flyingbrick

Silly q but why would any fuel go through the pumps bypass? There's zero pressure in the surge tank so the pump should just hum along with bugger all load anyway?

My concern with the EFI pump having its own return is that it may drain the surge tank faster than the lift pump can fill it.. that would be bad if the lift filter blocks up again or if the lift pump just can't keep up

This sounds far better than it should too.

That oven is coooool! Never seen anything like it!

Good outcome!

Bentley uses the A/C system on some of its cars to somehow cool the fuel Could it be that the pumps are heating the fuel? Maybe do a test with the lift pump running for 30 min by itself and then with the EFI pump running by itself and see if either one of those is responsible somehow? Just seems odd to me that the lift pump itself can't supply enough cool fuel.

What about a larger return from surge to main tank? It might let the lift pump.flow more cool fuel to the surge tank by letting more warm fuel back out Edit. Also what about a speed controller for the high pressure pump No idea on current needed but jaycar has good PWM speed controllers..You could set it to half speed and use an output from the MS to flick a relay and supply full pump power when throttle or rpm or something dictates

Extremely awesome! Blows my mind that something like the Arduino is so clean it can be used as a simple solution <3

@chris r wants some

Perfect... Fit taller profile rear tires it will look faster too

Is it reading too fast or too slow?

There's lots of people on the internets with jaycar speedo corrector issues. Looks like they all just pieces of shit.

Hi rookie. What is a pin guide endmill? Do you use it in a hand held drill or drillpress?

It's the 3.0 v6 (3vzfe) isn't it? They are nearly as bad as the 7m at blowing head gaskets. Keep an eye on its water use.

Wire wheeled out some dirt and rusty, ground off the spot weld bumps and the rusty remains of the old skin and then hammered everything straight again. Now the passenger side needs the same.

As per FB, I didn't get pins, I will turn some m10 bolts down to 11/32nd then blacken them and retain with a c clip. I just can't handle $32 for 4 pins! I know why this cost this much and I'm fine with that but just not when I'm paying. The part number I ordered is Product Code: JAOD14551

Ordered the correct door hinge bushes from Jonseys garage in Hamilton after measuring my hinges and finding imperial equivalent. They have an excellent website and they sell a range of hinge bushes for less than HALF the cost of buying an actual HQ/WB specific set (just $3 a bush) They were the ONLY source I could find in NZ so I'm very impressed...It's surprisingly hard to find small bronze tophat bushes! http://www.jonesys.co.nz/clips-fastners/pins During lunch I tig welded the bottom of the handle and after a bunch of measuring milled in these finger dimples- work days go faster if ya skip smoko and focus on little projects like this. Had a very stressful Thursday morning and was too worked up to go back to actual work so did the driver's side floor piece. Shaped the opposite side of my MDF former, pinned my steel down with a pair of nails and tapped it round while watching TV. My pleats are getting much nicer now. Fewer pleats and larger seems much tidier than lots of little ones. And then I had a pair! Still lots to go :'-( Having a decent hammer and tools makes this a whole lot faster and easier. It's amazing how much you can push mild steel around to adjust the position of folds and joins....A very fun learning experience.

Very nice! I bet it's a hoot to drive!

I have moved on.. now using vinegar and find it far more effective as it's obviously not line of sight.....And it gets DEEP into the pits and rusty holes.

Put your dial indicator on the center spiggot to see if the axle end is also bent in the other direction and is moving the wheel upward and downward as it rotates.

I have used SketchUp with good success. Only pain was that it didn't output a useful file so I used an online converter to convert things I used draftsight to make the plan view 2d file first as that's what I know how to use

Thanks guys!, Haha Gold zinc passivation (it's electroplating) is pretty cheap. I couldn't comment on actual price per KG (it's sent off by someone else for me) but I get everything done at Terei Brothers in West Auckland. They are bloody approachable so give them a call and ask any questions directly Also, be cautious as to what you get done- nothing high tensile or spring related (I'm not even too sure about things like seat rails or this handbrake lever.. I generally assume that if it's available electroplated via aftermarket sources eg my rear caliper handbrake brackets then I don't mind doing it myself ) Any input @cletus about electroplating custom made seat rails etc?

More stuff back from the platers, hinges, axle spacer things and a few brackets. Drilled lots of holes everywhere. The handbrake took a bit of planning (used CAD) There is 10mm between each hole and the sides of all the holes (except for the last big one) are all in a straight line Holes cut with a combination of rotabroach tooling and normal drillbits in a mill for no other reason than because I can. Oh and used big blocks of steel, a press and a hammer to fold over the curved bottom lip on those chassis bits. And yucky. This is why the old ones had to come.off

Also, it doesn't necessarily have to be ground- a skim in a lathe with good tooling will also suffice (have done a few at work) You'd be amazed how warped and worn the surface can become even on an old ladies daily.

Just buy 5 off Ali Express (for the price of one here) and choose the best