Testament

old smoky phil

thats why you check everything is round and the right sizes then install the crank and turn it to see that it turns free with no tight spots could even put a dti on it, but that will probably just tell you that the factory crank machining is a littel shonky and make you go crazy because you dont actually know what an allowable number for that is. also he said the caps are all numbered so they wont be in the wrong place. 98% chance the 1980's nissan maching is probably good enough that either set works fine ultimately. it's not some silly old british engine where everything was fitted and hand machined or a flimsy american v8 cathedral with thin bendy walls everywhere

if the crank doesn't need grinding and you already have the bearings id measure and trial fit both sets of caps with the crank and see if one is tight. In reality cranks flex all over the show in operation so if the clearances are right so the correct oiling happens and it turns freely then I would be satisfied it was sufficiently aligned unless you know it's a type of motor that is very particular in that respect for some actual factually documented reason.

bolt them up and measure the diameters at multiple angles on each bearing and look very carefully for how well they match up I guess. if they measure up right and look right then it's probably ok. the other one is bolt it all up with bearings and crank in there and it should turn over nicely/not bind up anywhere. how worried are you about the motor?

TBH i've only heard good things about the taupo guy from friends who have used him for certs and I found him helpful when I have spoken with him. I expect if you talk to him respectfully like an adult and listen to him and dont turn up in a flatpeak you might be ok provided the the work on the car is decent and within the rules. I think if your chassis is below 100mm you should to be above the scrub radius or whatever its called? i.e. effectively if you had no tyres the car should sit on the rims without the chassis being on the ground is my understanding. this pretty much puts you at 70+mm anyway? is that right clint? or is my brain making things up here? not sure now I do the math since most tyres are going to be near 100mm? even a 175/50 is 87.5mm sidewall? or is the squash of the tyre against the road taken in to account?

you mean it only wants to be a showpiece!

I would agree that swapping to a lexus hardly seems worthwhile if the 289 works well. and there are far more things you could do to the 289 than a lexus if you decide what it currently has isnt enough.

The LS motors can be pretty sweet on Gas for what they are installed in, main thing is the weight of what you are moving around. a bongo van full of junk could be rather heavy and if you are having to stomp that gas pedal to move it all the time the smaller engine will still use alot of gas.

3d print a 4bbl manifold and run an ultra dominator on a 6cyl or you're a wuss

use 6 SU's and sign a pact with the devil at the crossroads then remain stuck at the crossroads forver because 6 su's

heck you can buy an LS for $3k

I dunno "boss copy" could mean all sorts of things old barrys who do silly things like that. how certain are you that they are actually Cleveland heads even? some guy might have put a fancy carb and aircleaner and painted the motor blue and thats it. and +1 to the likelyhood of wonky aussie casting numbers on such motors in this country. Id say anywhere from $1500 to $3000 for the motor and and box together would be a reasonable price range just depends how long you mind waiting for it to move if you are going to sell it. without having certain info on the cam, pistons heads etc. its going to be hard to ask more than $3k in my mind. I let my unknown "289" (might have even been a poos 255/worst v8 ford ever made we really could not tell from the casting numbers) and c4 go for $750 but that was to a good friend so he did get a deal

no, its just all of the fuel all of the time

They dont need a faraday cage, they just need to goto the wops. Or somewhere with an underground concrete carpark also may work. This said the GPS thing does seem a good option in general. Otherwise own weird unfashionable vehicles

That was mech injection on the 283

also note the eaton ratings are cubic inches per revolution so M62 is ~1000cc M90 ~1500cc M112 ~1900cc M122 ~2000cc

Ebay supercharger from a ford thunderbird or some buicks and some other things Eaton M62 or Eaton M90 preferably. the newer the better. the newer ones have twisted lobes and teflon coatings and things/they got better and better/more efficient capable of higher boosts as the years went on. or if you are silly a m112 or m122 off a cobra

aluminium handrail tube? use old bearing races or taper pins or turn up some bar stock into a taper whatever you have in a press to flare the ends

Its also a different kettle of fish on a big rim small sidewall to a small rim big sidewall tyre.

Gt35 is too small unless its a 1600 dave motor 75mm comp wheel golden bullets for everything.

Couches (plural) in back of dually please

ms paint on phone seemed too hard but i think this will do once you are on the road to tairua just follow that north until you get to coroglen pub (its immediately after a one way bridge) and turn left up that road there I think then somewhere up there

Not that well but it's not too hard, basically you turn right at the roundabout in matamata and go down the main street keep going until another round about about 1km down with a blue petrol station (can't remember if gull or Mobil). Turn left on to tower rd at the round about then follow tour nose to te aroha keeping the kaimais on your right. I think you just go straight until you come to the end of that road and turn right. When you get to te aroha you sort of do a zig zag and go over the river turn left onto the main st. Then about 10ish km north out of te aroha you turn left over a bridge probably a sign that says morrinsville or awaiti. Over the bridge then take the first right on to awaiti rd at the end of that you turn left (continue straight) on sh2 for about 2km/a couple of straights then on a left hand bend there will be a sign saying coromandel and a turninf bay thing so you turn right to continue straight and take that and goto to the end of that rd. Comes out just before the bridge at kopu turn right over the bridge and follow the signs for tairua.Easy as pie. Basically drive along parallel to the kaimais worst case you end up going through paeroa which is about the same distance just curvier

I cut a 1/2" socket extension in half and welded it to the locknut, then easy to get off with powerbar/rattle gun etc. then cut cut it off the locknut and welded it to the next one etc.

FYI this is quite a good route to take from the south up to thames, basically getting off the main highways at matamata and going along nice straight flat country roads with no traffic https://www.google.co.nz/maps/dir/Taupo/Coroglen+Tavern,+State+Highway+25,+Whitianga/@-37.4286412,175.7000955,10z/data=!4m24!4m23!1m15!1m1!1s0x6d6bef77144b165b:0x500ef6143a309e0!2m2!1d176.0702098!2d-38.6856924!3m4!1m2!1d175.8150583!2d-37.7789676!3s0x6d6db103bdfb87c5:0x1300ef610696bef0!3m4!1m2!1d175.7963333!2d-37.6839058!3s0x6d6dbb03a9c1a3a9:0x1300ef6106e75050!1m5!1m1!1s0x6d7266d6db2992b5:0x24598990a81d2e13!2m2!1d175.691632!2d-36.92381!3e0?hl=en if you want more uppy/downy/side to side go accross to the kaimai side of the river/paeroa way