cletus

its a lot easier to buy a wilwood/tilton/ap pedal box in my opinion the rules are a bit tricky to find because they are not all in the same place. are you wanting to make your own?

have had people in the same situation who have added another mount in line with the gearbox mount to strengthen the offset crossmember, and others who have moved/ made new mounts in the tunnel so the crossmember can be straight the test I use is pretty basic, I grab the driveshaft or gearbox, if i can flex it up and down much, it needs sorting.

can I make a suggestion without sounding like a know it all that gearbox crossmember- I have seen a few like that where the weight is offset from the mounts a fair distance, and they usually have a lot of flex, ie enough to fail cert

@johnny.race have you had much to do with 8.8 ford diffs?

I think if you think of it in a dumbed down way it becomes clearer Like if you try to undo a tight wheel nut with a short ratchet vs a powerbar. Same theory, you have more leverage the further away your hand gets the less pressure you have apply with your hand. In my experience a car will always stop better and resist fade better with a larger disc. Have had examples where people have upgraded calipers, ie one customer had a commodore with a v8 swap, it failed the brake test because it still had 6cyl brakes which are basically the same as v8 ones apart from the disc diameter. He put wilwood calipers on the 6 cyl disc and it still failed. Went to v8 size disc and it passed

Plenty of oe brake upgrades like that, same caliper and pad but bigger disc 1800 mx5 vs 1600 FG XR6T vs non turbo Are a couple that spring to mind

Yep no reason why you can't do that

cert rules- when its an engine swap, emissions standard applies, and a post 75 engine needs an operational pcv system. it seems to be one of those things that people think makes a big difference to performance- but having had engines both ways, I would always run a pcv system, it reduces the amount of stinky fumes.

have seen them on the internet, but not on a car here. the side loading could be an issue- if its a steel washer rubbing on the side of the bracket, that might not be ideal long term on a street car

thanks for sharing your story, that's a long way in a little car!

how much is deezil there?

I don't think it would make much of a difference myself, but no reason why you couldn't add it if you want the lower coilover bolt and crush tube holds the 2 plates together, and the part that wants to 'tear off' is at the other end of where an extra weld would be for the added plate. have you done a design approval for the front end?

I had a 2 litre auto one for work for a while. that was a hungus turd Replaced it with a BA wagon and everyone was all HOMG FALCON GUZZLER USE ALL THE FUELS Falcon used less fuel due to not WOT all day just to get anywhere. Also weirdly the van used to send me to sleep quite often. Have not ever had it happen since. TLDR GLWS

Matt sent me some better pics of when he was doing the floor and stuff

Made some subframe connectors out of some 75x40x3 rhs and glued them in

You won't need to drain the trans, some might spill out the converter but it won't be much. Try and pull the motor out straight, until the converter is out, if it gets pulled on an angle it could damage the pump in the trans

weren't they bad for cracking heads?

There's a explorer at wiri zebra with a complete diff at the moment . 3.73 lsd @f100_dreamin

Have driven a few cars with 3.5" exhausts, with adrenalin r straight through mufflers that work much better than you'd think - not that loud, no drone. All turbo cars though.

I paid pretty much that for edelbrock heads . Granted that was a few years back but it might be worthwhile pricing them up I had a clever head guy go through them as well, he said they were fine, only thing he did was valve springs were upgraded to handle boost . I used factory rocker gear to start with, but had to go to roller rockers cause the pushrods poked holes in the stamped steel ones

I used 318 magnum pistons in the last engine I built- better compression height and a true flat top piston with no valve reliefs

what application?

correct, 2 threads past the nut

if you just have 2x ujoints, you wont need another support, the steering column (if its got a bush/bearing in the bottom) will support one, steering box will support the other if the body is rubber mounted you will need some sort of flex in the system to allow for body movement on the chassis- either a rubber rag joint, or ujoints and a sliding shaft