Bling

Chamberlains in town (CHC). Pop in and show them what you want to achieve. None of the methods you suggest, reset / cut are good ones. You can make custom springs, I forget the info you need to provide them, but it's a couple of details, then they design a spring to suit. They can likely source replacement shock inserts to match. By match I mean people tend to put whatever fits in and hope for the best spring / shock being matched well. You can often get lowering springs made up to give a 25mm drop (big generalisation) that will work with stock shock length inserts and be captive. So put the new springs in and job done, after alignment etc. Have done that on a couple of cars, pretty easy. Cert wise, i'm going to leave that bit. You can check the VIRM and LVVTA online PDF's to see what does and doesn't trigger a cert being needed.

They don't seem like suitable tyres for a 15x8" rim.

Just get wheels that fit with the car without needing to mess with the alignment? 15x8 down to 13" mags is one extreme to the other, i'm sure you can find middle ground. If it's stock otherwise then 13's probably look good on it.

Handy to have a tube of that in the toolbox for sure. Even more handy if you have to pull the bits off later as you forgot a part...

My guess was they just didn't bother cleaning out the original oil when swapping shocks. I never knew about adding fluid in there for cooling though! Learn something every day. I'm sure it will handle a lot nicer when new shocks go in either way.

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-DFR7-Super-Range-Detection/dp/B01C0B0RWC Would need to do homework to check frequencies are the same, could possibly be different. I haven't checked warranty details.

How old is it? I have one in my garage that is super old and only has 2 cores, even loading youtube up gives it a heart attack. As Goat says, SSD can make a big difference, even if the rest is old as fuck, it makes things a lot quicker in general. Can only flog a horse so much though. Grabbing an ex lease laptops are pretty cheap and if your laptop is 4-5 years old, it's what i'd do. Every few years the mrs complains her laptop is slow, so I buy her another ex lease one, rinse and repeat. Usually costs ~$300 to replace.

Buy a spare hatch or buy bulk stickers to reapply when pulled up.

Is that question linked to your previous post? Lack of gas? Can't comment on AKL, but in CHCH I found test was as easy as getting a refill.

Something along the lines of this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/listing/3938823388?gclid=CjwKCAiA8OmdBhAgEiwAShr404poXUojJ0bFO-4SOBcAvDdQX2Y4wLddQWoC8ZZxzi7NSdnqjUdC9xoCyFsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You have to admit it's a money grab though. One that they can do because if you don't pay it, your cars dead. You just have to hope if you lose yours, it's one that the locksmiths can sell and program for MUCH less. People shouldn't be held to ransom because of what they drive. That's my view anyway. It's not a problem for people with money. But plenty would be parking it up and taking the bus for the cost to replace a cheap remote for $$$. I don't know which brands / models locksmiths cover, but it's sure a mix of euro and not.

I would love to, but things are rather hectic at the moment. Just remembered I was supposed to send you photos... yeah that hectic! I'll do so one day I swear.

The pros must be on holiday enjoying themselves... so i'll chime in and say it may depend on the epoxy we are talking about. They should have info for top coating and the likes in the spec sheets. Usually give you windows to complete each step sort of thing. Whenever i've used it, it's been kept inside so I can't personally comment. It tends to be a pretty tough finish though.

Yeah me too haha. Will add some progress pics as I play around with it. The passenger side panel is going to be more challenging due to shape. So best I get some speakers so I have the right size to work to.

Not a bad idea on the TS-X boxes... Cheers on the scan stuff, something i'm super into getting better at, just lack the time. Would be a good side hustle if there was a market.

Take a punt as you say, some won't care, some might. You haven't modified it at this point so I don't see any harm in going for WOF. Just blame previous owner if it's picked up. May well be a non issue. A quick drive past VTNZ to get their view won't harm either though.

Sweet sounds good thanks. I do have 6x9 speakers somewhere that I could box, but I feel like they'd look out of place / era. If I installed rear speakers it would only be for a bit of fill really. 6x9 are great to just smash some sound in your ear holes, but hoping to go for a bit more quality over quantity this time around. Not in a big hurry so all good things to consider though. @Sambo Thanks, I'll try that key trick and see what I can hear. Hopefully not ECU based as the only one in the car is installed above the glovebox which requires most of dash out. Will track down what I'm looking for (the solenoid) and go from there I guess. The ECU is for emissions so I'm thinking it won't be linked to that. Will check the wiring diagrams.

Did not see that coming haha, looks great! You may have mentioned it in the build, I just read the pictures.

