flyingbrick

Would look better if you left the wood

Nice car man

Cheers man. I did clean it with a stainless wire wheel but it wasn't new and I didn't go far enough away from the weld. When I do the sides I 'll use a new stainless wheel etc and solvents as you say. Cheers!

It probably needs a stretched rear end with that motor!

Having to put our lovely German shepherd to sleep yesterday avo put an end to fun times RIP Dara Got back into it today. I did lots of thinking about the sumps front height and decided to reduce it by about another inch. Hopefully it clears everything inside- will worry about that later. Off the mill. The section missing is where the oil filter was once located. And here is a piece from my other aluminium welding thread: And test fitting You may have noticed the bowl is offset to one side. That is to give me a little extra space down through here on the passenger side.

So I tacked the main bits together and couldn't help but have a play on the front edge ( where I'm guessing it won't cause too much war page while not bolted down) Basically my first pass was terrible. It was popping and cracking and melting away in spots to reveal huge craters. I used copious amounts of filler and worked quickly at 150A. The filler seemed to flush all the shit out. I was left with a very big bulbus weld covered in black flecks like I'd thrown black sand at wet silver paint. I then ground all of the weld off and started again- then just had a few spots to grind out and fill in afterward. I did second run at 100A and i was able to go at a much nicer speed- but material was stinking hot by then. This pic shows the impurities that have popped to the surface when I got a bit off track on the second pass. And overall. I'm pretty happy with that! And it hasn't cracked. It's lumpy because I'm using 3mm filler rods as that's all I have. More dabs of 2mm rod be nicer. Is there any harm is running back over the weld to tidy it up? Any advice much appreciated. I must be on the right track?

Thanks man. If it doesn't crack while cooling should I have it annealed afterward to remove stresses?

It's not the cast I'm worried about really. It's the cast mixed with tread plate mixed with heat cycling . I have NO experience with this sort of thing. I did a shit tone of reading last night which helped with regards to temps, pre heating, removing contaminates etc. I guess worst case is that it cracks and I have to replace it/ who cares

Hi all. Paranoia Is on the rise. I'm ready to blaze my sump together but need to know if there is any reason why I shouldn't use this scrap Ali tread plate of unknown constitution. I know it will look daft but don't care. I'll say its for added surface area and cooling or something It will be welded to the cast flanges with aluminium rods which are are also unknown ( I'll check the code on them in morning) It's obviously a important part and it will be subjected to heat cycling and vibration.

Put sump upside down on table. Rested scribe on a block of 3" steel and marked round perimeter of bowl. Then cut bottom off with a cut disk. Then took a skim over the whole edge with the mill to ensure its dead flat and nice. The front portion of the sump will be 70mm deep. Maybe deeper than is needed but it fits with the motors current location. I have a rear sump one coming but will sell it if this turns out OK. Mine will hold more oil and fit this car better anyway!! I've heard rumors that the sump is structural on the LS motors but after seeing some of the flimsy aftermarket pans being used it doesn't look to be a huge issue. Just taking a break ( had to do some actual work......)

Still drawing brackets and different pieces. Next up is the alternator mounting bracket. I like to mix it up a little and decided I needed a reason to try the welders AC. I like the factory valve covers a whole lot more than aftermarket so decided I'd clean them up a bit before spraying wrinkle paint. I cut off the coil mount lugs and filed things flush then welded up the remaining holes. I've done very little aluminium welding and nothing on cast before so had some issues with porosity in the casting- basically bubbles coming up out of the weld pool. I know this is a casting issue because i was uncovering them as i filed down the lugs. I managed to get them pretty good on the first cover but it was time consuming and I was not really sure if I was doing the right thing ( advice appreciated, I was just moving pool round and adding clean material until the area seemed higher than surrounding material and free of shit).. So the second one just got the blind holes filled with kneed it ( great stuff for lazy people) I'm thinking something wanky like red with the two lines filled in with black. If I ever run into rocker clearance issues there are reasonably priced 1/2" spacers available. Before and after Welding issues (got it much better then filled a bit with kneed it) Both nearly finished

Wowwww

If carbon intake I would give mike shaw a call. Prices aren't bad and very nice quality. If u made a plug and posted to him he'd do the rest

I'd be in but will be away on honeymoon Keen to see how you find the new karts!!

So you want to mount it on the end of the crank? Or just on a different style of mounting plate?

Hi all. I've been having a great time with the project. I had to remove a fair bit more if the firewall than I had planned- and the motor is a far but further in front of the front spindles than I desired- but I had to call it quits as pushing it back another inch requires a LOT more cutting. I keep telling myself it's an Ali block and it won't really matter. It probably has 70% of the block behind the front wheels. Thanks to a few people on oldschool I've started using CAD. I reckon I'm getting pretty boss at it too! At least in 2d. First up (I got some help with this) is the water inlet/outlet plates which will take -12an fittings to let me use a remote electric water pump and thermostat. I had one of the guys trace in CAD a gasket that I'd scanned- he gave me back a file which had the center locations of all the holes plotted out. I then drew a nice outline around them and added the correct size holes. A few test fits and revisions later and I have this They will be water jet cut out of 20mm thick aluminium. The idea came from these morosso parts I have also drawn up both engine and chassis engine mount plates. The small lines are to show where folds need to be placed. This is my rather ugly trans mount. Undecided if I should gusset it or redo. I tried using a modified factory mount but the location of the isolation bush was going to load the tail shaft housing mounts incorrectly and I'm just too paranoid. This has been test fit and will work fine.

Does it matter which direction you spin an alternator?

I know autospeed fairly well.They keep rehashing the same stuff over and over- really need some new contributors. I think they send me e-mails still- the last one I bothered to open was about DIY timers / DIY water spray controllers part 10 and I yawned. Also tried reading some suspension stuff there but it was all about reverse trike bicycles and was more of a blog Edit: giving AS another go. Looks like they are doing well since my last look

Sweet Post piston size once you get it open too

I suggest opening them up and checking seals and bores mate

So now what's going to happen is I'll read these books Then fuck it up anyway

I did think about that and had a look at prices- I'm pretty sure I saved money going fishpond rather than amazon ( could be wrong!) It just seemed much easier to buy from nz

Thanks! I have bought chassis engineering by herb, how to make your car handle by Fred and a book on GM LS swaps all from fishpond. Great pricing. I also found a few available on the apple news stand for like $10 (rather than $30 for the actual book) and nearly bought there instead but then ya can't share! I'm surprised at fishponds catalogue actually- heaps available

Thanks all, time to warm up the credit card

What do people recommend I read or who should I ask about this. The gem is about to get a simple alteration but I need to know it won't fuck shit up.