Bling

Must be doing it wrong to damage the ball joint as you shouldn't touch it. Sledge hammer on one side of arm next to ball joint, smack other side of arm HARD and they pop out. The ones i've done have come out mint with no damage at all. The shock / impact just pops them out. Of course there is a correct tool, but I wouldn't touch anything with one of those forks unless you have a new ball joint going in.

Tried a bigger hammer? Actually a serious question. Whenever i've had issues even after soaking in CRC I just resorted to a bigger hammer. Never smack the ball joint itself.

I think any old spray cans will suit your purpose. Just carry a spare can of the cheap matt black with you for touch ups. Gangsta as.

I had to laugh when mrs failed for spare not secure. I took it back with no spare and when they checked it was secure I 'd. Pass.

Why last resort, that's ingenious!

What's involved / what are these shims?

So many sweet bikes there aye.... shame I know nothing about them as it would have been the perfect time to grab something sweet. Quite liked that brown crown with the whitewalls Glad I took they day off work yesterday for the meet..... today is a bit wet!

Yeah was a bit of crap, however, I didn't bring anything home that didn't have rust on it. Excluding hot chips / donuts. I prefer if there is a bit of rubbish there though as you can always find something useful in amongst it See the tarp covered in probably 3m2 of tools for $1 each? Bargains galore! Found it a good mix of people selling items at bargain prices, fair prices, and more than new prices..... wtf

Today / Tomorrow, incase anyone didn't know / forgot. Heaps of the usual stuff there, including oodles of motorbikes / parts

As far as dodgy solutions go, I'd certainly say bog will be safer than grinding!! Still in date is it? I got a cylinder off Galpro Stylex (i'm guessing that's who you mean?) Was like $330 delivered to chch from aucks. Mind you that was CO2 so I guess argon may cost more for the cylinder/ dunno. Legit is also another good option which is less hassle.

haha fuck they masnt have liked you How much did you pay? Was for work and no complaints from the customer, so would trade again. Don't recall exact pricing.

Something like 40 for first can and 25 after that. Been a while though.

Pretty sure they have to disengage like they do normally, so a switch wouldn't work. If in doubt, read the VIRM on www.nzta.govt.nz. Also take onboard what 4AG_Addict, fix it properly and you'll not regret it.

Going by the photos although that 'arm' might be damaged, pretty sure its only to limit the door from opening too far. Compare hinges / area they bolt to, to the other side and go from there. Just taking a guess, photos don't show hinges. So that's where i'd start. I don't recall if the hinges are the same left to right or not. If they are, swap the passenger side hinges over and see if that fixes it. If it does... then you know what to replace.

Shit they laid the marketing on thick on that amp!

Narva light bulb models: eg http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/h4 All the same watts I think, just better light from same power. Other pages have the specs of the bulbs.

Sugar / sand mixed into the fuel/oil of the other cars and you'll have a good chance No.1 for me would be stickiest tyres up front on the lightest wheels possible. Then just launch like fuck off the line and hope you get one run before you break something

Just got a couple of sets of Narva +100s, beat the pants of what I previously had in there.

I'd get about that mileage with the stock 2.4L petrol motor in a loaded up hiace, so that can't be too bad.

These guys took mine: http://www.metalcorp.co.nz/welcome.html they are local to me, so not sure if that made a difference. Next one i'm going to chop up and take on a trailer so I get some $$.

I know bugger all about nissans, but pretty sure turb = 5 stud, na = 4 stud

Didn't see this thread right at the top? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1167

You could flick bubblegoose a PM, he seems on to it with painting.

1) tank size is only one part of the equation, how much air the compressor can deliver to the gun is what matters. Just my2c, but find someone local willing to do a cashie. Nothing against DIY, but if you have to ask those questions then it might be a stretch to pull off a good job.

That it does, might need to sack the front out to match the rear though Richie