Lump

Hi guys, I'm in the middle of an engine swap and I'm just working out how to get the speedo to work. I'd really like to keep the original mechical speedo as it matches the dash - other instruments etc, unfortunately the donor transmission (jaguar XJ40) doesn't have a mechanical speedo drive or an electrical one (the electrical sensor was on the rear of the diff on the donor car) I figured I'd use one of these to run the mechanical speedo http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm But I'll need to add an electronic speedo impulse sensor to the gearbox/driveshaft or wheel. Can anyone recommend where to order one for a good price.

Yup I used this to do the Jag seats and it worked really well. The trick is to remove as much of the old dye colouring as possible before starting to re-dye. (This is also a good time to feed the leather as the old dye, dirt etc can stop the hide feed from penetrating) Also thin the dye down and do multiple coats as thick coats are more likely to leave brush marks, scratch or stick to each other when the seats are reassembled. I'd try to spray the dye if you've got the equipment as it will give you a great finish in a short time. If you do get it order it straight from the states as the local suppliers mark up is horrendous edit: I used kit number 3 http://leatherique.org/detail.aspx?ID=32 and only seemed to use about 1/3 of the dye for 2 front seats and the rear set - but I used all of everything else. I did mine 2 years ago and its holding up well except for the drivers seat bottom but the leather there was past it (rock hard and wouldn't respond to conditioning)and should have been replaced anyhow.

Is it possible to buy adaptors to join two different diameters of flexible fuel hose together. I need to join my fuel tank outlets (3/8 inch hose) to a changeover valve from a later XJ (1/2 in hose). Is there a 3/8 barb to 1/2 barb adaptor available and if so where would I find one?

Can anyone recommend a shop that can make me up a new set of folded metal engine mounts. I have a set off the parts car where my new engine is coming from but its got frontal damage and the mounts have been bent out of shape - theres enough left to make a new pattern from. I've got to do this engine swap faster than I had planned as my transmission shat itself today without warning, and I'd like to get mobile again soon

Can you hold it in reverse - my old Triumph used to drop out of reverse under load and make a big bang followed by a whirring noise - it turned out the g box mount was so rooted and the g box would move enough that the gear stick would hit the transmission tunnel and be thrown out of gear. Could be worth checking

I get the Jag done at Beatson's on Colombo St (the right side of Bealey Ave), you could try them

There no valve adjustment on the engine, and I haven't seen any metallic particles in the exhaust. I guess I'll check the intake system for leaks and have a look at the egr system (I'm assuming it has one as it pretty modern) Cheers for the help so far, I'll let you know how I get on

Its a petrol engine, it was being used up until we did the work on it. Some coolant and oil may have ended up in the exhaust but its been used for a week or so - so I guess it should have cleaned out since

I just helped a mate replace the valve stem seals and cam belt on his car (Holden Barina Van - early 2000's 1600 SOHC). It seemed to work fine at first but it has started blowing brow smoke when revved (it had previously blown white smoke on start up). It doesn't idle high or hesitate or anything else - just brown smoke. Is this likely related to the valve stem seals, the camshaft timing, or is it overfueling for some reason?

Any automotive leather conditioner or hide food should soften the leather, try to avoid anything with silicon or waxes in it as they stop the leather from breathing and make future conditioning difficult. I use leatherique (you need to order this from the US but its really good if a little expensive) my leather felt like cardboard before I used this but now its nice and soft. If the conditioner works properly the leather should plump up a bit and the hairline cracks should become less prominent. You can fill these in but you need to use filler pastes which would be difficult on perforated vinyl and you'd also need to re-dye the seats to blend it in. I redyed my car seats but they were 40 years old and a bit past it, it was a big job though. Don't use saddle soap on car leather its not the same as saddles bridles etc. Neems oil is an excellent leather conditioner however it tends to rot the stitching so I'd avoid it too. If you are in Christchurch I can give you some autoglym leather cleaner and conditioner that I don't use anymore, or you can try the leatherique stuff out to see if you want to get some.

I think it was 79 that rear belts were first required - my Avenger was a 78 and it didn't have them

Its leaking from under the adjustable tap, I have pulled it apart before and it doesn't use an o ring in that part - the seal is like a flat discus and I don't think it could be replaced.

The water fuel separator bowl started leaking around the adjustable tap earlier this year and I removed it and replaced it with an inline filter. I'd like to replace it as I occasionally have problems with water in the fuel and the bowl gave a quick visual check. I have seen these in other cars such as escorts etc. Here's one that looks similar http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProd ... exID=56348 I've had a look on trade me but I can only find marine style products is there anywhere in NZ where I can get one?

