cletus

Do you mean cut it out and leave it out?

Customer supplied those to prove his arms he made himself were stronger than the original ones

I couldn't say from pics 100% they would be ok or not. I'd have to look at it in person The bits that look like they 'may' be an issue are the radius just behind the second front bush to clear the steering is quite sharp, and the bracket at the chassis end isn't supported where the bush is, although the bracket does get clamped by the gbox member from memory? . But it all might be fine. I did have a customer who made his own arms for a landcruiser, and the radius for the steering arm was too big and it failed FEA testing compared to the factory arm He redesigned them and then they were ok after that How much are you lifting the suspension? IMO a patrol starts to get a bit yuck with more than a 3" lift due to panhard bar angles

As mentioned usually the plates are fitted on the floor which is probably the easiest way. I have done a couple where plates have been welded in to the bottom of the pillar, which looks neater, but you would need to talk to your certifier first to make sure hes happy with that, as it's not in the book . And it wrecks the paint There is a recipe in the ccm which allows for welding an upper pillar anch in the pillar

Pg hydraulics in east tamaki is the only place I could recommend with confidence for steering work

Yea that wouldn't pass even with ndt Any welding on a steering component that is critical for steering control cant be welded

V8 valiants have an upside down filter. It doesnt have any clever drain paths so if you dont cut up an old drink bottle to catch the oil it goes all over the engine and floor and exhaust The other downside is you cant prefill the filter so it takes a couple of seconds of the genie lamp being on/lifters rattling before it fills the filter up itself And there's my sharn on that.

Nah you should be fine. I've bought a lot of the bits for my Plymouth from rockauto

Can be certed but you need to strengthen the arm because the weight is then concentrated on two small bolt holes which were only meant for shocks. Also coil bind can be a problem if you have a heavy engine eg a big block in a camaro I looked at had that issue If it was me I'd probably just get a spring that worked in the stock position and run a good adjustable shock

Are you talking about lvv cert or re registration? Re reg I have minimal experience but as ranter said you have to fit pads which have a standard on them

What is the advantages of a full crank vs a counterweighted one?

Dont own one but have driven a few tuned ones , for all the hype they seemed a bit meh to me, didn't really go that well I thought. I'm not super clued up on landcruisers so I dont know what a 70 series suspension is like but the ute type ones with leaf springs rear ride horribly as well

Vintage 'grumpy' grumble done busted his shifter

No shouldn't need cert if it all bolts up to original anchorages.

Should be ok if it's the same thing, just minus the throttle I did ask lvvta the other day if those were ok and they said yes but may need ndt for the welded brake pedal I just looked at the cardwells site again and you could possibly use a separate clutch and brake setup and it was $356 for both, with a cast pedal which would avoid having to ndt the pedal Fastener clearance is really only on critical components or things that transmit high loads eg steering arms or 4 link brackets, things like that . If you do the same as/no worse than oe for engine mount brackets you should be ok

Matt at tin tricks in east tamaki is good. 0212174158 He did some work on my car, fixed the floors, made a new inner guard to delete the lumps where the battery was mounted, and deleted the heater holes

Yes does need cert

What were the reactions from barries like regarding the exhaust?

For interests sake https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hotrod.com/articles/what-is-mallory-metal/amp/

5L, possibly with some force feeding? Easy bolt in and technology like a bag of rocks

Is there any advantage for having diesel vs petrol where you are? Over here diesel is a lot cheaper but we have to pay per km travelled so it works out about the same. I did a job on a hilux that had a turbo 1kz put in it instead of a 3L, it went pretty good

I had a quick look on cardwells site and there was a floor mount brake/clutch one for $540ish, no master cyls though

Nah it's probably china junk. Here are the pre approved ones

Probably ok, havnt seen any of that particular brand, usually the main issue with them is the belt buckle so if yours is off the floor you should be ok.