Quick update while there is some peace and quiet around here. Went for cert recheck and got the big tick / cert donut. May have already covered it, but spent a bit of time sorting the suspension travel to get it to comply. Just one of the joys of a light chassis, where half the weight in the rear is unsprung. Lots of maths and a bit of trimming here and there and I got it bang on. Pretty sure I could pull the rear suspension out with my eyes closed now. So yeah, cert man said I did a good job and I was on my way. Christmas period means it won't be in the system till next year, hopefully no hiccups in that regard. So i'll hopefully have it WOF'd by end of January. Carb still needs a bit of work, there is a local guy that rebuilds them, but i'm not sure he will be interested in determining what the actual problem is. So I may have to try sort that myself. Just likes to either run on, or stall at lights. So I currently have it fiddled to run a higher idle so that it doesn't stall, the less embarrassing option. So time allowing i'll potentially swap bits between the cars and see if I can isolate the problem, be it the dieseling solenoid or whatever other voodoo controls such things. Have been using my aliexpress claybar on the windows to remove all of the garbage left on them during the build, coming up nice. Have also been looking into sound options as that will make things a bit more pleasant in the cabin. Pretty raw, even with carpet, so looking to get a big ol' roll of deadening and laying that in places to quieten that up a bit. Sound wise, looking to put some components up front and amp them when money allows. I have a sub and amp from many years ago, but really don't know if I can be bothered installing that. So will see how the front speakers go and work from there. As part of cert I had to weld up the rear speaker holes in the parcel shelf. Didn't have to, but to keep the seatbelt anchorages in the rear shelf, they had to be filled, so that was my preferred option. I don't want to cut the rear panels to fit speakers. Box speakers to bolt on the shelf are silly money these days, so for now I have no interest in rear speakers. So yeah, front speakers are around the 4" mark from the factory, which isn't going to work. So I scanned my kick panels the other day and printed up some practice speaker rings. The idea being that i'll cut up a spare pair of panels and mount the printed parts (that won't be orange) to the kick panels and cut out in the inside. Currently has nice black panels installed, so they will be removed and put away for safe keeping. I'll then paint the spares, one of which is half brown half black, to be black. Will have a play with changing the angle of the speakers too, this first run was just to see if my theory was right. I was pretty sure while it was printing, that I had fucked something up as the profile of the ring did NOT look anything like the panel. It was though. So here are some pics, will update when road legal all going to plan. Panel to be scanned: Scan result, which I wasn't worried about accuracy so didn't bother scanning with my more accurate scanner, rough and ready will do the trick. Speaker ring, rough print as it's a concept print, not a final print to be used. Couple of photos of it on the panel, has the potential to make the install pretty neat and should look relatively factory IMO. /spent /fred for abuse advice:

The VIN being painted is probably least of the worries (come WOF time) on that vehicle if masking it was too much work.

I'm going to say if you DIY'd that, you'd be out of luck, doesn't look to be past the rear opening of the door. Maybe it works as it's pointed away from the opening. Full marks for the straight parking though. It's illegal to take photos with an iPad with your dog hanging out the window too.

Just watched this, half as a refresh half because I do enjoy a bit of Edd China. You may find some good tips in here. He includes a demo of using 0.8mm wire with thin sheet (among other scenerios) Worth a look. He was welding patches into a chassis in another video and showed how to cut and fit, then weld the patch panel in, also worth a look.

That's where the thin rope works well, feed it into the gap and it can't close up. Once you've gone right around, pop it out and cup of tea time.

Yeah totally depends on the car / method it's installed with. If glued, a box cutter will do it, rubber seal is a length of thin rope / fat string. Have done both with no friends, with success. Rubber seal is piece of piss, cutting the urethane just takes time.

Will depend on budget too, the big units are big money. I would suggest Marquip 16, new or second hand, but new they go for silly money. So it makes it harder to recommend. Have seen them pop up for pretty reasonable prices second hand though, so if not in a hurry, that would be worth watching for. Before I got mine, I was looking at other options such as running two smaller units in tandem with a storage tank they both filled to. Also depends what you have now and how much more air you think you could get away with. That unit you linked might give you twice the air and manage to keep your usage happy. It is the sort of tool you hang on to long term, so if spending a bit more saves you paying someone to paint your ride, a spendy unit can still be a good investment. Bigger is better, but you may well be able to manage your usage with that unit you linked. It will likely smash the direct drive you already have. At that price... you could almost grab another if you find it lacking down the road, which so long as you have the power to run them, for $1200 I can't see anything else offering up 17CFM of FAD for even double that price. Or just grab one and ignore my ramblings.