Testament

quick update re did a bunch of things no one would notice and installed a water injection and still didn't make a proper tune returned this to nats did some nats nanging/banging/popping/farting bunged the exhaust on the way back form nats then fixed it betterer Had a brainwave during/on way back from nats as to cause of terrible misfires above 4000rpm, general shit running, and smell of excessive unburnt fuel out the exhaust this being that the excessively large (1000cc) injectors can inject the full amount of fuel in a very short period - such that the period of intake/exhaust valve overlap is quite a significant amount of that injection event even at 7000rpm, full load, let alone at lower rpm and lower loads. basically if the fuel gets injected at the wrong time a heap of it fucks off straight into the exhaust. so did some more research into this and found some some stuff like this then drew up my own version with numbers for the actual cam timing in my engine. changed my injector pairing and injection timing such that half the fuel for each cylinder is injected prior to intake valve opening and the other half is injected after exhaust valve closing but still while the intake valve is open. presto no more misfire over 4000rpm and things running much better. still need to tune more now, but everything is now finally making sense so its a lot more straightforward than trying to do so while going round in circles trying to figure out strange misfires, pops and bangs.

only took another year and a half to get all barred up about this again

you can use a megasquirt/microsquirt unit as a standalone auto controller instead of ecu. tis one option, althought I am sure there are others. another one is XJ jeeps have a separate controller also, and the jeep AW4 is actually just an a340. Maybe ZJ Grand Cherokees as well but not certain. would look for 1992-1996 obd1 spec more likely to be separate tcu box and simpler setup. what supplies the factory crown speedo signal? must be something on the gearbox output shaft already surely?

not really it has to do with the linearity of the valve type and its flow coefficient. a thin bladed butterfly is really not linear at all since the thin blade doesn't really obstruct flow very much until its about 1/3 closed and at the other end you get small changes in butterfly angle making massive changes in flow area. Going to a smaller valve will mean the first third will have a more immediate impact on the flow but the profile of that effect wont actually be linear. hence why OEM 90% of throttles have bell crank throttle pulls to get a mostly linear pedal effect matched to the throttle sizing and valve coefficient #imbeingpedantichere

You would have to ask Ky about that...............

I would bet CVs will probably be ok if you have just a very small amount of mechanical sympathy and keep the wheels straightish when wanging over rocks at 9000rpm or ease back to 8000rpm if you have to saw at the wheel with it locked. Most of the bad rap stuff gets in 4x4 land is from people just being total mindless apes in 2000+kg steel duplo blocks. your truck must be pretty light by comparison so just be a small minded ape rather than completely mindless and it will be all good plus a bunch of bananas.

Im imagining Sheepers on his roof

large N/A cams are a-ok, just need to dial in some more lobe separation by advancing the inlet a few degrees - which is legit as you have boost you can open the inlet sooner and by doing so reduce the overlap where inlet charge gets blown through to the exhaust. and being supercharged you still have bundles of torque so shifting the powerband higher in the rev range doesn't have anywhere near the negative effects on driveability of putting the same wildness of cams in an n/a motor am sure mr breeze can chime in with a more precise suggestion of cam timing to try if the cam specs are available.

sorry cant help there ^ can only add another silly question anyone know of people/companies good at making sweet coiled tube things? looking to make some heilical coils of 1/2" stainless tubing to a designed pitch and length

Youshop is all good. as said can be a little slower but it varies wildly like most oversea shipping. It is a little more work since you have to check in when it arrives at their usa warehouse and input the item value and tell them to send it on. you need to check generally esp with summit, often the cheaper summit shipping is the same cost as youshop and it just turns up. but other times summit sends you a giant box of American air.

steve needs a kick photobucket is rubbish ray cant see shit

http://nz.rs-online.com/web/c/automation-control-gear/sensors-transducers/hall-effect-sensors/?sort-by=P_breakPrice1&sort-order=asc&rpp=100&pn=1 not VR sensors, but there are 101 mounting styles of hall effects you could probably make work. We have used the threaded body cherry brand ones on a few things and they work sweet.

some real serious machining gear there - where is that/what type of gear is it?

plan to get a full tank of fuel in taihape and meet at brown sugar café for a relaxing lunch if your in

keen to go a much worse and longer way tbh

depends on the setup how much lift pump you need. if you return the fuel from the rail to the main tank it needs to flow more than the high pressure pump or the surge tank will go empty and the high pressure pump will be continuously cavitating as it only gets as much as the lift pump can pump in. not good. if you return from the rail to the surge tank then the lift pump only needs to flow as much as your max injector flow or you may get away with even less depending on the use of the car. if you are never doing sick 11s for minutes at a time the volume of the surge tank will keep you going for [tank volume/max combined injector flow]minutes. generally you can return to the surge tank if your lift pump has plenty of headroom above your normal fuel flow (which it should at idle/low load unless you have a total pinner lift pump), and your surge tank isn't enormous as it will exchange the volume of fuel in the surge tank with fuel from the tank surge tank volume/(lift pump flow - avg idle low load fuel flow) = time to exchange volume of surge tank

The thing with the old 044 is they are still one of the best when it comes to really high boost levels, pretty well most of the newer and cheaper pumps drop off flow a lot more as the 044 will keep chugging away without dropping much flow rate at 100psi which is great if you are running 58psi fuel pressure and 40psi of boost or using fuel supply lines of marginal sizes and having significant pressure drop from the pump outlet to the fuel rail. horses for courses etc. but the walbro should be totally fine in this case

china 044,/walbro/deatshwerks/bosch 040 etc. all of them will do the job don't worry about too much fuel that would not be an issue with any of these - main thing as al says is finding one that is a direct fit. I would be surprised if you couldn't find that out with a quick search on some aussie vl forums to find out what P/N walbro bosch or china special will do the trick nicely.

provided you have the declaration papers for dereg in the USA/clean title I don't think it matters when it came into the country if it has never been in the system here, it's not something I expect they track since until you goto vin/reg it might as well be for parts or private road use. What will matter is what GVM it has which depends on the exact model for those. if it puts it in commercial territory you have to get it converted regardless.

for reference see video below. regarding rings it's pretty ghetto what you are suggesting, have you looked on ebay/rockauto/amazon it is surprising where some of this stuff turns up esp. rockauto has some funky shit if you look through all the models that might have that size piston. just can be a little tedious.

https://www.google.co.nz/?gws_rd=ssl#q=fletcher+steel+auckland https://www.google.co.nz/?gws_rd=ssl#q=steel+and+tube+auckland https://www.hja.co.nz/contact/ otherwise look for engineering/fab/construction businesses in your area maybe morningside/penrose/mt wellington/onehunga shouldn't be hard to get

if the bearings are in spec for the journal and show no signs of damage swapping the bearings is not going to achieve anything. journal bearings just work if the clearances are right and the oil system is good i.e. adequate pressure and flow and temperature acceptable then metal is not touching metal and everything goes on forever providing the oil is kept happy. if there is detonation or something that causes metal on metal a new bearing will be ruined just as much as a perfectly good used one.

drill and tap holes in pulley to mount trigger wheel on? print out template to size, mark and grind notches directly into pulley?

6x different carbs for bonus wizard points

Bilstein Coilovers for a euro car that are only adjustable from 30mm to 50mm drop (lowest point still >100mmm), come with matched springs and TUV Certification documentation. Would you still need a cert just because they are adjustable, when you could fit fixed springs with the same or more drop and not need one? reading the info sheet tells me yes still need a cert, my engineer brain tells me this is no different to fixed springs as everything is still within factory suspension travel range and has an official bilstein document that this setup is safe.