cletus

I think @RUNAMUCK has some experience in this area via the use of stiffer springs in the clutches Also need to make sure the cones and housing are not worn so the cone bottoms out and stops working apparently they can have issues with stripping the splines out of the cones as the spline is narrow, the one in my vg survived fine though and that had a turbo v8 for awhile and I may have done wheelspins once or twice

Will need cert.

That would be fine, but Whenever changing bump stop position or length, you need to make sure that there are no things like arms fouling the body, tyres hitting the body, or joints binding because the suspension is operating in a different range of travel than the original design Bump stop type, location, and setup is one thing that is very common to get wrong, a lot of people don't understand what the bump stop does and how important it is

Or Kelvin@ cartune in Hamilton, he used to sell swap parts for toyota v8 conversions UZ swaps seem to have died off from 10 years ago, don't see them very often now Edit, beaten like a Sunday morning egg

Do it Embrace the push rod my son There is no need for anything more than 5000rpm on the dark side

Cast alloy wheels They have a million spoke surfaces so are a grade a bumhole to keep clean What's a magical spray I can put on here to get rid of the shmutz? I'm thinking about painting the rough cast bits black to replicate a factory wheel on a different model . I've tried some mag wheel cleaner and decontamination spray stuff that turns iron purple Or possibly vapour blasting if that would prevent the dust etc from sticking They are nearly impossible to clean properly once the disc and pulley are on

Be aware, falcons are really bad for the upper ball joint binding before the bumpstop limits the travel, a'shelby drop' or taller spindle makes it worse Most aftermarket ball joints have less travel than the original Ford ones

one thing to think of with mig welding, especially with a mig welder is the hot blobs can fall on the floor if the floor is painted, this can leave burn marks in the paint! just something to keep in mind, friend

are the wheels 9inch wide ? 235 60 16 would only be able to go on a 8.5" rim, if you are worried about legal things i believe wof inspectors are required to use the LVVTA tyre size chart as a guide

How are you going with your chopper build?

Did a loop around coromandel on Saturday, was cold as, it started running a bit funky towards the end but half a turn on a couple of screws and it's better than ever Got home after filling it up, noticed a slight weeping from the fuel tap, gave it a tighten and it fell off and dumped fuel everywhere, I managed to bung the hole with my finger and do some contortions to get my phone and call my mrs to come down to the garage to help drain the fuel into something other than the floor Anyway when I had the tank and petcock apart I'd fucked up putting it back together, it has a double ended left and right hand threaded nut and it was wound too far one way so the was very little thread holding it on, so an easy fix. Also got some small saddlebags so I have somewhere to put stuff like puncture repair kit and a couple of spanners etc Rear tyre is pretty much smoked, so will need another one soon, haven't even done any skids

When we bought our house it came with a similar looking cabinet! But no paint overspray...

This is a possibility that I have considered

Had this for sale on trademe for ages with surprisingly little interest, I rode it to work a few times and decided it's too good to sell cheap just for the sake of getting rid of it So it gets to stay

This In the case you describe.

heres how the pricing works a cert costs a certifier $270 incl gst, that is the fee paid to lvvta a wheels only re cert, costs the certifier $50, this is the same for a re print of the old alloy plate, or an update to an existing EDP (the donut thing) plus the certifiers time/travel/admin etc Lvvta requires a full set of paperwork for the car and mods, plus the wheels/tyres formset, a brake test, and one other form, so usually it ends up taking just as long as a regular cert check by the time i find all the mods, make sure they match the previous cert, and make sure they are still good or were done properly the first time, so basically, in practice- the only saving is the difference in cost to the certifier ($50 vs $270) so you can still get an old style plate reprinted with a different size wheel, if thats the only change. If theres ANYTHING else changed, then its the full cost, new cert and it gets changed from a plate to a new EDP side note, that $270 is actually subsidised by NZTA a certain amount per cert, so the facebook munters who go on about revenue gathering by the govt need to pull their head in, the govt actually contributes to the cost of running LVVTA and the certification system Autofile - News / Support helps cap certification fee increase

V3 of exhaust baffles The one that came in it was 2-1/4" louvered, but the louvers faced the wrong way for noise reduction Made previously mentioned 2" one with holes, steel wool that blew out then wrapped in fiberglass header wrap, this survived well but was still a bit rowdy This one is 2" louvered , with them faced for noise reduction, wrapped in stainless muffler packing wool, with a stainless mesh over the top of that

Yeah, that ^

This- Put a Jack, or big block of wood under the spring cup on the lower arm, so the tyre is far enough off the ground to fit some sort of lever under it- sometimes there's enough spring tension to disguise the play, jacking it up under the spring cup takes this out of the equation

This, don't drive it any more till you've jacked it up and figured it out If the joint separates when you're driving, you're going to have a bad time

Mig I have an owner bottle, it lasts for aaaaaages although I am a fairly occasional user, refills are cheap, bottle was 600 I think but that was a long time ago Tig I have a swap bottle with machinery house, you pay an upfront cost (I think it was about 600 as well? ) and you "own" that bottle, when it runs out you go to machinery house and swap it for a full one and pay the gas price

Nice work!

I did tell a guy who was a bit conspiracy ish that they have a chip and can be tracked, when I fitted the cert tag, the look on his face was lol

The problem is not the wof guy being a dick, it's more like the wof guy doesn't want to take ownership of your problem for $80 or whatever a wof costs. Example I've got a customer who gave a car a wof, and it had different size wheels to what the cert said, he blind eyed it because they knew each other, and he was keeping the car etc etc The car then got sold for quite a lot of money The new owner picked up the fact it wasn't certed for the wheels, and wanted it to match The seller of the car put it back on the wof guy, who got me to re cert it, which is when the problems started It wouldn't pass cert due to the wheels rubbing on the body, plus someone had ground the calipers to fit the wheels, so it needed a new pair of rear calipers, and a new set of wheels with the right offset, and the guy who had purchased the car wanted the same wheels, which were quite expensive In the end that wof inspection cost that shop about 10k This is the worst case I've seen, but the same situation happens regularly, where the owner is stoked they got a wof or cert, the buyer of a car doesn't like the car or finds things to pick on, then start pointing fingers at previous inspectors for $$ This is made 10x worse when the vehicle ends up at the other end of the country, because there's no easy way of fixing it without paying someone else to do the work TL;DR =have to stick to the rules to avoid problems later