cletus

When I was doing exhaust noise certs, adrenalin r was the muffler of choice to actually reduce noise while still flowing well. A couple of ported rotaries managed to pass with twin primary pipes with 2 resonators in each, merge before the diff then a big single muffler out the back

Technically would need cert if you put a spacer on top of the strut @AllTorque s idea is better but just make sure the spring has coil clearance at full compression so your mate doesnt end up with coil bind issues

Looks like a good design. Who makes them? If it's a "recognized manufacturer " then there is less involved than if it's someone doing one offs Worst case scenario it might need NDT and making sure the tube sizes meet our requirements

Yes. The fact that the lower part is a casting/forging and it has had a new strut tube and gussets welded to it, getting that legal would be unlikely or at least extremely difficult Unfortunately with early ford stuff , you are limited to modifying the original parts or spend large amounts getting parts custom made to get around the 'no welding to cast or forged parts' rule

Speaking of notches, lol

I've been in some inner turmoil deciding what to do with this thing but I think I'll keep it for a bit. A mate is keen on buying my van so that takes care of what to do with too many vehicles Have spent a bit of time looking at other ones on the internet and I'd like it to look like these pretty much. 4/6 drop= spindles and springs in the front, axle flip rear and a small notch

If you want Bilstein, Autolign in mt Wellington is a dealer and can custom build to your specs Iain did these coilovers for my project

I'd say 10mm thick steel minimum. Have you got a plan for making them the right shape? I assume they will have a dogleg in them like those ones do?

@M.H. sorry, it's in the standard not in the info sheet Was the aussie built one ever made with a turbo on it on that particular engine?

There is an exemption for diesels with turbos fitted if you meet the requirements of the lvvta info sheet 07-2016 From memory can only be exempted if its mechanically injected and uses a OE turbo off a factory turbo version

Good idea to change the rear hose. Those particular ones with the textured outer were original equipment on a lot of cars in the 70s and 80s and they can be quite deteriorated without showing any signs of perishing on the outside like a 'normal' hose

I did some searching to find what brand of spindles they are as there is only a couple of casting numbers on them, no brand name. The only pics I could find where the castings appeared to be the same manufacturer had a minor issue

I assume pulsed as theres an electrical plug with enough wires for 8 injectors I was googling stuff about them and someone mentioned 'poppet injectors ' so I'm picking theres a electric injector in the main block which lets fuel down the tube and the injector at the end makes some fuel jizz out when it gets to x amount of pressure?

Yeah that's the one. oddball thing that wasn't made for very long- 96 to 98 as far as I know The body is a bit different as well, 3 door which was only made for 97 and 98 Injectors

Was unable to resist , was a good price. Boss sold it to me, it's a 98 so last of this shape, quite high miles but in the last 80k it has had a rebuilt trans and a new crate tree fiddy Needs a little bit of work but came with most of the parts to do so, and needs paint tidying up I'm not actually sure if I'll keep it or not, the only things that put me off are the size of it and how much pertol it will use. Apparently this engine is a bit better than the earlier TBI engines, economy wise Is considerably more comfortable than the van. If I keep it , it will be getting a reduction in ride height, it handily came with a set of drop spindles in the parts pile

I had a yarn to a guy who tuned a lot of LS powered commodores a few years ago, he said some of the rich running especially when cold was to do with emissions ie when you start when cold, the timing is retarded and the mixture is quite rich to get the cats warmed up as quickly as possible Also tuning to run lean causes increases in other emissions (NOx) which isn't great for the environment and a normal catalytic converter cant get rid of it

I might have a th shift lever spare, I'll have a look on the weekend

Battery I purchased last weekend A question for purveyors of car parts Does that sticker mean its past it's best by date? @GuyWithAviators

Yeah it's the mods that go with a wide body that make it need cert, cut guards, increased track width, big wheels, adapters, stuff like that

Dunno, only ones I've been involved with have been removal due to putting aftermarket seats in, or fitting late model seats in old cars where you leave it disconnected Might be easier to fit the heat pads into your seat?

You might want to talk to your certifier, but I would accept a photo with a ruler next to it, might help if you take a pic of the plates before you fit them to show the rounded edges as well

Ok couple of things. 1. As Kyteler mentioned, the rack doesnt look straight, the angle on the rack end is greater on the passenger side, need to make sure it is level/same both sides 2. Make sure the tie rod ends are the same, and are tight in the steering arms so the pivot points are the same height/ distance from the steering arm on both sides 3. Have you swapped the spindles around to make it front steer? One issue with that is depending on the geometry of the original suspension, that can stuff up the Ackerman angles and give it "anti Ackerman " which causes scrubbing on tight turns. I dunno what the rules for engineering are in Australia but you might want to talk to your engineer about that. I cant tell from the pics if that's going to be a problem or not but something to keep in mind. You can check it with your bump steer bars by making sure it toes out, at full lock. Or have you fitted the later model spindles? 4. If after all that you check it again and the tie rod ends are still too high, the good thing is that's the easiest problem to sort as you might be able to find a tie rod end that has a different height pivot, or convert to a spherical bearing/heim joint/rose joint with the appropriate length spacer, or you might be able to move the lower inner arm pivot point by re drilling the hole for the lower arm bolt

Have you got a pic of the front end, and of the hub/steering arm/tie rod end?

Looking at your pics in your build thread it may be easier to move the rack a bit. You will be surprised at how little you need to move stuff to make a big difference, rack might only need to go up 10mm *edit* as adoom said

I would say fit a latch on both sides. What did the wagon version have from factory?