Bling

Could be worth checking out the indicator stalk condition too, assuming headlights on the same stalk as indicators. Only place I can think of that indicators and headlights come remotely close wiring wise. Could be well off though, I can't suss my own electrical issues

Goes hard for what it is, will ring true. I miss my blacktop and that was in a heavier FWD platform. Stock power will put a smile on your dial easily.

Same again next month?

Was planning on going, but it clashes with Chopper Next time, was keen on some greasy food and sharnsTBH.

Air gap provides the "insulation" I think, I wouldn't bother with it TBH. Polystyrene could be worth a look, but I probably still wouldn't bother for a playhouse.

Good plan.

Built to last! Dressed timber looks so much nicer than RS, which is what I tend to end up with due to budget.

Seems like a list of maintenance issues rather than things related to the modifications? Any comments in regards to the mods or did that all go through no probs? 300 horse seems damn good for that motor!!

Hi Pete, Long time! Hectic week this week, but i'll get in touch next week and pick your brains / show you what I have. Cheers!

Nah not that one, but looks pretty similar. Was using this till it got sold, big unit, but spent half my time making adjustments to try and get square cuts.

Auction finished already haha. Will edit a link here when not on phone.

I only plan to use thin stock but it looks about 150mm, even 100mm should do. I'm just wanting to get a few projects finished off. So needed a table saw too. Looks pretty junk, but its old, so it can't be worse than China specials. Time will tell I guess. I know what you're saying though. I just don't want to fork out big money on something I'll likely be flicking off later.

A heavy duty Tanner planer / table saw machine popped up on the tard, so I'm grabbing that and will follow the advice in that thread. Will report back the results in a few weeks hopefully.

2.2m, and the part lengths vary from probably 0.6m to 1.4m. Ah so just looking at the grain of the rings? Alternate them? /such a noob. Had use of a table saw until I got told it was being taken away today, so had to rush through all of the timber before it left.

How does one work out the grain? Thanks for the offer Joe, but keen to do it locally as time constraints mean if I don't finish it soonish it will sit... Got my eye on a buzzer, so could put a few together and buzz them as suggested.

You did what now?

Currently making a dining table top out of ~ 20 lengths of roughly 45x45 (very roughly) timber. Some of the lengths are cut in two to reduce bowing (30 lengths total approx. Wanting to get the bow taken out of the timber and happy for the lengths to end up 40mm or so if needed. Does anyone know of a GC with a thicknesser that would run my timber through for not much coin? Low budget project, DIY spec etc. So just thought i'd ask. Everywhere i've asked hasn't been interested. Not sure what the wood is, but might be oak or something similar. Have already cut the stock down from bowed 100x50mm 2m lengths and looking to get it as square as I can before I start putting it all together. Will running it through a thicknesser even fix the bowing? Last resort is spending a day with the planer. Any help appreciated. "Pic for attention"

Myth would have been started by someone selling one. "Rear as fook, can't even cert these anymore, get in QUICK!1one!!!"

Fast and furious showed otherwise.

Forgot to mention, AC wasn't on. It tows fine, i'm just wanting to keep things ticking along nicely. I don't tow in top gear and don't thrash it while towing, so it should manage fine. I could go buy something that is better suited, but then I can't afford gib and bricks. It's towed everything i've asked so far, so I don't plan on selling it to be honest. That's all I wanted to know really, will it improve the cooling in my situation. In the meantime I have considered running a temperature gauge and just monitoring that. It might not even get THAT hot, idiot gauges don't really give much detail. Cheers for the help chaps.

I understand the why the fan is turning on and off completely. But I know the engine was getting hotter than usual, to be expected with towing. I noticed that it was staying on a longer than usual. So I just thought I might be able to aid the cooling by taking the cooling of the trans off of the radiator. Google a 1997 rav 4 engine bay if you're not sure how tight everything is packed. Engine has been rebuilt in the last few years, so i'd like to keep it happy. I just figured if the radiator was taking load from the trans, it would add heat to the coolant via the radiator. But it's not going to add much heat i'm assuming from what you've said? Coolant should be fine, replaced a couple years ago, not sure on radiator condition. Wasn't sure how much heat the trans would be adding to be honest. And often see people talking about adding trans coolers to keep things in check. Could be a good idea just for health of trans then.

If I want to cool down an auto 4wd (3SGE Rav4) when towing, will just mounting a small trans cooler be a good idea? It never went above half way on the temp gauge, but at idle the fan would switch on and off, so it must be getting warm. Plan to tow a bit in the next 6 months, but if i'm wasting my time in this situation with a cooler, I won't bother. Factory it just runs into the engine rad. Any other suggestions on easy ways to keep things cooler?

Beaut.

Ah my bad! The link above should help in any case.

Read this, it should answer your question. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51700-my-re-registering-a-vehicle-experience/ The AE92 doesn't sound like a car i'd bother putting back on the road, but only you can make that call. Especially if you plan to put a silvertop engine in (other thread?) as it will require a cert on top of all the costs mentioned in the above thread.