cletus

Or do this

Not sure who does them in nz , you could try adrenalinR? They might be able to make one

Yes as long as it meets all the other requirements in the virm threshold, and the pedals had enough clearance to not cause issues

Is it a bosch alternator with a plug that looks like an injector plug on it? If so One is the sense wire, goes to the battery Other one is the warning lamp I got one the other day and I think the guy said it will work without the warning light hooked up but it's a good idea to hook it up anyway

'Body transfer vehicle' Could apply to any car haha

Yes, definitely

Make sure you get a big light bar and a 'fuck 1080' sticker

Correct, any change to the brake system needs cert

Yep no problem if it's a solid shaft and you can cut, shorten, and respline

Might be barking up the wrong tree as I am the opposite of an electrical whiz But I have heard of this being an issue with some alternators backfeeding other circuits so the car keeps running even with ignition turned off

The breather inlet is sometimes a gauze in the oil filler cap but from memory most us spec engines used the air filter housing to suck clean air from by the 70s Other tips- dont run the pcv off a single runner if your manifold has a fitting in it, it will make that cylinder run lean and idle funny, and dont 't' off the vac booster hose- use a separate port

For the pcv system to work properly it has to be plumbed in to vacuum. See technical drawing for how factory set ups are

Unless the engine is a bit tired or you do a lot of high rpm stuff, IMO you probably won't need a catch can, you could simplify it a bit by blocking that hole in the back of the block, put a pcv valve in 1x rocker cover and breather in the other Or, if you want to use the catch can, put the pcv valve in it instead of the breather otherwise there might not be enough vacuum effect to suck all the gases out properly if theres 3 breathers

I live there, can pick up for you

@RXFORD /Matt at tin tricks helped me out again making this fancy bracket which gets rid of the bonnet catch stuff and mounts the top of the intercooler, grilles etc and I made some brackets for the bottom of the i/c Also spent a while making the engine fit under the bonnet, cut a bit out of the mounts and spacers under the front subframe, now it has 1x bees dick of clearance

I couldn't find a discussion thread so here it is What is the little plaque in the glovebox? Also IMO it's always a good idea to run a PCV system, the main reason being it gets rid of stinky fumes that get in the cabin

Colin @ rollingaddiction fabrication does nice work, hes in silverdale and does a few exhausts I dont have a contact number but hes on Instagram

Its going to look good on those wheels! Are you repainting the whole car or just the repaired parts?

Intercooler pipes mostly done. Need to sort a bov and tidy/paint them Also sorted a water pump pulley and crank pulley combo- these I had bought ages ago as a box of parts off a marine engine which never fitted anything so had to modify a few things, now I can mount the alternator on the front of the lh head which is opposite to how they usually are

Yeah the rules around tyre tread coverage are a bit confusing as the lvv rules are different to the wof ones But a big mud flap should be enough to make it comply

Someone with '2C' on here https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/CertifierList-Website.pdf

Not that I'm aware of. You could ask a vinz/vtnz guy to check for you

Vin no will still be ok. Once it has a 17 digit vin assigned to the vehicle, that's it for life. Next step will be fix it, get repair cert, then take it back to a vinz/vtnz for re registration inspection

Last update for 2019 I got annoyed at my brain going around in circles about intercooling, between water to air, air to air, or doing water meth injection. Spent waaay too much time reading stuff on the internet I'd actually bought most of the stuff to do W2A but it adds a lot of weight and more stuff to do A2A means I lose the bonnet catch so I'll have to put up with 1x dick punch from @RUNAMUCK due to bonnet pins Water/meth is the easiest route but so much conflicting information on whether it works well or not plus the unit I was looking at was $800 So to stop going around in circles any more I stopped thinking about it and attacked the front with a cut off wheel and a hole saw Got some piping mocked up and the warm side, which was the side that looked like it was going to be difficult, is pretty easy using piping I cut up that was on the vg

This 100%