Testament

[XSRPM] (probably was the fastest 130TC in the southern hemisphere) causing the end of targa 2008 by going into a tree at high speed in the pouring rain after passing joe mcandrews gtr I think. Driver and co driver were quite badly injured and car written off targa got called off due to the weather after that stage They were running right up the pointy end of classic, I think they still came 9th or something in even though they didnt finish the last stage

had to put a regrind in it eh? I know crofty does not like them at all - but he does sell his own so what rpm limit are you putting on it? still got std valvesprings? did you manage to get the LSD from XSRPM as well?

you could turn 1mm off the GTO pistons easily enough I would think, but yeah just an idea you seem to have this pretty well planned anyways.

what about pulling the pistons out of the GTO motor and putting them in the Mivec to lower the compression. Also forget twin turbo, big single turbo ftw.

ok skyline turbo rundown as there is alot of confusion in this thread. Most skyline turbos are made under license by nissan, only the early ones had actual garretts. That said they are copys pretty much apart from the ones with ceramic wheels. L20ET, late FJ20ET - T3 with small 0.42 exhaust housing Early FJ20 - Large 0.63 exhaust housing T3 Early RB20DET in R31 skyline not 100% sure but I think T25 with T3 exhaust flange R32 RB20DET - nissan made T25 with T3 flange, These have ceramic exhaust wheels and are prone to falling off over ~12psi or with excessive thrashing RB25DET - Based around a T3 but they are a nissan turbo with a bigger compressor wheel than a normal T3, still with a ceramic exhaust wheel but have a better reputation than the RB20 ones (capable of supporting 200+rwkw on an RB25) RB26DETT - Twin T25 (not T3 flange) The old Z31 300ZX's had single turbos, T3's I think 0.63 housing on the 3L and 0.42 on the 2 litre. The VG30DETT in the Z32 twin turbo had twin T25's The Best option would be to goto a GT25 or GT28, fast spool, modern design wheels which are more efficient across a wider operating range. that said they cost $1500+ usually Getting this guy to modify one as alistair says sounds like a pretty good option value for money. Personally I think I'd still steer clear of the chinese turbos, spence seems to have had ok luck? and same with some garage dori guys - but I know a couple of other people who have had them fall to bits as well.

it makes me cry

pretty much as other have said, change the diff - i would just use the 3.9 if you have it already otherwise go for 4.1 or 4.3 tyres- can you get some 13" or 15" rims that fit with stickier tyres as they are more available in those sizes? 13" with smaller dia. street/strip tyres could save you from changing the diff as it will shorten your gearing, although taller tyres have other benefits traction wise. drag slicks would almost certainly get you there but might not be what you want to do. more tuning - could give you a little more power/torque, but might not get you far enough. A bigger/longer duration cam might do it but would probably need to be done in conjunction with the diff swap to take advantage of more power at higher rpm. and higher rpm on stock parts is usually where trouble lies on old motors. cold air intake - making a fully ducted box with inlet at the front grille, wont get you there on its own but will have some benefit with lower intake temp and possible small ram air effect. weight reduction - cheapest performance increase there is, throw out everything you can/drill holes in it ala unclejake. suspension - drag racing suspension setup for more weight transfer, 90/10 shocks, softer springs etc.

it depends where and how come its cracked as to whether a lasting repair can be made. But it is definitely possible to do some weld repairs on aluminium heads unless the head is some really funky alloy.

sweet dude, need more valiants on OS by heaps. I will have to acquire my uncles VF sedan for a meet someday, too bad my planning is inferior and cant get to beach hop.

just a thought... if the spring rate is calculated per coil, and youve swapped spring lengths (this is where i presume longer spring has more coils than short one), would that actually change the overall rate/amount of force required to compress the spring? no spring rate is constant force/distance compressed (or stretched) - it doesnt matter how long it is bar the extremes e.g compressed up to coil bind or stretched past the yield point of the spring material.

thats what I mean, if you cant find anything else - maybe the old springs were softer than they were supposed to be.

but were the old springs 250lbs when they came out of the car?

