dust/splash back from the front wheels so I picked up a couple of $10 mini rubbish bins and cut to suit, they made nice little cowls and there are decently strong with three anchorage points to the old fog light mounts. 3" intake pipes come directly off the turbos, are mild steel so will coat with something, maybe the same coating used for the headers (Cermakrome). I plastidipped the chrome ring of these filters but forgot to do the chrome button inside, may yet do that also as wanted these to only be noticeable to the trained eye... Mounted the pipes and rolled the ute outa the shed for the first time in a year to take some glamour pics, hoping it will help with motivation (which is pretty low). See what I mean re chrome 'button'? Whaddya reckon leave as contrast or black out? This pic shows there is progress at least, can also see the new rad I bought for it. Bought the radiator based on being the right width, and relatively short as will be using a dual in single centre out intercooler so the TB pipe will need to go over the top of the radiator. Rad is supposedly for JZ converted S13s so Im hoping its gonna cool OK, either way is definitely shiny enough... EDIT > Filter pic with BJ for more Oldschool love

Depends how well press works, gonna add some steel reinforcing so can buy a jack on the bigger side (10 ton prolly), so hoping for btw 60-70% yield by weight (so >100L hopefully)...

Looks good man, rustic AF Another homebrew project in the works atm, brew buddy's missus wanted us to brew her some cider - things got outa control from there, naturally Scored some apples from block down the road, noticed a bunch of laden trees in his front paddock and cold called the dude and turns out he has no interest in them - so 200kg of free apples for me Next came processing machine, stainless innards 3/4hp insinkerator + $25 warewhare stool: And press is still a work in progress. Was tossing up a cheap bearing press but then decided to build something with more majesty for the shed - because medieval...

This thread is so great, nice to see the love of project running strong out there Surprised to see lack of piss-related craftery tho... E-kettle from the archive, 6kw element on 32A single phase supply. Runs on microcontroller and SSR: 60L of IBA

Will have to go check them out, wonder if they do wider fenders like those available in the US

Hope you took revenge on the rat. Little fawkers did the same to my steering wheel and shifter last winter. Console in yer thing less replaceable than hilux bits tho - bastids

Agree, they look choice - make em fit!

Thanks guys, decisions! Leaving as is and seeing how we go is well fucken tempting but given that everything needs to be certified, am thinking I need to get as much done for a single check as opposed to going back and paying the toll again and again. Also I need a new rear driveshaft anyway, so may as only make that once also. Re the G-series having the wrong ratios, will have plenty of gear with the TR6060 so actually thinking 3.7 or 4.1 will be about right, so should be able to find a lux axle without trouble. Again have read they start to go pop at 600hp range and this motor will be capable of a fair bit more than that turned up - so again insurance... Leaning the 8.8 way as I can get one disc to disc, LSD, the right ratio, and new leaf perches for <$800 so looking a lot cheaper than a 9" from what I've seen on trademe - unless I'm not looking in the right places? 8.8 sposd to be good for 800-1000hp too and lighter than a 9"... Truck will be road legal and be taken for the odd thrash on the weekend, so more of a fabrication project than a race car but do want to take it to the track now and then and don't want to have to be terrified about breaking it when launching. So would rather over engineer than sit at the borderline

Hey diff heads Gotta question re comparative strength for ya. With my KUN hilux projy am trying to decide on what to do re diff. I bought the truck with what was apparently an AU Falcon rear (28 spline BW78) in there. Weird huh? Apparently dude did that because 'it was easier to find a good LSD' but still leaves me scratching my head given some stuff I've read says hilux > bw78 re strength. Anyway it held up behind a 270 rwkw 350 LT1 and 4L60E Chev auto OK, but now with a major engine upgrade (TT LS and manual trans) I'm assuming the rear will go boom pretty quick... So options are: Leave BW78 where it is, and spend some money to make stronger. Have heard 31 spline axles and centre can be done (on the Aussie forums). Definitely appealing as can pretty much leave diff where it sits, meaning wheel tyre combo also unchanged. Still might go boom despite spending $ though... Find factory KUN hilux diff. Again appealing due to width and bolt in but again probably under rated for engine and manual trans. Discs would be custom (BW78 already setup with rear discs) Get 31 spline LSD 8.8 (current intention). Get sufficient strength and factory discs, width (or wheel tyre combo) will need to change though. Also need to fab new perches handbrake cable mounts etc. Thoughts? The 8.8 is potentially a blow out as starts to beg the question re 4-link etc and in order to finish this thing before 2030 am trying to reign shit in where I can

Is it a legit AE86? Might be worth more leaving it with an A motor, though my vote is 12 throttle 1GZ (or LS hehe) Truck is coming along at a snails pace, twin turbs sounds good but gotta buy two of everything which is pricey. That 2867 oughta suit the EP nicely, what a/r housing you going for?

Good shots mate, didn't know you'd added an AE to the stable. Re turbski, what chu got? Re AE, do we get to play the which motor game?

Good choice on painting the bonnet pin surrounds, more sleeper = more awesome IMO. I'm currently agonizing on whether to go pins for my thing, REALLY don't want to but seems like the only way I'm gonna be able able to run the intercooler I want dammit

Sounds like a fun adventure, and no broken bits is a win too!

A thing of beauty, love yer work. Must be so stoked to get this over the line - awesome job

This is so great, you are living my dream project. Look forward to hearing max revs sound clips

What flavour donky donk? You're in it for real now, looking forward to seeing the progress...

Read your thread end to end and got many smiles from it. Also nicely reinforces my allegiance to jap cars...

As is the way progress slower than hoped on this money pit, so many damn projects jumping the queue but still inching forward... Built the driveshaft hoops, very happy with the fit and much nicer to look at than the previous hoop setup. Even If I wanted to be lazy and reuse the previous setup, it was not (re)certifiable given that it was made of 45x5mm steel (minimum spec 50x5mm). Pic of the old setup for your viewing pleasure - some proud metal work right there. Also got the last of the crossmembers modified/built. This one ties the frame rails together just behind the engine, but new giganto gearbox would hit even with it tucked up tight in the tunnel. In this case I cut some 20mm plate to same footprint of the member, tacked it to the bottom and then cut out the centre of the original box section. Came out good with no loss of ground clearance, 12mm plate probably wouldve sufficed but scored the material off a mate and whats a bit more weight in 2 ton brick anyway. And finally tidied up manifolds and got them coated. Hopefully keeps the temps down as the primaries are pretty long so a lot of steel to heat things up. Next on the list is new diff...

My guess is once it's got the cert on it, WOF guy will not be that interested (my WOF guy at least).

Great, will look to go that way then I think, a boost referenced valve that is as loud (flowey) as legally poss when open, and quiet as possible when closed

Thanks for that. So my reading of that is that you can have a switched 'bimodal' exhaust as long as it is not manually actuated and as long as it doesn't exceed the max decibel limits under either mode?

I'm interested in this - suspect I'm the old man you speak of... Keen to have unrowdy whisper quiet sleeper spec for tootling into work carpark and have free-er flow when on the gas for my conversion (was thinking boost referenced). Re OK if OEM, I assume the OEM bit is the chassis/body versus engine? I believe some HSVs had vacuum actuated exhaust valves and donor motor is LS so?... Recipient is Hilux so nothing fancy there exhaust-wise