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flyingbrick

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Everything posted by flyingbrick

  1. Just pop down to the closest machine shop and ask for a price. You might be surprised by how cheap it is.
  2. lol, as soon as i saw that my mind just assumed that the smudged word was SHIT
  3. Thanks bro, same address u came to last time plz
  4. None I was just being cheeky when I saw u guys at it
  5. I know you bid against Kim and then me ha
  6. haha yes the problem is that you only get a small amount of desulphation before it starts to boil and you need to wait for it to cool off- but it will definitely help.
  7. So just an FYI for anyone who cares to follow along The Old busa battery is now up to 4.5Ah of capacity when doing the discharge test at 4watts down to a cut off voltage of 12.1v. Thats obviously a huge increase from the originally tested .4Ah and has taken around a week and about 2 minutes every night to switch alligator clips around. I *THINK* that optimum capacity would be around 6Ah if doing this test on the battery when new, but I really do not know what voltage the factory tests down to when specifying capacities. Regardless- If i hadn't bought a new battery this one would be totally usable now- Thankfully it will have a good home in my lawn mower To make the battery more usable I've been running an AliExpress desulphator circuit on it- Basically, it feeds the battery a high voltage pulse (From 0v to around 22v I think). The High voltage pushes energy through the sulphate crystals and knocks them off the lead plates- the pulse stops the battery from overheating as actual amps in is very low. Theres people on YT saying you don't need to bother with that and they jam on some high voltage DC and carefully monitor amps and temperature- but thats too much admin for me- the pulse circuit is simply set and forget. Routine: connect pulse circuit to battery for 24hrs. run capacity test for 24 hrs (I just check it each night, no idea how long its sitting idle for once it finishes) repeat steps 1 and 2 until capacity stops increasing. In my case the first capacity test was .4Ah, then 1.5Ah, then 3Ah, then 4.4Ah, then 4.5Ah, so its obviously as good as its going to get, time to move on to the next one.
  8. Its incredible, you need to put up more photos!
  9. Wtf Last reply December 19, and only has three likes. And its been bumped somehow. I'm so confused.
  10. @Roman if you scope creep to include a roots blower driven by the old eco engine- I'll buy you dinner.
  11. So the shed is mostly done, although available capacity for projects is at less than 75% as we are living in the end of it. The beetle needs to come home this week as we are losing the storage unit so it is time to get it rolling. Not a terribly difficult task by any means and took a few hours to trim down the torsion rod spring things, drill new dimples and get it all greased and assembled with new seals etc. It was definitely nice using the new shed for car stuff, and nice being able to just reach into a box and pull out clean/new bits for assembly. Terrible pointless update, here's a boring photo or two.
  12. Yup technology is amazing. Tonight I assembled a basic watt meter/load with voltage switch thing so that I can test battery capacities accurately. Its all just cheap shit from ali express but seems to work OK. You connect a fully charged battery and press the button on the side, this engages the resistors to give a 30 watt load, and then when voltage gets down to 12.1 it disconnects the load and holds capacity information on the screen. During discharge it also displays load in Watts and battery voltage. Quite neat. The old busa battery drops from 13v to 12.3 very quickly,and in total outputs just 0.4Ah before it disengages the load at 12.1v I know that I'd get more out of the battery if there was a smaller load (manufacturers test Ah over a ten hour draw down or something) but it should still be a lot better than what I got. Not quite brave enough to connect and test the new battery though, LOL.