If its not hanging up on something I'm guessing the springs are stiffer - they are the key change you have made. maybe the old springs were softer than you thought so when you asked for "x" spring rate its actually more than what the old springs were.

more slow progress, doing a dummy build up to make the extractors and other brackets and bits and pieces before paint. Have to figure out how to fit four 1m long 1.5" dia exhaust pipes in there now

2" primarys on a 2Litre 4cyl, too big. 1.5" should be plenty for all but the most extreme - better to be on the small side really.

the main factor is the rpm you want them tuned for - cam timing and pipe diameter have some effect but rpm is the key one. shorter pipes = higher rpm, longer pipes = lower rpm. 5000rpm is about 1m/40" in length. so as vvega says 44" is good for a pushrod v8 that isnt going to be pulling heaps of rpm. This is just tuning for 1st or 2nd harmonic on an individual cylinder, not tuning for pressure waves from one cylinder to scavenge another cylinder. also remember, tuning for max torque is the ideal. Yes you hardly ever see extractors of this length - its not because it doesnt work, its because its hard to fit them in, and the cars that it really matters for (race cars) are usually pulling high rpm so they have shorter pipes anyway.

berg cup stz in your grille, this one is jawsome 1.6L short stroke fiat twin cam with 16v head fitted doing about ten trillion rpm in car pics of build http://www.abarth-gmr.be/forum/index.ph ... 848.0.html

As runamuck said, these are mutually exclusive, bigger cam = worse idle. Probably not. It depends on the engine, but usually if you fit a bigger aftermarket cam your going to have to take the head off and do a dry build to check piston to valve clearance - UNLESS, its a known swap, but there is still some risk, do you know if the head for block have ever been skimmed etc. dry build is the only way to be 100% sure its ok. But again it depends alto on the engine, I dont know much about the dolly 16v motor so can't help you with that. Does it have a hemi head? is it an interference design? if it is either you have to take alot of care. Whats the compression ratio? there isn't much point in going for a bigger cam if the compression is still kinda low as you wont really be able to take advantage of it and will just end up losing heaps of low and mid range and gaining little if anything at higher rpm. Can the motor handle more revs, bigger cam is going to need more rpm to make best use of it as well, how strong is the bottom end and how many rpm can the valvetrain and valvesprings take safely? Can the ignition system handle more rpm or will it start to fail/misfire etc. ? this is not unusual with points. Lastly is a regrind any good on your motor? I know its a huge no-no on fiat motors because it fucks up the ramp angles at the start and end of the lobe so that the inital lift is too violent and the valve gets slammed back down on closing. The fiats are a totally different valvetrain (direct actuation), with pushrods and rockers etc. the base circle on your cam(s?) might eb alot larger and grinding them might be acceptable. The other issue with regrinds is that it takes off the surface layer of the cam lobe, if this was specifically hardened (it often is) then the regrind can wear out very quickly.

yeah big lols from here in taupo also

more like 0.1mm of where they need to be.

I just saw it said 1 in numerals. I cant read japanese and google didnt translate me a four that I coudl see. hmmm what does shipping cost though? I would buy them for that price if they were in NZ for sure, but from japan still not completely convinced.

I would, but one wheel for $600 ???? thats a rip.

what is the standard carb? or just get a Weber and be done with it. I think I have one or 2 off a lancia in bits in a box somewhere.

Mocked up an engine block, cylinder head and supercharger last night - The carb will have to be an IDA or IDF, there is only about 120mm clearance from the supercharger to the shock tower/inner guard. You could maybe face a DCOE forwards at 90 degrees to the supercharger inlet - but the change in direction would be tighter than going with a downdraft where are least you can get in a decent radius elbow. A few specs on how the thing will be -VX rotating assembly in an argenta block ~ 7.5:1 compression -block drilled and tapped to take M12 bolts -OE Thema turbo headgasket -Mildly ported argenta head with 44mm intakes/38mm ex. -130TC cams 10.03mm lift approx 276 deg. duration -VX blower (1130cc) -48IDA carb -Programmable Megajolt/Ford EDIS ignition system (no distributor) -1m long 4-1 extractors -Custom steel flywheel with integral ring gear ~5kg - 6 puck solid centre clutch with uprated pressure plate to 2100lbs -131 gearbox -132 disc brake diff (removable 3rd member type, i think this is the same as a 125 diff?) ~ 7" ring gear flywheel and clutch

criz = crown, lol so mean, howd you happen to find this? I know that, I was meaning the car - have not seen this shape before. also I know my grammar is terrible but I can't seem to do anything about it