sr1600

Always gets me as well So total overall width to work out the offset Inside lip measurement is the wheel width meaning the width of the lip has no relation #otherthanspitroast Ami Correct?

Its about as close as your gonna get out of a can , but agree that stuff is beyond terrible for marks Got some gold stuff the same looks primo sprayed but marks real easy, sprayed some cheap spray can clear over it and its alot better for marks. two $6 cans of paint aint an expensive paint job hahaa drop them down the chromers

Awesome result dude You would think thats 5200rpm is quite late when you see it on paper but idle is a 1800rpm, Considering you should be able spin it quite happily through to 9000rpm. Its quite a wide powerband really (taking a sr20 from about 3.2k through to 7k is the same size) if the Hairdryer can keep up they just get better and better the more revs you feed them. Good luck

Concrete is cheap go nice and thick, go about 300mm thick under the bolts ( 2m x 2m x 200mm thick less than a cube extra ) and dont want them going rusty from being in the dirt under you slab. You only have to look at the minimum thickness for something like c6 to see how much you need when setting the bolts c6 says 90mm minimum for an m10 stud set and I guarantee your 2 post hoist isnt held down with 12 of them. c6 epcon m10 = 90mm m12 = 110mm m16 = 125mm m20 = 170mm m24 = 210mm Otherwise you wont want to be anywhere near it for half an earthquake and we have had one lately. Hate to be a dead dude for the sake of 250 bucks worth of concrete

I have pair of these sebrings in 16x7 5x114 , Cool two piece wheels Never seen an assembly like em as the centers dont fit out of the barrels so are shaved on two sides to fit and then these funny spacer/washer type things about 120mm long bolt behind that section.

Yeah pretty sure they must be straight , same as the connections on the oil cooler from memory but they are standard size Searched a few bit but never seen any pictures of oil gallery mods , so is awesome to see some in the flesh. , Assume removing the ball and springs in the eshaft improves the flow however up into the rotors however what size restriction did you use instead? I always thought there was something far more sinister going on here but i would appear similar to the way your going but with an external reg and still using the dowls to transfer oil back to the front stat gear

Bargin I have seen it too (ausrotary think it was a grey or dark green rx4) Wasnt prepared to pay that much for another set so ended up bring a set in from aussie off a 240z about a month ago, they are 16x7 +5 offset fr's all round all for under 1k nz , so they are out there but you have to jump on them pretty quick when you see them.

Good shit dude never seen any indepth oil gallery mods before, always wondered what what else is done apart from windowing the bearings , e-shaft mods. Have the an fittings in my block however they are sealed with copper washers under the fittings,screwed up tight. Are you planning on triming the fittings? Keep up the good work interested to see the oil mods completed, are you planning on running adjustable oil pressure reg?

Nice we hatch dude , looks good on the lensos i reckon albiet new school. Studing the hubs can be a pain well worth the effort as 30years hasnt done the threads any favours Keep us updated with your progress PS; Good luck on the simmons front last 4x110 set I sold, got damn near 4k for them.

195 45 15 and 185 55 15 would be the same sidewall size wouldn't they? Wheels are awesome !!

Couldnt take mine back ether they were the plug but not the right part number. Shame about the 10a but bits are hard to find now let alone new ones, shall go well with a 12app , nice green brothers one for sale at the moment.

I just hope you didnt drag that "Ol Muesem piece" all the way home for it not to work.............

Orion silver gets my vote , love that colour Just hard to make a car stand out in silver but they always look so classy Don't see a stray fridge in there pal, hope it survived for ya

My back seat in the rx is done in the vht shit , it's good stuff. You won't notice it on normal clothes as most are flat on the back and is fuckin awesome for paint. However when you do those weddings I recommend something in between the zip/lace up piece on the back of the dress. Maybe it's just the bouncing around in the rx but the high pressure areas like that you will see it , anyone else wouldn't notice and is just the high spots in the zip or lace up eyes on the corset that rub on the seat and get the paint tinge on them . She never noticed till the next day anyway. Highly recommended is good shit and smells awesome being sprayed

Sound like a real rotary owner their dude Correct good for fuck all to mike now i can read it but indicates a trend against port timing for us dinosaur folk

Cant go wrong with GBR , Is there still a 3 month waiting list for there workshop? They will recommend Dynopower , id ask brent to do if they do (he tends to push it abit harder) EDIT: Also if i could get it to open there is a good write up on the Racing Beat website on Rotaries and Timing, includes timing for different ports.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye_penetrant_inspection

That's the weird thing about it, the other one is listed as a 929 coupe yours is registered as a Cosmo. Wonder if someone converted it to piston back in the day and records are updated to show that. I always thought only rotary ones were registered as Cosmo as well.

Posted in Jan 2011 about the conversion. http://www.rotahavik.co.nz/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=28734 Heres my Series 1 HB Cosmo,was a piston 2.0 MA but now converted to 12a turbo ,using all factory hb Rotary parts (12at ,LSD, engine subframe,gearbox x member,radiator) running a microtech and s4 rx7 coils, electric fans. Running factoy boost but go hard! just need cert now! heres some pics! REMEMBER KIDS - EVERYTHING you put on the interweb is recorded by john key..................................for later Find it a bit weird being a coupe though, didnt think there was a piston coupe? Sweet ride none the less triangle brap

Looks almost like you have 280zx hubs there , same setup as i have done (280zx hub , rx7 calipers and disc) What are the brackets like? Flat between the calipers with about 10mm spacers on on the strut bolts. I found a 15x8 Zero offset wheel is pretty much hard up against the strut (R31 strut) 280zx strut might have a different angle slightly in the stub axle to allow more clearance.

280zx on the left versus common z31, can see larger centerbore due to the mounting face offset

Have some r31 front hubs and brakes & could the mazda could use a brake upgrade. In all seriousness 280zx hubs are the ones to get as they allow for mega offset compared to the similar nissan struts r31 , 910 etc Only down side is the large centrebore on them.

Dont work so well with standard struts as the springs are normally large, therefore small range of movement

do you get much distorsion from the tig? any tips?