flyingbrick

Hey. .. ya get what ya pay for... and I'm CHEAP hahaha

Love your work. please paint mine!

Haven't seen build thread but dam I hope this is the scorpion

this is really it... better motors with more support that make more power cheaper. ls motors can be found cheap if you wait.it sounds like budget is an issue (it is for everyone here) so unless you have a particular love of toyotas just go buy something that is actual v8 and then have fun driving. I love my v8 coon and they can be found for less than 4k. IV seen manual conversions for less than 1k. I have also seen a coon do about 10 laps of the terapa roundabout sideways chev/holden is better but you pay more for wof reg car

Hey I recognize that seat.

I'd find a way of getting exactly what you want. Save up for a few months longer/ worry about paying fir wheels later.

Wow, you are making good progress mate!

I reckon easiest way would be to lathe up a plug and mould trumpets with cf or fiberglass. I have no experience with injection molding but surely it's an expensive process?

Maybe do a compression test first? Imagine if all it needed was fluids and very basic mechanical stuff

That black one looks amazing aye. Just needs a sump guard. I wish I could convince the wife that I need a bike

Nice bike man. Single sided swing arms never seem to be used off road. I wonder if there are strength issues.

Mothballs.

Mothballs.

Mothballs.

Yeah very funny! He was like look at this sweet Wagon I got a pic of, qI think it's an old Buick. Then I looked up the build thread and we both went shit small world- cars are visually identical so must be the same. I'll get the pic up asap

I haven't been following this but did you drive the wag to bathurst? My dad in law went over and came back with a pic of this car (guessing)

Would look better if you left the wood

Nice car man

Cheers man. I did clean it with a stainless wire wheel but it wasn't new and I didn't go far enough away from the weld. When I do the sides I 'll use a new stainless wheel etc and solvents as you say. Cheers!

It probably needs a stretched rear end with that motor!

Having to put our lovely German shepherd to sleep yesterday avo put an end to fun times RIP Dara Got back into it today. I did lots of thinking about the sumps front height and decided to reduce it by about another inch. Hopefully it clears everything inside- will worry about that later. Off the mill. The section missing is where the oil filter was once located. And here is a piece from my other aluminium welding thread: And test fitting You may have noticed the bowl is offset to one side. That is to give me a little extra space down through here on the passenger side.

So I tacked the main bits together and couldn't help but have a play on the front edge ( where I'm guessing it won't cause too much war page while not bolted down) Basically my first pass was terrible. It was popping and cracking and melting away in spots to reveal huge craters. I used copious amounts of filler and worked quickly at 150A. The filler seemed to flush all the shit out. I was left with a very big bulbus weld covered in black flecks like I'd thrown black sand at wet silver paint. I then ground all of the weld off and started again- then just had a few spots to grind out and fill in afterward. I did second run at 100A and i was able to go at a much nicer speed- but material was stinking hot by then. This pic shows the impurities that have popped to the surface when I got a bit off track on the second pass. And overall. I'm pretty happy with that! And it hasn't cracked. It's lumpy because I'm using 3mm filler rods as that's all I have. More dabs of 2mm rod be nicer. Is there any harm is running back over the weld to tidy it up? Any advice much appreciated. I must be on the right track?

Thanks man. If it doesn't crack while cooling should I have it annealed afterward to remove stresses?

It's not the cast I'm worried about really. It's the cast mixed with tread plate mixed with heat cycling . I have NO experience with this sort of thing. I did a shit tone of reading last night which helped with regards to temps, pre heating, removing contaminates etc. I guess worst case is that it cracks and I have to replace it/ who cares

Hi all. Paranoia Is on the rise. I'm ready to blaze my sump together but need to know if there is any reason why I shouldn't use this scrap Ali tread plate of unknown constitution. I know it will look daft but don't care. I'll say its for added surface area and cooling or something It will be welded to the cast flanges with aluminium rods which are are also unknown ( I'll check the code on them in morning) It's obviously a important part and it will be subjected to heat cycling and vibration.