The small pill bottles you get from the pharmacy are good

My cars been re-registered (maybe re-vinned too I'll need to check) and I still get the cheap rego

Alfa Romeo Estate got passed in at about $1700 Don't recall what the subaru went for though sorry

I've tested the voltage drop and it doesn"t get higher than 0.03 volts under load so I guess its pretty good. I couldn't find any voltage drop when the starter activated although reading the voltage at the battery it was at 10.8V at its lowest reading when the starter was on - again not bad. In conclusion it would seem that there's nothing really wrong with my charging system and I've been a dumb/fussy cunt thinking more volts are best. Thanks for your help guys PS I've had the jag for a few years so its not the one from Wainui

I'm away for a few days a the moment so I'll do the tests you suggest when I get back and post the results here. The alternator wiring is part Jag part custom, the main power feed from the alternator has been extended for the conversion (joints appear well done) the wires core is 4mm at the narrowest points. I've added a voltage sense wire for the GM alt and I'm using the idiot light wiring fitted from the factory. I have smaller than usual starter motor (branded Bosche - this was fitted to the car when I brought it and yes it is a tight fit in this area)I've had problems with a sluggish starter in the past but it is fine now that the timing has been set correctly. My car was converted when I brought it but to get the correct height at the front of the car I'm told you need to remove some of the spring spacers (there are 6 fitted each side - 3 top -3 bottom) leaving one spring spacer on the top and bottom of each spring will give you the correct ride height with the lighter chev engine.

I recently exchanged the lucas alt on my chev v8 enginge with a GM alternator(this was supposed to be 80 amps but apparently it is only 65 amps) I was hoping to improve charging at idle as with the lucas alt it would drop down to about 12volts at idles and below that if the lights or electric fan came on. The GM alternator behaved identically at first, however I replaced the battery which was nearing the end of its life at the situation improved a little. Basically i get good voltage readings over about 1000 rpm (14v sort of territory) however when the car is at idle in gear (600 rpm) I get about 12.4 volts but with electrical load (i.e. headlights and twin radiator fans on it drops down to 11.9volts) - with the car not running and the same electrical load I still get 11.9v. I know these readings are probably fine but I'd be happier if the voltage at idle and under load was at least 12.4 volts could this be improved by fitting a larger alternator say 105 amps or would I still have the same charging problems at idle?

I got a letter yesterday apparently the Tool Shed on Montreal St. is having a closing down sale up to 70% off, it ends tomorrow. I haven't checked it out yet, but thought some people might be interested.

I was told not to use a gear oil with a rating higher than GL4 the higher ratings have additives that can affect the soft metal parts of an older gearbox (brass syncros etc.). Not sure how important this is but the oil is cheaper so win/win

The lights and fans will still work at idle but the voltage reading at the battery drops to about 11 V, the engine's running doesn't seem to be effected, I guess i'd just prefer to not have any draw on the battery after starting. I get plenty of volts when driving the car normally. the cars running a lucas alternator from a later model jag - (the original alternator was externally regulated) and it seems to have a larger than normal pulley attached - also painted chev orange. I figure I'll try and get a normal sized pulley for the lucas alternator, or try and replace the whole lot with a GM/Holden alternator which should bolt up better than the current lucas setup

If you can get into the resistance coil itself you should be able to see whats wrong. On my sender units there was a steel box where the resistance coil was located at the pivot point of the float arm. I had to prise up 3 steel tabs to get into this. Mine had problems with rust and old fuel varnish covering the resistance coil inside; I used rust killer and old petrol to remove this. next check the sweeper arm (this should move with the float arm) is making contact with the resistance coil. (also check that with the full movement of the float arm that the sweeper arm won't foul the cover - which can bend the sweeper arm leading to no readings.) If the resistance coil itself is broken you can get them re-wound at an instrument specialist - they'll know what resistance is needed etc. (Sounds like you need this fixed in a hurry so this probably won't be an option) Let us know how you get on

Just changed em can you see them now?

Fans installed Ignition source taken from the coil..... not sure if this is ok or not - it does only activate the relays so I think it'll be ok They work really well, the power draw from the fans with the car at idle is ok - it gets a bit much when the lights are on, I'm going to try a smaller pulley on the alternator. Thanks for all your help getting this set up