  13. Over the past few years I've been increasingly interested in automotive batteries and how they actually function. Its not something that most people give a second thought to coz its a fuckin boring topic- but relevant to me because there's 6 vehicles/machines in the garage which all need batteries to function, and EVERY single bloody time i bring something home with a battery, the battery is ALWAYS fucked or near fucked. The Busa was the same. Id checked current draw from the electrical system while sitting and there was definitely nothing noteworthy but it'd go flat after sitting for a week off charge- and it only juuuust started the morning after brass monkey. Not fucking ideal because its a big motor to get push started- 100% certain it wouldn't work on event he steepest of grassy hills. Then a couple of days after returning from the trip I got all geared up in my leathers, rolled the bike outside and planned on hooning to work- Pretty much just got a "click" before it was completely dead again. So researched things way way too much and ended up buying a Motobatt Hybrid battery. I'll be clear- I have no idea how they function internally except that they are a hybrid of normal AGM lead acid and lithium batteries (This may be lithium ion, or may be some other type of lithium battery, no idea). Each half of the battery supports the other half when it is outside of its happy operating parameters. The Lithium side helps with its huge CCA output, capacity and weight reduction and the lead acid side assists its cold weather performance (lithium batteries hate the cold) and means the battery can be charged on standard chargers (fast and maintenance). All cell balancing is taken care of internally and there is also over charge and over discharge protection built in- basically, if voltage drops below a certain level then the batteries output is disconnected- and not reconnected until the battery is woken back up with a charger. I was also happy that the battery lists an actual honest amp hour capacity- this is kinda irrelevant on lead acid cells and is essentially a lie on Lithium Iron batteries from manufacturers like Shorai. Basically, lead acid cells list a capacity but only half of this capacity is available before the battery starts being irreversibly damaged inside. Most manufacturers state that only 50% of the batteries capacity can be safely used- so a 12Ah battery becomes 6Ah. Its 2021. Batteries shouldn't be that bloody easy to ruin Numbers are also muddled by lithium iron battery manufacturers like Shorai listing their capacities as "Ah Pb Eq", which means it is equivalent to a lead acid of X capacity. So, as above, a big dollar "12Ah Pb Eq" shorai is actually only of 6Ah capacity by design. I forgot where I was going, but basically, the new battery is the same size, but 1.8kg lighter, 350 CCA vs 120CCA of old, is rated to output that at 0 degrees C, and has a usable capacity of 8.5Ah vs approximately 6 of the old lead acid. Plus the protections listed earlier. I reckon this is a win, and hopefully means that I can use this thing to charge all my devices (phone, torch, helmet coms etc) while out and about without having to worry. So yeah nobody has probably read that and it lacks any actual value whatsoever so here's some images so your click wasn't entirely wasted. Can see the configurable terminals which can be moved to either side of the cell. Also, check out front sprocket size!
  14. So took this down to Brass Monkey. Was an epic 6 days of riding with good people on some great roads. Was excellent not having to worry about anything bike related (except fuel) during the trip. These things are so tractable, comfortable and easy to live with. Bloody magic. Gear selection continues to amuse me. At 100 you can choose any gear from 2nd to 6th depending on how rapidly you think you need to be accelerating. 6th gear at 100 is still going to pull away harder than most cars so usually no point in changing down. Cruising through town at 50 I tend to choose a gear based on how much noise pollution I feel they need. The rack worked flawlessly and it was handy being able to access the storage so easily. My stropping down on gear was not as flawless and I lost a spendy camp matress somewhere between Blenheim and kaikoura...but was a small price to pay for an otherwise great trip I really need a new chain now, shits fucked.
  15. That's my motto too, but this is because I'm too dumb to understand what the correct amount of steel looks like . If in doubt, make it bigger.
  16. Good morning mate. Wow, have not been here for some time So dunno if you follow the two wheel stuff but the timeline was like. I buy a 525 KTM with the goal of getting it road legal I find out It cant be made road legal in NZ as its a SA import with no papers I buy a road legal 530 KTM with the agreement (with wife) that I sell the 525. I find a bloke that will swap both the 525 and the 530 for a Hayabusa. Wife is like, "fuck you, thats not how this was going down, you had 4k for a bike not 8k, we need that money" I hurriedly sell LS/car parts in an attempt to raise the 4k that i'd have otherwise made by selling a bike. It works. She's kinda happy but not really. I get a hayabusa. tldr I sold most of my really cool shit, but dont regret it. The ute (And beetle) are definitely on my mind and get thought about a few times each week. When things return to normal (And im not living in the shed) I'll be finishing off the last of the rust repairs and putting the kitset of parts together. No idea on what the engine will be but the allure of an LS has kinda been lost now that I have something fast.
  17. Wow had no idea they were still assembling cars here in 98. When did that end?
  18. Kinda. The laser comes out of my japseye
  19. Best to plan for the worst, but hope for the best. These are frame sliders and bolt into the front engine mounts. The hardest part of installation is precisely locating the required 25mm hole. The manual recommends a laser and I have one from the shed build that I never thought would have an automotive use. Step one, take off fairing and shine laser cross onto engine bolt hole location. Step two, re install fairing and drill a 25mm hole where the cross indicates. Step three, bolt down the aluminium spacers and plastic sliders. I went to 40 nm and used medium loctite. The laser works bloody well, look at the nice fit!
  20. Damn that's incredible! You gotta be happy with that
  21. Personally I only like the idea of having them potted in epoxy or something (iv used hot glue before) as its all then 100% waterproof and protected
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